Moodles2

NewKleer on here makes these: http://www.ecutalk.com/consultlcd.aspx they double as a consult cable too

If you have stock ECU/Nistune, give the ECU a reset, disconnect one of the battery terminals, pump the brake pedal to discharge what's left and see if it still does this after the reset.

If you want to improve pedal feel, get a brake cylinder stopper, it stops it from flexing away from the firewall and decrease pedal travel slightly (R32's is a common thing)

If you have Nistune, I'll tell you how to set your rev limiter to 1500rpm.. i'll do this for free.

When highflowing an injector, cc doesn't really matter awhole lot, it's the spray pattern that matters. Do you want a fine mist or is a leaky tap that flows 800cc

People running E85, what do you do for O2 feedback? Is the narrowband O2 sensor(s) useful at all since stoich is different for E85 where the sensors would be expecting normal pump fuel?

Never heard of them, if you are willing to be a guinea pig and test it on your skyline, by all means.

I think it's just a setting on the PFC, it's probably been set by the tuner to flash when it reaches say 25 knock.

Try the forum sponsor Kudos Motorsports, they've been the cheapest I've found.

Stock frontpipie is 2x 50mm in and 1x 60mm out

It's possible you hit 10psi during a cold night, were the day(s) hot when you were hitting only 8psi?

ATTESSA resourvior is In the boot, bottom right corner. There will be 4 plastic screws holding the piece of boot trim, it's behind that.

When the aircon is turned on, the AAC opens up. The AAC probably needs a good cleanout as it could be letting in too much, or not enough air in.

Genuine Toyota fluid, Supra has the same 6 speed Getrag (V160).. it's recommended to use the Toyota V160 fluid (http://www.chtoyota.com.au/Parts/?Page=Parts lists is as $43 per 1l), the Getrag box takes automatic transmission fluid, you could if you really wanted to and put aftermarket fluid, just make sure it's a ATF fluid not a gear oil. And stay away from Redline, it apparently has something in it that eats away at one of the seals.

I remember someone at a Mallala trackday kept having his silicone hoses (the lower one) blowing off on at least 2 seperate occasions (autobahn888 ones iirc) no matter how hard they were clamped down, so it would seem silicone hose might be harder to clamp down due to it's slipperyness, probably not a good combo with a higher rated cap

R34 GTR stockers are ball bearing, R32 & R33 GTR stockers are journal/thrust bearing not to mention an outdated design compared to the R34 stockers, they will be laggy as.. and at the price that seller is asking, do yourself a favor and buy a pair of genuine -7's And remember these are "N1 spec" not actually N1 turbos at all, so they're possibly worse than genuine N1 turbos

It's a bad thing because pressure is pressure, rubber expands and (and overtime will swell) under pressure.. it can only expand so much until the least path of resistance is the area where the hose is physically clamped to the cooling system which forces the hose to blow off (even if the hoses are really clamped down, the next path of least resistance is the hose bursting), and from first hand experience at the track it's always the lower hose which is in a pig of a location with GTRs (R32s at least), you're not going to be able to reconnect it with the enginebay still hot, even with it cool it's still a difficult job with everything else in the way. Also because hoses decay from the inside out, outside observations are useless. The factory OE rad cap is designed around the fact that (1.2bar for turbo apps, alittle under 1bar for N/A apps) this pressure is safe for the hoses to be securely clamped down.

32 GTR is titania, 33 GTR is zirconia

As far as I understand it, the cat body compensates for the internal volume the castrate would normally take up.. take away the castrate the extra space inside the body creates areas of turbulence affecting exhaust flow that could make the gutted out cat worse than a normal working cat.

The rim could be rubbing on the caster arm, take off the wheel and check behind the rim.. and while you are there check for evident rubbing on the suspension .. you could probably ignore this if you are running stock GTS-T rims.

Just a word of advice.. only toggle the switch while stationary, or better yet while the engine is off.. don't do it while in motion.

Should bolt on no problems as the BNR32 VSpec comes with Brembos standard, Brembos use different lines so it's unlikely you can reuse your existing S/S lines that suit your current Sumitomo calipers

Headlight switch on the dash might have dirty contacts

Pictures will help, is it rust or just rust stains? If it's just rust stains you could probably just use baking soda or sandpaper it off Before starting, you will want oil + filter change, pour alittle engine oil into each spark plug hole to lubricate the top of the pistons, also disconnect the CAS so the engine turns but doesn't fire to build up oil pressure before actually starting it.

Find out exactly the specs of the cams are, as they don't add power, but shift the power up higher in the revs which is why you are seeing no low to mid-end power, great for track driving... not so for daily driving. You could dial in the adj. gears to help bring the turbos on earlier but need a dyno to confirm the changes.