Moodles2

I didn't notice much difference in response from stock ceramics to -9s

I imported an Innovate MTX-L kit from the US, was just under $200 delivered

I fill up all the way to the hump above the H mark, anything inbetween the hump and H will be fine. Beyond the hump I would worry

Oil dipsticks never touch the bottom of the oil sump, usually have to put 3l in before it will even register on a stock sump. It will probably take 4-6l before it registers on your setup

Clean out AAC if you haven't done so already. Check fuel pressure, might be problem with pump.

I love shockproof (lightweight in my gtr's gearbox), but I've stopped recommending it, someone has mentioned the formula was changed sometime in the past year or 2 (or 3) and people have reported recent fluid blowing out the gearbox breathers. As for oil loss, it might be worth temporarily running a oil catch can and see if it's going out the breathers. Check intercooler and intake piping for oil. The fuel system cleaner was a waste of money.

When is the last time it's had a fluid change?

Driving lights were an option (dealer or factory I can't remember), could possibly be the connector for them.

Slipping clutch perhaps

It's the plug for the servo gate actuator, the cold solder joints go inside the plug and get stuck in the last working position. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/93814-r32-ac-not-cold/page__view__findpost__p__1693650

It's technically not a chip, but an addon daughterboard. All R32 GTRs are Nistune'able though, it's the R33 ones that aren't.

Something like this: http://justjap.com/store/product.php?productid=20104&cat=&page=1

About 172psi the service manual specifies as a newish engine (standard internals), about 120psi the manual recommends a rebuild. Although we need more info on the engine, aftermarket cams, cam gears, pistons, headgasket etc. as 110psi could be perfectly normal for that setup.

General rule of thumb (not exact) 2.5" flows 250kw, 3" flows 300kw, 3.5" flows 350kw etc.

You could use the VIN and put it into FAST to find out if it was factory equipped with a DE or DET

You can order replacement coppermix flywheels, pressure plates etc from rhdjapan, but no complete rebuild kits (that I can remember)

comdlg32.ocx is related to visual basic, check this: http://windowsxp.mvps.org/comdlg32.htm

! usually comes on when brake fluid is low.. top it up and it will go away.

Don't use carby cleaner on AFMs!

In R32s, I've found the 'one head light' problem is almost always the headlight cabin switch. The switch has 3 springs, one for the right headlight (highbeam and normal), same for the left, and one for both parkers. The spring tends to sag and looses it's elasticity so it's possible to loose a headlight (normal and highbeam not working at the same time, on one side). Because the spring has sagged, it can't complete the electrical connection (yes 12v runs into the cabin, into the said switch) where it would normally push a tiny metal plate into the other when working properly, to complete the connection.

To me it looks like a Genuine Z32. A fake Z32 looks like this: http://forum.nistune.com/viewtopic.php?f=12&t=1431

"put everything back to stock including stock boost solenoid and blow off valve" ... what blow off valve was on there before?

http://www.kudosmotorsports.com/catalog/nissan-cam-rocker-cover-seal-kit-genuine-nissan-rb20de-rb20det-rb25de-rb25det-rb26dett-excluding-neo-p-207.html

List everything you've done (I mean everything, mods, tweaks, servicing etc) between when the car was working properly (idled at normal revs), and now. Take a look at the charcoal canister (black cylinder with 2 or 3 hoses connected) and see if you haven't blown one of the hoses off when you upped the boost pressure. I don't know about RB25 Neo's, but I think NGK BKR7ES plugs could be the wrong ones (BCPR7ES might the correct one)

I don't see any issues with cheap cam gears, I run a pair myself. The problem is the cheap fasteners that come with them that are the problem, if they let go the cam gears will go to one of the extremes (20 degrees advanced or retarded, I can't remember which way) that will 100% guarantee bent valves. Solution is to replace them with hi-tensile bolts which costs virtually nothing.