Moodles2

Cigarette lighter is a easy way to get power for boost controllers, gauges etc, done wrong can be a result you've got there.

I'm in the market for a aftermarket oil pressure gauge, should i look for one with a mechanical sender or a electric sender? and is there any cheap gauges that will do the job (and not be flashy expensive like Defi)

If the red light is on (we call it the idiot light) and it's reading 0 (range of 0 to 8 kg/cm2), it should be around 6 on initial startup dropping down to 2. The idiot light and the gauge are 2 different systems, if both are lit/reading 0 then get an aftermarket oil pressure gauge (with it's own sender) asap to confirm the oil pump is dead or not (don't even bother starting it until you've confirmed this or not).

10w40 Motul Turbolight (semi-synth) is base level oil for RBs, if it's purely a street driven car then that's what I would recommend. Changing oil, RB is no different to other engines, oil sump plug is on the drivers side, the tricky part is changing the oil filter it's in a difficult spot depending how big yours hands are.

Could the castrate inside the cat converter have been dislodged from it's body?

These changes are best done on the dyno to actually confirm the changes aren't causing harm, and making sure with each change you make sure every fastener on both in&ex cam gears are locked down or pistons will be meeting the valves.

Was ATF fluid used when you changed the fluid?

http://www.justjap.com/store/product.php?productid=17818&cat=&page=3

What did you use (if you did) in the transfer case when you changed the fluid out? I've read that when you don't use the genuine Matic D fluid in the transfer case, the clutch packs can be damaged.

R32 GTR draws air underneath through the headlight area, R33 GTR draws air over the radiator via a snorkel

The fact your trying to use the ECU to set the base timing is laughable, the ECU physically has no way of knowing the base timing

Technically there is 2 restrictors (in BNR32s at least), 1 by the solenoid in the rubber hose indicated yellow band near the solenoid and another that is part of the wastegate hardpiping that can only be bypassed with new hoses. As for stability under 16psi it's most likely the EBC's gain setting is way to high as the gain was likely dialed in for 16psi.

I think late R34 GTRs have a slightly larger diameter front rotor, or was that the rear?

Sougi is very deceptive, it looks like regular $5 XMP (XTR whatever) shite. I've been running Sougi S6000 full synth in my GTR for acouple weeks and for all intents and purposes it feels like just like my old oil (Motul X-Cess 5w-40) but interested to see the condition of the oil is (compared to the Motul changes) when it comes to changing the oil.

If you do the frontpipe take your time, make sure to do it right with decent tools because if you round off those rusty nuts your in alittle trouble

Taking the battery terminal off resets the error codes on a stock ECU.

One turbo bolts onto a RB26DETT, the other bolts onto a SR20DET. see if you can spot the difference....

Transfer case I would only use the genuine Nissan Matic D, it's been suggested that's the recommendation of jap tuning houses as well. Otherwise powersteering & HICAS just use a fluid that comforms to Matic D

Pretty sure those power figures for clutches are at the flywheel not the wheels

Xforce Vs. Catco, I would choose the Catco one just because it would pass an emissions test while the Xforce wouldn't.

Do you have the factory shroud on the radiator? Thermostat might not be opening all the way (especially if it's some cheap trident one). By clutch fan do you mean the factory viscous fan? I would throw a new radiator cap at it, it's strange that coolant would boil at 110c which is why I suspect it. We know water (ordinary tap water by itself) boils at 100c at atmospheric pressure, for every 0.1 bar of pressure the cooling system is under, the boiling point raises by approx 3 degrees C, 1.2 bar cap would be ~136c while a 0.8 bar cap would be ~124c. Coolant has a higher point than pure water and is dependent on the mix ratio, if coolant is indeed being boiled at 110c it would seem the current rad cap is holding little to no pressure.

Did you make sure the CAS mated up the keys on the CAS optical sensor and the one on the end of the exhaust camshaft? Probably something very basic, are you sure the CAS plug is connected?

My knowledge about Skyline lights is limited, if they are the dual filament type, it's possible the low beam filament have been burnt out (though would be strange having them both left and right at the same time)

Since the catback is 3.5", if the frontpipe is also 3.5" I would look at getting a cat with 3.5" ends. I would drop the catback or the frontpipe and measure the inlet or the outlet of the cat, if it's 2.5" like most compliance cats then I would replace it, if it's 3" it might already be a hi-flow cat (ceramic type) If the frontpipe is 3", then I would look at a Catco ceramic-castrate type bolton for <300kw (these will pass emissions tests): http://www.justjap.com/store/product.php?productid=18066&cat=&page=1 , for 300kw+ I would probably go with a 100 cell metal castrate like the Venom you listed and get flanges welded on them.

It could be gutted who knows, best to drop the catback or the frontpipe and shine a torch through, it could even be a 2.5" cat.. or it could even be a de-cat with a heatshield to disguise it, really should take it off.