Moodles2

Strange I don't remember the auto part being on the end of the post, but anyway for peace of mind and to rule it out, I would change the autobox fluid

Fan might be a restriction too at 100+

Decided with the exchange rate I'd import a accusump kit and 'T' it into my oil cooler install. I'm unsure which size one to get as yet (bigger the better) but that will come down to the restriction(s) of the mounting location. I need ideas for mounting locations.

By the description, the clutch could be slipping very badly, do the revs climb but there is no gain in speed?

Should be on the cap, DOT4 most likely

I imported mine through Jesse Streeter, otherwise I find perfectrun are usually the cheapest

http://www.turbobygarrett.com/turbobygarrett/tech_center/gt_basics.html The S is explained, I wouldnt be pairing an S and non-S

-9s is what you need to refer to them as, a long time -9s only came without actuators (which the others came with), it was only recently garrett decided to start offering actuators so came 780371-1. the 500 bit is added by garrett dealers, I know my -9s were referred to as 707160-0009 by the dealer (pretty im sure thats what my id tag said also, that or 0009 was 5009).

-9s http://www.turbobygarrett.com/turbobygarrett/catelog/Turbochargers/GT28/GT2859R_780371_1.htm with actuators http://www.turbobygarrett.com/turbobygarrett/catelog/Turbochargers/GT28/GT2859R_707160_9.htm without actuators

thicker != better. I'd take the standard cooler over a china-spec intercooler anyday

The exhaust key for the CAS might be different, nengun says there are 2 part numbers one for R32/R33 GTR and another for R34 GTR

At minimum, 110000 watts.

Go all the way to 20 degrees and pistons will hit the valves, depends on the engine and how it responds, but if you go too far adjusting it without a dyno it will be worse than 0.

Not sure where located, but the venom cats have free postage

Possibly went into "limp home mode", though the revs are usually limited to 2500rpm. It's possible the plug to the air flow meter is/had come loose.

Nissans share a common dimension what it comes to cats. R34 GTR uses Type 1, while R34 GTT uses Type 3: http://www.justjap.c...e=search&page=1 If you do go down the metal cat route, try http://www.venomexha...u/products.html as it's much cheaper (plus George has said he has skyline boltons with the right flanges)

The cooling system will still be pressurized, so the boiling point should still be above 110c

Normal high flow cats are ceramic and only 300cpsi at best, the high flow racing cats are metal and are 100-200cpsi

The engine block & internals are always hotter than the coolant, there will be a temperature differential. With the engine off, the block will slowly heat up the coolant about 5-15c but will cool off with time.

It's a simple solenoid that opens and closes, aftermarket mac valves bleed air to up boost whereas the stock solenoid opens and closes. If you were to pull the power plug on it, you would get unlimited boost.

Just disconnect the power plug, there is no reason to keep using the factory solenoid. You can re-use the actuator line the factory setup uses, but you can't re-use the intake manifold line as it's from an already bled location. TB's = throttle bodies. You will need to blank off the factory intake manifold line, and run a new one. One of the lines going into the factory solenoid has a restrictor inside the hose (indicated by a yellow band), if this is the factory wastegate line (I can't remember which is which), then you will need to remove that restrictor or cut off that piece of hose as it will interfere with the EBC. If the yellow band is on the intake manifold hose, don't bother.

Standard solenoid uses 2 lines, Intake Manifold source and Wastegate actuator source, I can't remember which one is which, but with the engine running one of those lines will have vacuum while idling, that will be the intake manifold line (which runs to the back of the plenum near the clutch, but it's not an ideal intake manifold pressure source since it's already being bled, it's best to run another line for the intake manifold after the TB's) . Pressure source is different from the intake manifold, pressure source can be T'd off at the stock boost map sensor (black box on the firewall near the brake master cylinder) which runs after the balance tube and the fuel pressure regulator (some people T off at the regulator as it will be slightly quicker to read pressure changes). The nipple on the back is probably used to bled air and doesn't need to be connected to anything, the stock solenoid is a different type of solenoid as it blocks the line whereas aftermarket solenoids (mac valves) bleed air instead.

Can't say for certain which turbo they are without pictures, it can be any of these (but GT25 housing and 0.6 compressor AR narrows it down to -5's or -10s): http://homepage.ntlworld.com/tbroom/Turbos.htm

Check Justjap's website, they have Catco & Xforce boltons

most likely -5's as -7s and -9s have 0.42 AR front housings, they will make 290kw at 14 or so psi in a very laggy way. -7s and -9s are a better choice for that power target.