Moodles2

Autobahn888 (or 88 I can't remember.. 8 is a lucky number to asian countries) tend to copy (and do a shitty job) of every Jap aftermarket company, HKS dumps etc

Spray it through the mesh, then let it dry.

I have a can of CFC MAF Cleaner, it wasn't really that expensive. like $8 from memory

If you take the switch apart, you can stretch the spring out but it will only be a temporary fix. I took mine apart 9 months ago and seems to still be working, sometimes I have to turn my lights off and on again for my left headlight to power up. New they are about $250 delivered from japan (rhdjapan.com).

It's the headlight switch in the cabin, common problem. Inside are little springs which complete a electrical connection when the headlight selector knob is turned to a specific setting. Those springs lose their "springiness" and are unable to complete the connection. Left headlight, Right headlight and parkers each have their own spring, that why either side can fail and why when you use the pass flasher that side magically starts working again.

If they removed any intercooler piping and didn't put it back on securely you could have a vacuum/boost leak.. or on a unrelated note the piping could have blown off by itself.

I think regrinding the crank is a bad idea since Nissan nitrided them at the factory. Also those head to sump drain kits that attach to the back of the head don't do much in the way of preventing oil starvation, they tend to only allow crankhouse gases to vent easier. Better off drilling out the oil drains in both the block and the head from 8mm to 9mm (or 9.5mm or maybe even 10mm), and possibly smaller restrictors (2mm factory). Best way to prevent oil starvation is simply overfill to approx 6 to 6.5l (the hump on the dipstick)

One turbo was probably doing all the work while the one wasn't doing much.

I wouldn't recommend using someone elses settings as each car is different, it might do 13psi with his setup but might be 21psi on yours.

What do you mean by 40w? for example 10w40 broken down 10w is the cold rating, 40 is the hot rating. If you are using 10w40 and it's ticking, try a 5w40 (example motul 8100 x-cess) or a 0w40 (mobil 1 gold something)

ticking while cold, or at operating temperature?

The 3rd port is used to bleed air on an internal wastegate setup, it's only ever connected with a external wastegate. As for the oil you probably have some blowby oil in your intake pipiing.

Probably damaged a vacuum hose while doing the filter, sounds like a vacuum leak

I recall reading about the Group A R32 GTRs being launched at redline and one of the drivers being uncomfortable about doing it that way. When I watched Best Motoring in those endurance races, they launched the R32 and R33 GTRs in 2nd gear.

Clean up the battery terminals, and clean up the chassis ground. Bad batch of fuel, boost leak, faulty/dirty AFM can cause what you describe. The ECU will have been reset, but that's mostly autolearning things.. but it shouldn't cause what you describe.

I agree about the tag not looking genuine, the engraving on my -9s was nice and neat... looks like its been engraved with a soldering iron or something.

They are -5's. That family used to be the GT28 series but Garrett for some reason renamed them (-5's, -9's, -7's etc) to GT25 series. As for power, need more info: who tuned it (does the PFC actually have a tune on it or is it running a stock basemap), how much boost your running, dyno sheet with AFRs etc

dipstick should have a part number on it, then you can confirm if it is indeed a rb30 dipstick or not

RB26 Dipstick from a R32 GTR as I promised.

0.8mm gap is a the poor man's fix to misfiring (worn coils, faulty ignitor etc), the standard 1.1mm gap is the most ideal. If it misfires at 1.1mm just work your way down until it stops misfiring.

You could try grinding off the "Nissan" part of the calipers, will give you approx 10-20mm clearance at a guess (I dont know exactly)

I'll take a photo of mine tomorrow if I remember

It will teach you everything you need to know, when I did mine years ago I had never physically even touched a motorbike, let alone knew how to operate one (I didn't even know there was a footbrake). It's actually quite a fun experience, the practical parts especially. I did have to repeat day 1 though as my clutch control was at slow speeds was alittle iffy (you learn that riding the clutch on a bike is actually encouraged and necessary, exact opposite of what we do in cars)

OEM RB26 cranks are nitrided from the factory. I assume by the need of 40 thou bearings the crank has been machined in some way (thus removing the hardening the nitride process adds). Although with that all said, this will let you run the ACL race series bearings: http://justjap.com/store/product.php?productid=16277&cat=&page=1

3L haha and you went ahead and boosted it? It wouldn't have lasted long on the track. Remember to clean the dipstick, put it back in, then take it out again and read it.