Moodles2

Max will be 500hp, it's the max theoretical resolution of 1x Z32 AFM

Sure the exhaust wheel is still on the turbo?

ECU is the problem imo, dwell time could be incorrect causing the ignitor to overheat/fail

Is this just changing a clutch, or is it the labour you can expect to go from a factory single to a twin plate?

It's been said by others that teflon tape turns to jelly when it comes in contact with oil, and tends to get caught into the turb oil lines and blocking oil supply to the turbo.

Mine's ECUs are stock ECUs with a modified basemap, usually this basemap is generic but it could be tuned specifically for one of Mine's customers (bigger injectors, Z32 ECU, bigger turbo, tuned lean via EGTs not AFRs etc.). You have pretty much just wasted your money for a generic basemap, and have actually put your engine in jeopardy if it's a specific tune. Sell it, buy a nistunable Z32 ecu (for VCT control) and tune it properly, forget the fuel pump that's the least of your worries.

Don't use brake cleaner, either use proper contact/MAF cleaner or don't do it at all.

Blue smoke is bad, valves seals or piston rings need replacing.

I had the same problem with my motorbike's sump plug, I tried everything but managed to get it using vice grips + hammer.. had part was getting those vice grips on super tight. In trying everything, if the vice grips didn't work I was willing to sacrifice a ring spanner by welding it to the sump plug

300V is probably overkill for a daily at stock power, can't get it in 10w30 without mixing anyway. Maybe if it had 300kw+ on the street, or was taken to the track I would spend the premium for 300v. 4100 turbolight (10w40 semi-synth) would be more than suitable if it's a stock rb25det, next step would be 8100 (full-synth) x-max (10w40) or x-cess (5w40), then 300v (full synth double ester)

On the subject of buying tomei from the US, I got my Tomei RB26 dumps (new lost-wax type) for $540ish delivered when aud and usd was 1:1, alot cheaper than sourcing them from japan

List of things I can think of that could affect economy, driver, dead o2 sensor, worn out spark plugs (especially if copper ones), leaking fuel injector (internally or externally), leak in the fuel system (lines etc), borderline flat tyres, faulty coolant temp sensor (ECU stuck in open loop mode), dirty AFM.. and possibly using a completely stupidly thick oil like 20w60.

Change it anyway, if that doesn't solve it then check into other things

As long as it's a RWD RB25, otherwise you're filling up the transfer case.

Looking for forward to this, I have 2 and abit bottles of S6000 left

If using R34 dumps, you need 2 of these: http://www.justjap.com/store/product.php?productid=18587&cat=&page=1 R32 (titania) O2 sensors are 12mm thread, R33/R34 (zirconia) have 18mm thread

Get a stock ECU in there, who knows what that modified ECU is doing... and if it was even tuned for that car or just brought off ebay and whacked in there.

If low boost (stock 6-8psi) doesn't trigger it but 12psi does, I would be looking at the intake & intercooling piping. Especially If the pipes were alittle oily (which is normal without a catchcan) and not wiped down when they were taken off and put back on. Different things you can do like smoke tests, pressurizing the air intake etc to find it. Although reading wolverine's post, snapped exhaust manifold studs are more likely though

On R32's it's almost always the servo actuator that controls the door which controls whether cold or hot air comes in, the dry solder joints crack and the servo gets stuck in whatever last position it was when it was still working.

Really zoom in on the graph, 2.8l + Poncams.. I wouldnt exactly call a 2.8l stroker kit w/ cams supporting mods... and if it took that engine to spool them to there at 4000-4500rpm.. then I would be alittle worried.

Not sure exactly what we're talking about, but isn't it a check valve that keeps fuel pressurized so the instant the engine is cranked there is fuel versus not having it and having to crank for abit longer?

Most important I would look out for is a stock oil pump still fitted (short oil drive on the crank), unless you have plans to take the engine apart to install new oil pump, crank collars, sump mods etc.

I run my laptop from the cigarette lighter when nistuning/consult.. so I'm guessing at least 50w

About 0.46v is what you want to see with the throttle completely closed, if it is outside of 0.4-0.5v then it will trip that error code.

I'm just guessing here:, the oil pressure switch (idiot light in the dash) because of the oil temp one being there