Moodles2

Q45 AFMs are terrible, they don't have the same resolution as a Z32 AFM and apparently hard to get them idling right, not to mention the on/off throttle issues. Also they are supposed to max out at 300kw, but as quoted from PaulR33's site: "Please note there is lots of speculation around the Q45's in single or twin form. These seem to be a hit and miss. I think there are two models for the Q45 AFM. They have similar part # ranges and look the same, but we suspect they act very differently. We have seen a few examples of members who can't get past 230rwkw with a single Q45 so it's unclear which is correct. " Throw away the adjustable FPR unless your injectors are maxed out, otherwise use the stock reg.

15w30 doesn't exist (15w50 does though, 15w60 too), and 10w30 is way too thin. Dump the oil immediately and put a 5w-40 or 10w-40. If the previous owner did indeed recommend 15w50 or 15w60 then the engine might have problems and those were used to mask the problems before sale (lack of compression, rings gone etc).

Gap the plugs down, lose power. I've bolded the problem for you.: It may just be me, but i'm still feeling a very slight miss under low RPM - just before it comes on boost and mainly when the car is cold.

When I got my Gizzmo EBC afew years ago, either the solenoid failed or the controller failed, had to send it back acouple times but in the end it's working fine now.

As I said before, if it's a viscous LSD which you have unless you've taken a mechanical diff off a GTR or put an aftermarket LSD in, the LSD part on a viscous diff is sealed. LSD oil won't hurt it but it is $100 down the drain though. As for oil, check for alternatives in the "Goods on oils" sticky in this forum because $80 will buy you a *proper* synthetic oil at supercheap if that's the only local store near you. Examples are GW syn-x 6000, royal purple HPR, castrol edge, motul 8100 x-cess/x-max, penrite racing 10 tenths etc. Motul 4100 while great, is still but a semi-synth, $90 + filter is just too much for it.

OMFG why ebay? Motul 4100 is cheaper instore (like $45-55), a Ryco filter is like $10-15 I hope you have an automatic transmission if putting Transmax Z in (don't put this in Getrag 6 speeds, they need genuine fluid) Wow I can get genuine Nissan coolant concentrate cheaper than that. Brake Fluid: Motul RBF600 is cheaper (like $30-35 a bottle at bike shops) and higher boiling point than 5.1 Diff oil might be pointless if it's a viscous LSD (just need regular oil for them) Don't touch cheap silicone, they're shit. Just go with genuine Nissan hoses or Gates (cheaper than genuine) hoses You may also want to list what your car actually is.

Racing plugs were used as an excuse to cover why it's really taking 10-15minutes to startup.

cam seal or crank seal?

There is the option of getting it from Nissan Australia, but you will pay twice than importing it yourself.

Cheapest is from RHDJapan: http://www.rhdjapan.com/nissan-oem-lighting-switch-bnr32-skyline-gt-r-52200

Keep the tank low before storing, so in 7 months time you can put in a near full tank of fresh fuel. Maybe try a bottle of fuel stabilizer so it doesn't go stale.

The money is on them being SR S15 480cc injectors, minus the pintle caps (where the heck are they!!!?). Also looks like where the injector should be silver, has been painted black. Here's what they look like: http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_7y7I_iLm7Y0/S9aVoMAwDvI/AAAAAAAAAWk/UhJ6MCUuzY8/s1600/USED+S15+INJECTOR+480CC+NEAR+NEW.jpg You might not even have highflowed injectors even, just regular 480cc's.

I've used Jesse Streeter in the past and also greenline. Both the cheapest I could find at the time.

Charcoal canister still hooked up? sometimes the hoses blow off under boost

Might be the CAS, mine sounded similiar when I didn't space it correctly on a clear timing cover.

PowerFC uses the cat light to indicate engine knocking etc

It's an oil/air seperator, originally designed by Autech, copied by just about everyone: http://www.hioctanedirect.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=67_74&products_id=1636 and http://justjap.com/store/product.php?productid=17765&cat=&page=1 Just returns oil back to the sump, instead of dumping it into the intake.

Good thing about cars without ABS, is more spare parts for us.

From memory R32 is like 4 times a second, but I'm not 100% sure.

Don't trust those stickers, as part of compliance there has to be a sticker mentioning timing, clearances etc. Well mine says BTC of 15degrees (RB25), which if you know RB26's actually run a BTC of 20 degrees.

O2 Feedback control. turn it off to ignore any input from the O2 sensors (or lack of input)

-10's are notorious for surging & shuffling not to mention an awful option for street duties. HKS 2530's are slightly bigger than -5's but nowhere near as big as -10's.

I don't know what you're smoking, but I'm pretty sure the cat temp warning is a completely different warning light (red light whereas the check engine light is orange)

Nismo 740 (4 holes): http://www.rhdjapan.com/nismo-high-flow-volume-injector-side-feed-740cc-10136 If they are indeed 1 hole, then you most likely have highflowed injectors, RX7 injectors (480cc) or SR injectors (270cc?). Both have red tops.

255's on 8" wide wheel? that is way too wide for a narrow rim, talk about weak sidewalls on the tyre. You really should have 225 or 235s on them.