Moodles2

Maybe the CAS, put your hand on it to check

Do you know what fluid you are running in the LSD?

Upgrading to the R34 SMIC oem cooler yes, never heard of anyone upgrading to the R34 GTR's oem cooler.

Bonnet would be really hard to close on a R32 with a RB30, well RB26 heads anyway

When injectors get clogged/dirty they lose their factory spray (mist) and turn into a leaky tap, could explain why it's running rich.. no way to know for absolute sure unless the injectors are taken out and cleaned&flow tested. There has to be a reason why there is excess fuel being dumped in, someone has suggested looking for a Atmo BOV which would cause the car to stall while slowing down and running rich (metered air being dumped to the atmosphere before it reached the engine instead of being re-circulated as the stock ecu expects).. although you would know you have one by the wanky noise.

If anything it might be HICAS if it's not locked down

300V chrono is probably motul's best oil (and expensive) for our cars, definitely on par with Amsoil's Group V oils, maybe even better.

CPSI, cells per square inch. 400 CPSI, means for every square inch, there is 400 cells. Which means for every square inch, air has to flow through those 400 cells. On the other hand 100 CPSI, for every square inch there will only be 100 cells. 400 CPSI will have tiny little cells which is where the restriction will be, 100 CPSI will have cells that are 4x bigger in size than a 400 cell cat. Picture it like 400 CPSI cat breathing through a straw, and 100 CPSI cat breathing through a garden hose.

It might be something as simple as the timing being out, whether the CAS is in the wrong position or the timing belt has skipped a tooth or 2, or perhaps whoever did the timing belt did it wrong. I'd probably add getting those injectors ultrasonically cleaned if they are 200,000km old, I wouldn't bother with those fuel injector fuel additives. If the plugs were black then it's probably running rich. Get yourself a consult cable instead of blindly changing the coolant temp sensor, will also tell you if the O2 sensor is working, TPS, AFM etc.

GF-4 is a ILSAC standard, Group II/III/IV/V etc are API standards

Replace bracket asap, if the CAS isn't perfectly spaced out (too close by even 1mm) it can prematurely wear out the optical sensor inside the stalk on the CAS

I've always wondered about NEO oil, how does it rate alongside other Group V's like Motul, Redline, Royal Purple Group V's?

front is a normal diff, rear is a LSD. Rear needs LSD oil, front doesn't (doesn't need LSD oil, but can use it without any harm)

ummmm without a boost solenoid (MAC valve), you can't control boost.. the MS-IBC will be a fancy boost pressure gauge.

Red and blue control the remote trigger (boost scramble/change memory): http://www.gizzmoelectronics.com/pdf/MS-IBC%20Instruction%20PDF%20Ver1.01.pdf

Check the black box on the driveside firewall, that is a MAP sensor for the stock boost gauge, the factory hose often splits and will hiss under vacuum. The same hose goes to the back of the balance tube and can split there too. Double check the hose to the FPR, if it's split there or came off.. bye-bye engine if you keep driving it.

Depends on the solenoid type when unpowered, if it's a bleed type it would return to stock boost, if it's a pneumatic type you could see unlimited boost. Bleed types bleed air to raise boost, pneumatic types interrupt and block the boost pressure to raise it. If a pneumatic solenoid's last position when powered was in a blocking position, you will get unlimited boost no matter what.

There won't be a crank colar, R33 GTR crankshaft has a long oil drive. Was the sump overfilled? (in most likely hood: oil starvation. N1 pumps will fill the head faster than a stock pump, without a sump extension or oil restrictors or overfilling to 6l. By the time you reach the end of a straight the sump will be bone dry) How old was the oil pump? (recently made as in 2 years ago, the N1's have a bad reputation, older pumps were fine) What oil did you use at the track? Do you have an oil/air seperator or aftermarket cam baffle plates to return blowby oil to the sump instead of back into the intake and out the exhaust?

If the previous owner put Valvoline in, then he has probably been putting in whatever was on special at Supercheap... in high likely there could be sludge as the result of cheap oil (magnatec is known to do this) causing high oil pressure by blocking the oil galleries, oil restrictors, turbo oil line etc. Shine a torch into the oil cap opening and take a pic

Stock ECU + 14psi? there's the problem right there.

Perfect, I can't remember what the service manual says, about 175psi is what it expects for a new/freshly rebuilt engine

Oil in the intake can come from anywhere, turbo seals, blowby (piston rings etc).. as I said before 20w50 can be used to mask these things. I hope he didn't put a bottle of chemiweld to fix the headgasket, that stuff is nasty.. I would only put it in a shitbox. As for smoke I would be doing a leakdown test to see if there really is a problem with the head gasket, piston rings etc. As for idling like crap I think that's normal for cold RBs, I know mine does in the first couple of mins. In your case you might have a problem with your cooling system that is causing it to take forever for it to get up to temperature (wrong thermostat or thermostat stuck open, aftermarket oil cooler without a oil thermostat etc) Oil pressure is linked to engine temperature, if the engine is cold pressure is high, when the engine is at operating temperature it's low.

Not noisy at all, I sometimes barely hear the A1RMs when dead cold but only if the stereo is completely off. Only reason why pads make noise on skylines is because people throw away the Nissan backing plates or don't put grease between them and the pad itself. Without those backing plates or the right grease, the pad vibrates under braking and makes awful squealing noises.

QFM A1RM, only abit more than the HPX, good at the track and street.. but very dusty. but check GSL Rallysport's sponser section on here, it's where i've got my QFM pads from so far

Check if the alternator belt is slipping, with that voltage drop I'd be looking at the chassis ground and cleaning them up by sanding the paint/rust back, and even go as far as making a seperate (clean) ground for the alternator. If all that doesn't solve it, new alternator