Moodles2

I imported the new HKS one (=sct_1402"]http://perfectrun.jp/src/detail.php?pid=20044&pname=STAINLESS%20STEEL%20FRONT%20PIPE&maker=HKS&maker_id=20&result_mode=qui&cbid=101&carid=101001_10101&scate_id[]=sct_1402 2*70mm to 85mm) recently. The old HKS one is 2*60 to 80mm which was discontinued ages ago

For 350kw+, its generally recommended to have 3.5" through The new HKS frontpipe has 70mm inlets and a 85mm (3.5") outlet

If going with a higher flowing pump then yes you need a bigger capacity sump, head restrictors etc (replacing with a R33 crank for the long oil drive would be recommended). read the oil control thread in it's entirety.. as for head oil drains, as far as their function.. the general consensus is they don't really work. I wouldn't risk using that balancer again if there were a oil pump failure.

Stock ECU? If so forget about BOVs altogether unless you want to purposely cause all types of problems like engine stalling, engine damage etc.

Oil and filter. Also brake fluid. That's it.

Compliance wouldn't have changed it, it's not a requirement with SEVS. As for needing to change, it's up to you.

ATTESSA (mechanical fluid actuated in R32s) and the transfer case are 2 different fluid systems. I don't see how bleeding ATTESSA will help at all with the transfer case.

R32 GTR Xfer takes 1.8litres

In my opinion, the crank collar itself (the tolerances between it and the short oil drive on the crankshaft) and how the collar is applied is more important than the pump itself. If you are going to do an engine out, you may as well get a R33 crankshaft for the long oil drive.

If it still has the factory fuel pump fitted, I would change it.

Fuel surge most likely, how much fuel was in the tank when you were experiencing this?

Suigi S6000 is 10w40. Gulf 1 is 10w60. 10w60 is great.... for tired engines with poor tolerances and/or serious blowby problems. Not something you would want to put in a RB which has 7.5w30 specified by factory (10w40 taking into fact our warmer climate). The 60 rating is nice and thick for track duty, though if the engine isn't built for it (ie. no sump mods or extensions, head restrictorss), the thickness of the oil will have trouble draining back to the sump and the engine will end up with oil starvation.

There is an issue with running the GTS4 and GTR diffs, they have different ratios.

I thought the XR6 failure rates were because of the inline filter (tiny mesh screen) that is used inside the turbo oil line, it gets clogged and starves the turbo of oil.

Sougi S6000 is a ester base (group 5) not PAO (group 4).. not to mention Gulf 1 is 10w60, which is more suitable for track usage with engine that have blowby problems.

English instructions, had to zip it up to get it under the 2mb file upload limit Installation Instructions for Triple Flow Cam Cover Baffle Plate.zip

If rain is causing problems, have you tried a water repellent like silicon spray in the affected areas?

www.nistune.com It would be cheaper if you ordered it and had someone you know who is good at micro soldering to install the daughterboard. Otherwise a workshop can do all the work of installing it and tuning it. Even with the workshop ordering it, installing and tuning it, it would still end up cheaper than buying the PFC and tuning the PFC.

Any DOT4 they're all chemically compatible

Low on brake fluid, top it up.

Ecutalk from my experience uses injector size and injector duty cycle to calculate fuel consumption. As for consumption itself, get yourself a wideband AFR kit or borrow one. Will tell you how rich is it really running.

Should be 2: http://www.rhdjapan.com/nissan-knock-sensor-30910

TPS at idle should be around 0.4 to 0.5v, any lower or higher iirc can make the ATTESSA light come on.

ARC went belly up 2 months ago

Battery relocation is a great idea actually, since it's a R32 it's still in my factory position (the drivers side front corner). I'd like to keep the accusump as close to the enginebay as possible as my oil system (cooler, lines etc) already requires ~7litres As for boot mounting the accusump, is it difficult when doing a complete oil change to do the oil inside the accusump and the line going to the boot?