Moodles2
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Everything posted by Moodles2
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What's the part number of the replacement sensor?
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Contact Ray at Gizzmo, he has always been helpful when I had problems with my MS-IBC
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I run a K&N panel filter in my GTR, I really heard no induction noise until I swapped out my stock turbos for garrett -9s.. now i hear them spool up from 2psi onwards whereas I didn't even really hear the stock turbos make any noise until 7psi.
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I thought these kits also tap into the factory air bleed valves like the one near the fuel pressure regular?
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Are you thinking about taking the stock water sensor out and putting the autometer in it's place? if so don't, ECU uses it for cold enrichment.
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Check if it actually does have a tune, just because it's Nistune'd it could just be running a straight unmodified basemap.
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Oiled, I run one myself in my GTR for 2 years and no AFM problems. Panel filter that is, I believe there are some things you can do to the airbox, I vagually recall with R33 airboxes you could take off one of the side pieces which Nissan put there to stop induction noise?
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Adjusters, they tend to come with cheap fasteners. If/when they let go the cam gear will be set to the extreme advance or retard position which is guaranteed to smash at least 12 valves into pistons, 24 if unlucky.
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Throw away the fasteners that come with them, and go get some quality fasteners (hi-tensile etc) to use with them
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How Much Redline Water Wetter Do You Use?
Moodles2 replied to boostn0199's topic in General Maintenance
Pure ethylene glycol (100% antifreeze, 0% water) has a boiling point of 197 degrees C, water boils at 100 degrees C. If you want to know percentages inbetween check the link below. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ethylene_glycol#Antifreeze "Ethylene glycol boiling point vs. concentration in water" For every PSI of pressure the rad cap adds to the cooling system, ups the boiling point by approx. 3 degrees C. -
it would only take 8psi of positive boost pressure to reach the rated limit of carby hose (assuming base pressure is 42psi)
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Check powersteering fluid level.
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The AC fan switches on at about 95c, it's triggered by a coolant temp sensor in the bottom of the radiator (seperate from the one at the top)
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Limp home mode, happens when AFM is unplugged or faulty. Either you damaged it somehow (cleaned with what?) or the solder joints just happened to go (either in the plug or the circuit board)
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The Nismo manifold only goes as far as saying something like a 1.8% power increase (although balancing all 6 cylinders instead of the stock one which puts too much air into cyl #6). If it's not designed by a reputable aftermarket company (greddy, nismo, hypertune etc) then in all likelyhood they may be worse off than the stock manifold in my opinion
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At the track it's a good idea to take it off to stop the coils from being cooked, but probably unnecessary to do with street driving. I know I leave my cover on when not at the track.
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Do you have an aftermarket BOV? Are the vacuum hoses to the charcoal canister all connected?
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mild steel does a better job than stainless at keeping heat inside the pipe (which is what you want with turbos), mild steel rusts though so would probably last 10 years (rough guess) before it needs replacing whereas the stainless pipe will last the life of the car.
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Both are fully synthetic, so they will last awhile.. 100,000-200,000km, maybe more.
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Nistune can run any basemap you want, in your case a Z32 or RB20 ecu with Nistune daughterboard inside can load a R33 RB25 basemap. Both these ECUs are direct fit, just that Z32 one has VCT control and the RB20 one doesn't.
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Spends alot of money on boost controller. Spend $0 on engine management. You may need to rethink priorities. Anything above 10psi the stock ECU will just go into R&R "Rich and Retard"
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What Else Do I Try To Rid Brake Squeeling?
Moodles2 replied to SargeRX8's topic in Suspension, braking, tyres and drivetrain
What exactly was put between the shims and pads (brand, product name)? -
Link is only a front pipe, you probably want a dump+front pipe combo like: http://justjap.com/store/product.php?productid=18178&cat=276&page=1
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So many people come onto this forum and complain about boost problems etc, almost always it's because they've just fitted a split dump like pictured in that ebay link, the wastegate flap fouls on the splitter.. getting stuck open, not opening completely etc
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Probably a failing coilpack