Moodles2

Can't use a non-stock AFM with a stock ECU. It may idle but it will run super rich because of the Z32 afm + stock ecu pairing, and probably fouled your plugs. May be worth checking if your Z32 is an actual genuine unit not a chinese copy.

Most bikes have a wet clutch, what this means is the clutch shares the engine oil. Bike oils don't have any friction modifiers in them, otherwise if you put normal car oil in the clutch would be too slippery and never grip.

I believe the Stagea RB25DET is the cheapest/easiesst option, as it should mate up to your existing gearbox.

I think the lesson learnt here, is when spending so much money on the injectors themselves, is to spend that extra $40ish for a new set of genuine injector o-rings/seats from Nissan.

There's the option of the Apexi PFC D-Jetro

I agree with the above, stop driving it because you are clueless. I see 2 things happening. Scenario 1, the fuel is leaking in the enginebay and starts a fire, possibly a write-off situation. Scenario 2, the engine is being starved of fuel and running lean, the engine will run super hot and throw a bearing(s), melt pistons & valves, crack the piston rings, break the conrods etc, resulting in a rebuild that is going to cost 2k+.

Don't expect a tune to magically fix existing problems, you should only be getting it tuned when it's running perfectly. I've bolded what the problem most likely is.

Without a timing light you could use a permanent texta and just outline the screws on the CAS, putting back on should be as simple as using those lining marks. It could be the CAS itself making the noise too, when taken off the stalk should freely spin with no resistance, if there is resistance then it's dying (if it's a mitsubishi type Ive been told they are repairable).

If fuel is absolutely pissing out at the injector (but we don't know where yet), it's possible fuel can get inside the injector plug and start a spark that will ignite the fuel in the enginebay.

R32s have turbos with bush bearings, because of that bearing type they're pretty much gorged with oil so much more likely to have your oil choking inside the turbo than say a ball bearing setup (which R33's and beyond got).

No point revving the RB26 past peak power @ 6800rpm.

About 12psi with restrictor still in place, 14.7psi with it removed.

Did you re-use the old injector o-rings/seats or did you put new ones in?

All SC tests prove is, if I ever run out of grease, I can turn to a bottle of royal purple to grease up my garage door.

Noticeably heavier, but at least you have 2 or 3 points of adjust-ability. But yes I got it mixed up, smaller up front and bigger up back not what I originally posted.

1 turbo always has to come off (cant remember if its the front or the back one, most likely the back) to do the dumps. But bear in mind other people have proved the R32 stock dumps can support 350kw.

The thing about boost controllers is they can't use the factory manifold source as is it is already bled, always have to blank that source off and run a new hose from another (non-bled) source on the plenum. If you use the factory boost solenoid with the EBC's manifold source, you will only see 10psi (actuator pressure), not the full 14.7psi you would see with the restrictor removed and using that hose that was connected to the bled source.

Oh I guess using a test that was designed for heavy liquids such as grease, and sometimes gear oils, not engine oils. It pisses me off that people are still reading that stupid street commodores test. This quote by a Red Line rep sums it up about that Timken test (http://forums.noria.com/eve/forums/a/tpc/f/616604995/m/8381065241): "You can take the nastiest oil on the market, add friction modifier to it and it will out-perform the best oil on the market. If you add friction modifier to a GL1 oil in this falex test you can make it exceed the results for a GL5 oil. Most general use oils contain friction modifiers to a greater or lesser degree depending on the recipe the oil manufacturer is using that particular day."

The point of swaybars is to balance the handling so it neither favors understeer or oversteer, since the GTRs are nose heavy (like a FWD) they benefit from a thicker (or stiffer setting if adjustable) swaybar up front and a smaller swaybar (or softer setting if adjustable) up back. But GTR swaybars are pretty decent in my opinion (Whiteline/Selby adj. bars weigh a tonne since they are solid bars, completely up to you if you want to add that weight), you can dial in the balance by adjusting the damper settings on your coilovers (it's what I do) having different setting front and back. Stock AFMs only support about 300kw, but please search on this subject as I don't want to repeat info I've already posted time after time in other threads.

775hp theoretical as a pair, 750hp in the real world

I'd take a genuine Nissan belt over either of them.

CV joint, wheel bearing. All I can think of at the moment.

Safer to pull the front shaft whenever you want to go "drifiting", though you made a poor choice of car to do drifting with.

UAS make some that attach to the caster rods and redirect air to the calipers nismo.com.au , I run them on my 32 GTR

PE might be Power Enterprise, it does look like a Denso injector. It's definitely not a Denso 1000cc injector as the body is silver on them unless this was painted black? A denso 1000cc injector has a silver body, green tip and blue plug and is twin spray. If it's all black it's most likely a Siemens Deka injector