Moodles2

Is the dump pipe a split design? It's possible the flap is stuck on the dump's divider (stuck half open for example). I assume you have some sort of manual boost controller or EBC? You might need to run a new vacuum hose straight from the boost controller (manual or EBC) to the wastegate, and/or a different boost source for it.

Could be anything, you might not have closed the door properly and the interior light was going. Need a multimeter inline with the battery and the positive terminal to see how much millivolts are being drawn to know for sure if something electrical drained the battery.

Might have snapped the clutch support bracket, common problem.

This is with R32 headlight switches so it might not apply to R33s: If both highbeam and regular beam aren't working at the same time, then it's a common problem where the 12V power for the lights doesn't reach the headlights (battery->engine bay->cabin->headlight switch->engine bay->headlights). When you turn the knob it pushes springs which complete a electrical circuit, the springs will sag from wear and tear and won't complete the circuit. If both high and low aren't working, but the highbeam flasher on the stalk does, then it's 100% a problem with the headlight switch. There are 3 springs, 1 for both parkers, 1 for the left headlight (highbeam & normal) and 1 for the right headlight (highbeam and normal). You can stretch the springs out, but it's a temp fix.

Most likely one end has more tread than the other making up for the rolling diameter difference.

If getting a cat, stick with Catco or Magnaflow as these will actually pass an emissions test. Catco have had their's tested with the EPA and have certificates for them whereas knockoffs (X-force which is a copy of a HKS cat for example) don't have a chance in hell of passing. Magnaflow being american and Californian emissions laws I think being even stricter than Euro standards.

I haven't looked into Syn-X 6000, but has it been confirmed as a true 100% synthetic (Group IV PAO basestock), not just marketed as "fully synthetic"? On another note, I was researching a local company Anglomoil who make an oil called 'Roadmaster 500' (super popular on nissan silvia for some reason) a month or 2 ago and it turns out it's just a Group III oil. I was hoping it might be a hidden gem like Sougi S6000 since it was priced like S6000 and it being a "full synthetic".

Last I looked R32 GTR one was about $200 delivered. I managed to fix mine luckily

Syn X 3000 is a semi synth, as with any semi-synth I wouldn't be running it for longer than 5000km or 6 months (whatever comes first)

The GCG adjustable actuators are so much cheaper than HKS adjustables: http://www.gcg.com.au/index.php?page=shop.product_details&flypage=flypage.tpl&product_id=556&category_id=39&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=101 You can re-use the factory actuators but they will cause all types of problems around 18psi because of the weak springs.

The reason why we call them -5's, -7's, -9's, -10's etc is because it's the postfix to the common part number. The part numbers are: 707160-5, 707160-7, 707160-9 & 707160-10. The is no logical order (-5's are the smallest while -10's are the biggest or vice versa) to the turbos, it's just easier to use the postfix to refer to these turbos. -9 (aka HKS GT-SS) are a tweaked design of the -7 (R34 N1) turbo by HKS. -7's are exactly the same as R34 N1 turbos while -9's are exactly the same as HKS GT-SS turbos, to say the Garrett GT2860 range have steel wheels is inaccurate since the wheels are made from Inconel (steel + nickel) so stronger and lighter than oldschool steel wheels. In terms on response, -7 and -9's in my opinion have slightly better response than stock turbo (well R32 GTR units anyway). As for comparing -7's and -9's against each other, some people say -7's (older design) are slightly more responsive while others say -9's (newer design) are more responsive. As for power, you will get more flow (power) from -9's. It's generally accepted -9's can see up to 320kw while -7's about 300kw. -9's are slightly more expensive because they don't come with actuators, but you would probably want to put adjustable actuators on them anyway. -7's do come with non-adjustable actuators but they are 14.7psi (1 bar) actuators from memory.

Taking the restrictor out brings the boost pressure to about 14.7psi, is within the limits of a stock ECU. Whether you leave the restrictor in or not, stock turbos can let go either way.

Paint over any electrical grounding points in the enginebay?

If the base timing (or CAS) wasn't set correctly when the timing belt went back on, retarded timing can cause engine to run hotter than normal. Best way to bleed the system is with heater on full, cut a 2l coke bottle in half and use something (like duct tape) to seal the radiator cap opening, this ensures it's the absolute highest point (opening the bleed screws or jacking up the front can't hurt either)

I've seen on many RBs tuned by Jap tuning houses, crank angle sensors that are in the fully retarded position, but that's how they tune them. If your tuner has done something like this then you might damage your engine by putting the CAS in the middle without confirming the timing first with a timing light.

Check timing with a timing light. The link mentions a 2nd hand CAS, maybe that CAS was borked too. Does the engine run fine cold, then get issues once warm/hot? Compression results? Is the ECU firmly plugged in? What does the TPS read at idle, and WOT?

advancing 2 or 4 degrees on the intake cam gear (although with factory cams) adds midrange to RB26's, with minimal topend loss.

The splitter in split dump pipes can foul on the wastegate flap (big problem with cheap ones on RB25DETs), the split itself is just too short to be of any benefit anyway, also of note the x-force design is just a copy of the HKS design. They shouldn't have a problem flowing 350kw+ though. If the cat has 2.5" ends, then I wouldn't be surprised if power was restricted to 250kw. For your power level you want at least 3" ends, 3.5" ideally to match the cat back.

Don Dana makes a good point, are they actually "GT2860-9's" because if so, that model are actually disco potatoes. GT2859-9's are the ones that are equivalent to the factory ceramics

Who did the turbo install? perhaps you have restrictive (OEM) gaskets, like a 2.5" (inner diameter) gasket between the front pipe and cat, or something small between the turbo and dump pipe, or dump pipe and front pipe etc Is the fuel pump running at alternator voltage? Were the actuators new (or were the factory 8psi ones re-used?), also are they adjustable? Maybe 1 turbo is doing all the work while the other isn't doing much (more preload on the actuator than the other). Was the timing rechecked when the adjustable gears went on?

I recommend (from a forum sponsor, not ebay!): http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/398125-walbro-255lph-in-tank-fuel-pump-gss342-fittings-130-incl-delivery/page__hl__walbro__fromsearch__1 Normally when the pump is changed through that lid, the tank doesn't need to be empty but can make things easier. Since you have the only skyline on LPG, I don't see any other way than to either remove the LPG tank to access it (is the tank actually sitting over it?), or remove the fuel tank (will most likely need draining).

Open boot, take boot carpet out, look for a lid with hoses going to it. Lid comes off and the pump can be taken out and replaced. Red wire goes to positive, black wire goes to ground.. doesn't require an auto electrician to do this. Back seat nor the tank need to be removed.

Whatever the person who rebuilt your engine recommends (SAE grade and/or brand). Rebuilt engines can have different tolerances for a certain weight of oil. If it's just a bog stock rebuild driven around streets then any good 5w40 or 10w40.

The paper intake gaskets crack from old age.

Cheapest option is a genuine Walbro 255 or a Bosch 044. Walbro is the easier to fit (vs the Bosch) when the pump is supplied with a wiring kit to suit your car. Make sure to get a genuine pump and not a chinese copy. On a note these pumps have issues (physical mounting inside the tank) when fuel gets to 1/4 level. Also they need to be wired into alternator voltage as they don't tend to like the factory 6v/12v switching. The option that is the least ammount of hassle are the Jap aftermarket pumps (Nismo, Tomei, HKS etc) which drop straight in, require no new wiring, and have no issues on low fuel in the tank. External fuel pump, no. You need a lift pump physically inside the tank so you would be running 2 pumps minimum, the 2nd pump would be inline "external".