Moodles2

Spooling noise could be an exhaust leak, anything from the exhaust manifold gasket to broken studs/nuts relating to the turbo. As for the hillstart thing, could be a slipping clutch or intake related (dirty/bad AFM, intake manifold gasket leak etc) As for mis-firing, could be the ignitor (if it's the series that doesn't have the ignitors built into each coil), though they usually work fine when cold, it's not until they're warm they start causing problems.

For starters Nulon is not a full synthetic. Motul is the way to go, 8100 X-Cess 5w-40 or the new one which is 10w-40, both proper full synthetics.

It's not uncommon to find the factory fitted pump still on RBs that haven't been looked after.. best to take care of this asap before the pump seizes (or at least rule it out).

Where do you plan to mount it? Boostworx did my oil cooler install in my BNR32's passenger bumper air vent, a 16row Earl's core using a custom made bracket.

I went through with what I planned, dropped these off last week, got them back today. $500 all up to get all 6 pieces (2x standard exhaust manifolds, 2x tomei dumps (new style) & 2x hks gt-ss/garrett -9 turbo exhaust housings coated inside and out with high temp satin black by Ceramic Coat (division of Pacemaker headers, next door). The exhaust housings are back on the turbos, and now in the process of doing the turbo swap (ceramics out). Took lots of pictures.

Sure it's a RB25 plug? Red, white & black wires usually indicates it takes a Titania sensor (only R32 GTRs out of all the skylines had these type). While the red doubles as a heater (+) and signal reference wire (in) and white is a heater (-) whereas Zirconia sensors it doesn't matter which way both white heater wires go. If I recall correctly there's a chassis ground near the passenger strut tower (R32 GTRs at least) you could use to ground it.

If it's hot it's possible it's low on fluid and you're getting metal on metal contact

Check the actuator arm behind the climate control (I'm assuming the car has this) actually moves when changing the temperature, it could be stuck in between (dry solder joins deteriorate and crack on R32s, R33s could be the same problem)

Are you using the factory manifold source (already bled located at the back of the manifold near the clutch) or have you already run a hose to a new manifold vacuum source?

If I recall, the genuine Nissan ex. gasket is made from graphite. Graphite is supposed to have a insanely high melting point, though you would be hard pressed to get a steel exhaust gasket to melting point.

I know it may be a long shot, but were the oil restrictors replaced (blocking off VCT, or starving the lifters with a too small one) when the head was off?

Possibly the sound and feeling (through the pedal) of the master cylinder flexing away from the firewall, very common R32 problem solved with a master cylinder brace.

You have a zirconia sensor, they have 3 wires, 1 black and 2 white, both white wires are heaters so it doesn't matter which way they go. Whereas titania is different and it does matter, red wire is the heater positive (also doubles as the incoming signal wire) and white wire is the heater negative

Check for fuel stains around the injectors

Check the NSW section of this site for a trusted workshop thread, I haven't even heard of any of those 4

My question is any reason why your getting rid of the stock BOVs? I've been led to believe the GTR stock BOVs are fine for that kind of pressure and power level

The sensor wire inside the shell of course

In theory under vacuum it would run lean (unmetered air entering), under boost it would run rich (metered air escaping).. the damage done would be the unmetered air which isn't filtered

Any reason why you dumped the factory exhaust manifold for stainless ones?

The point of changing the cat is to relieve backpressure, with a freeflowing cat the exhaust velocity is maintained (where it might have been slowed down when caught in the 400cpsi) which helps helps turbo response.

2.50v is rather worrying considering narrowband is 0-1v

GT2860 what.. ? it's a lose reference to what could be many turbos, -5's, -7's, -10's.. or -9s (which are disco potatoes, the GTR specific -9 is a GT2859). If you current car is a GTR, then just use use the existing lines as long as the turbos are -5s, -7s, -9s or -10s

Denso injectors, identical

Lots of flaws. Don't bother with a fuel pressure regulator, just get the right size injectors. Again 800cc really isn't much if your strapping one of those huge turbos on, especially if you want to use E85 which uses something like 20-40% more fuel which those 800cc's wont be big enough for. Jap pumps are dropin (HKS, Nismo, Tomei), Sard I believe is just a universal pump, not a dropin whereas Bosch & Walbro require some modification and have issues with 1/4 and lower tanks etc.. N1 oil pump, do it right first time and spend the extra and get a good known pump like a Nitto or a good jap pump. Also you have to realise the oil pump is a engine out job (or dropping the subframe which is another thing altogether). While doing the pump you should put a baffle in the sump while your there (Tomei for example), even enlarged sump capacity whether the stock one is modified or its a new weld on (Trust, Hi Energy etc). Now catch can I wouldn't do personally, better off getting cam cover baffles (Mines, Hi Octane Racing etc), although unnecessary an oil/air seperator would be great to return any oil in the breathers back to the sump. Another thing with oil control, when the head is off put new oil restrictors in. Silicone hoses aren't perfect (well the cheap cooling pro ones etc), I've seen people complain on here about pinholes that develop, if possible replace with genuine Nissan rubber heater hoses. Cam gears, save yourself alot of money and get your existing stock items modified so they can be adjusted. Also have to remember a single Z32 can only support up to 500hp (theoretical, in realworld it's much lower), if using a Apexi PFC, I would use a D-Jetro at least (MAP sensor instead of MAF). But you should really choose a tuner, and once you've chosen then ask what ECU they recommend, the tune is more important than the ECU. Are PFC handcontrollers universal? no, it's a tricky thing paulr33 will probably explain.

In the case of rubber, when I was talking to my mechanic (nissan specialist), he said the difference between genuine Nissan rubber (cam seals in particular as I had him do my 100k service) and aftermarket rubber (Gates) is significant. The Nissan cam seals are nice and soft whereas the aftermarket cam seals are rock hard, I'm not saying which is better for that cam seal application (hard vs soft), just pointing out quality difference what is supposed to be the same part.