Moodles2

BeeR limiters are ignition cuts (is it different to a spark cut?), I was wrong about the stock ECU as I'm pretty sure now that's a fuel cut

On the cheap you could try taking them to someone with a jewelry ultrasonic cleaner, though I'm not sure how effective they would be on injectors. Profesionally done they use a proper ultrasonic cleaning bench designed for injectors and have them flow tested and even balanced if the person is good. As far as bottles of injector cleaner go my experience and people who I've talked to who work in the auto trade say they don't do anything significant for their price (some bottle cleaners arent O2 sensor safe for example). I think getting injectors done professionally is pretty cheap when you do the labour yourself and R&R them, I vagually remember a mobile guy out in WA that people on here have sent their injectors interstate as even with postage its still cheaper than people in their own state.

All I can suggest is take the battery terminals off and give the terminals and the terminal posts on the battery a good wirebushing.

I vagually recall the mirrors other direction is controlled by reversing the polarity via the switch, though it may have been Toyota mirrors

That's assuming it hasn't been worn out and single spinning already (which from what I've read viscous LSDs tend to turn into quicker), a GTR mechanical LSD I think bolts straight on but im not sure

If the limiter is set low to like 7200rpm, is it the ignition cut (i believe that's the method the stock ecu/nistune) itself that puts the stress on the pump gears?

Check the Perth setion, should have a sticky with trusted workshops

Kudos has what your after, though alittle pricey in my opinion: http://www.kudosmotorsports.com/catalog/nissan-oring-seal-fuel-injectors-genuine-nissan-skyline-rb20-rb25-p-983.html

Was the car tuned on the dodgy CAS by any chance, is it possible the tuner tried to tune around it?

Nissan genuine is the best way to go, I prefer that to Gates (noisy belt syndrome, seems hit and miss based on installer)

Try switching the MAFs around, see if the same MAF does it in the other's spot. While you are at it, use some contact cleaner/MAF cleaner on the air sensor in each. One MAF might be dirtier than the other. Another explanation is if you still have ceramic turbos, one might have chips in the exhaust wheel and not performing optimally while the good turbo is doing more work

Brand new Garrett -9's. I counted 6 nuts that look like they secure the exhaust housing on, is it just a matter of undoing them and the ex housing just slides off? Also when I pull them apart, do I need to pay special attention to putting the exhaust housing back on the turbo it was taken off, or shouldn't it matter as they're twins?

What's the process involved in taking the turbo apart so the exhaust housing can be coated? is it a no brainer thing I cna do at home or something best left to a turbo expert

Factory (cast iron) GTR exhaust manifold (R32, R33, R34), or factory N1 one. PM me.

I should explain first, I'm putting new turbos on. But here is the tricky part, I'm ceramic coating the turbo housings, dumps and stock manifold. The problem is the manifold is still attached and makes organising the coating on it difficult. What I want to do is swap/borrow your factory manifold, get it coated, put it on my GTR, then I would give you my factory manifold (it's unmodified)

Smaller, less surface area. If you need a reference scroll down to the TC section: http://sites.google.com/site/tyndago/gt-rattesainfrormation

+7 on the stock gauge is actually 13.2psi if your using that as a reference, but otherwise if the hoses are simply joined together, you should see 10psi

It's going to crap itself when it reaches approx 280kw with those injectors

Car needs to be put into base idle mode when checking the timing, either doing it through CONSULT software (ecutalk etc).. I'm not sure if unplugging the TPS or unplugging some other related thing will put it into base idle mode as well.

It's kinda a downgrade, transfer case wise, the R32/R33 transfer-case has a much wider chain vs the R34 unit has

It's been looked after well, no expenses spared, never boosted, never thrashed, hasn't been drifted into a gutter, driven sensibly, never part of illegal street and/or drag racing, serviced regularly and everything about the engine condition is 100% correct, the list goes on.... this would all be true in the mirror universe.

It would be a good idea to change the belt as belts deteriorate with age even without use, you might as well get yourself a timing belt kit and do the tensioner (and it's spring) & idler bearings, crank & cam seals while your there.. the water pump I would do too if it's still the factory fitted one

Which gear oils did you try before the Tomei one?

The Nismo injectors are supposed to have the best spray patterns out of the direct bolton injectors, but my research into Sard 700s (have a pair I'm waiting to be put in) I found even with the single port people report they idle really well

Factory ECU? Probably R&R (rich & reteard)