Moodles2

I'd recommend QFM HPX, only if it's a street driven car.. don't take these pads to the track.

^ Oil/water heat exchanger, unless you have an aftermarket oil cooler... the factory oil cooler should still be there (otherwise it would be strange to have no AM cooler with the factory one not there)

Doesn't matter if not hitting boost, there will be hot exhaust gases still flowing through it.. the logic of the timer itself is all guestimates, though you might want to get a consult cable or a aftermarket water temp gauge incase the coolant temp is sky rocketing (stock gauges dont hit the red part till something silly like 120c, even at 100c it won't budge from the normal position)

Where I got my shockproof from, he does Amsoil as well: http://performancelub.com/Amsoil%20pricelist.htm

Tomei and Nismo pumps are the same, I can't remember if Tomei supplies them to Nismo, or the reverse

The CAS has a provision for a key and the exhaust cam has the key itself (half moon), the CAS won't go back on properly unless the key is perfectly inline with the CAS stalk's key provision.

HICAS shares the powersteering fluid on R32's, the resouvior is near the airbox. If it's only recently doing it, the simplest possible answer is usually the right one, whoever did the alignment f**ked up badly and made it worse.

When Repco have 20% of Motul oils, go for Motul 4100 Turbolight 10w40 is porbably the best semi-synth or if you want a full-synthetic Motul 8100 X-cess 5w40/Motul X-Max 10w40 On a budget people have success with Gulf western Syn-X 3000 (10w40) Royal Purple is good too though pricey edit: if you want RP cheap, try: http://performancelub.com/

Firs thing you should do when you buy a car... dump the oil, change the fitler and put a decent 10w40 in there. 100psi is 7 kg/cm2. stock gauges read up to 8kg/cm2 so 100psi isnt anything to worry about, I see about 4kg/cm2 (60psi) to 6kg/cm2 (85psi) during a cold start, although I run the correct oil.

On GTRs there's one near the ABS unit on the strut tower, no idea if GTS-T will have it

Break it into paragraphs, and people might actually read it and help you.

Valvoline XLD 20w50 at $25 per bottle.. no expenses spared. I would start using a 10w40 unless there is a reason why your going cheap with such a thick oil (mask oil usage, don't expect the engine to last etc)

I brought my shockproof lightweight in july 2009, probably why I haven't been affected.

Just what speed are you going when trying to shift down to first? Really you shouldn't even be trying to shift into first if you are still moving

RB20/RB25 AFMs max out at about 200kw (give or take 10kw depending if your willing to take the risk of tuning it outside of it's resolution), if your target is 200kw+ then you will need a Z32 AFM

Straight from the R32 service manual: Transfer case (page CH-59) - 1.8 litres of Nissanmatic fluid D [approx. 1.8 litres] Manual transmission (page CH-23) - Nissan gear oil MP-G special GL-4 #75-90 [approx 4.1 litres] Front final drive (page CH-125) - Nissan gear oil hypoid GL-5 85W-90 [approx. 1.0 litre] Rear final drive (page CH-125) - Nissan gear oil hypoid LSD GL-5 80W-90 [approx. 1.5 litres] In other words, only genuine Nissan MaticD in the transfer case, anything GL-4 or GL-5 about 75W90 in the gearbox, any GL-5 gear oil in the front diff, any GL-5 LSD oil in the rear diff both diffs 80W-90 is fine. Engine takes about 4.5l with filter. 10w40 is recommended. With the driveline there is Castrol on the cheap or Motul/Redline if money isn't an issue. Engine Oil brand? just read the big oil sticky in this forum.

SAFC2 isn't "engine management", it's a piggyback that bends the signal. You will be very hard pressed to find people still using SAFC2 as the Z32 ECU + Nistune combo is the choice for R33s on a budget ($220ish for Nistune type2 daughterboard, $50ish for a used Z32 VG30DETT ECU, $200 for a nistune license and $95 for a usb consult cable and $100ish to have the board installed in the ECU), it will plug straight in and you won't have to hack up your wiring whereas that piggyback you will have to.

Is the dump pipe a split or bellmouth type? If it's a split type, the flap that controls the wastegate gas might be stuck wide open fouled on the split itself

As far as I'm aware stock boost for GTS-t's is 7psi, GTR stock boost is 10psi though

225/50/16 KU36 $155.00 How much would a pair of these be delivered to SA, 5108

I'm pretty sure the slowness of the stock gauge is actually intentional by Nissan so that sudden oil pressure changes wouldn't alarm the driver.

Look into cleaning the AAC as well

rb25det stock cams have 7.8mm of lift on both in and ex, rb26dett stock cams have 8.58mm in, 8.28mm ex of lift. It's why rb25det's make peak power at 6400rpm and rb26dett's at 6800rpm

Might be the airflow meter, if cleaning doesn't help try a known working one and see if it still happens. Other thing I can think of is the oxygen sensor, it will be (or should be) cycling at low loads.. perhaps it's doing something wierd, try unplugging it.

If supported by Nistune, it's ROM pack should contain the redtop rb20 basemap