Moodles2

CAS and ignitor are 2 items that will work fine when cold, but if failing, will cause problems when they're hot.

Tomei Intake cam gear won't fit because of VCT, unless you deleted VCT.

It's good news it's finally solved, I swear my suggestions were falling to deaf ears.

I use lightweight in my front diff

2. No, the front diff isn't a LSD. Just a regular single spinner. Putting LSD oil won't hurt it at all though. 3. As for capacity, need someone with access to the R34 GTR service manual. R32/R33 is: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/205993-transmission-lubricants/page__view__findpost__p__4741416 4. Good: Motul & Redline Cheap: Castrol

Pump needs to be wired to alternator voltage, it's a known fact walbro's don't like the factory fuel voltage switch setup, nor were they meant to be run at 12v either.

As far as reports from R34 SMIC users go, 200-220kw seems the max you can get from a R34 factory sidemount. The upper limit of 240kw with a ARC sidemount. But there is no escaping heatsoak on a SMIC, hotter the air the less power you make.

Since you are a GTR owner, that is most likely your ATTESSA pump that is priming that you can hear, not your fuel pump.

I don't know if it's been mentioned already, but doesn't the Neo stocker have a nylon compressor wheel (or some sort of nylon composite material)?

PowerFC assumes 20 degrees, it has no way of confirming (since cam timing is mechanical not electrical) what the base timing currently is set to. What could have happened was the mechanic wrongly used 15 degrees (RB25s) instead of 20 degrees (RB26s) when setting the cam timing, and made things worse by using the wire loop at the back of the engine with a cheap timing light.

I've read people claim with Sard 800's shaving off part of the plug on the injectors (or maybe it was the loom's plug) and they fit straight in.

I had original japanese fitted tyres (the shitty retreads I mentioned) on as well, were fun at the track as they were like driving in the rain.. just kept sliding all over Mallala raceway

If you are taking the blindfold and fingers in ears approach and ignore our posts. Borrow a set of wheels from a known working GTR that has no ATTESSA issues and put them on your car, making sure the exact same corner they were taken off, gets put on the same corner on your car. Also the ATTESSA reservoir isn't supposed to be over the full mark (somewhere inbetween hot and cold), but I can't say for sure it would cause any issues while overfilled.

You won't believe how many morons keep bringing up that street commodores oil review in this thread alone. Everytime pointed out it's a grease testing method.

Geeeeee what do you think?

Japanese fuel pump nozzles must be tiny for a reason? perhaps they're small so japanese men don't feel inadequate when they fill up their car.

Even though you have 245/50/16's all around, the difference in tyre wear (new vs old tyres) and also difference in brand, say you get 2 sets of new tyres, brand new of one brand up front, while brand new of different brand at the rear. This can still cause what you describe Before getting rid of the old rear tyres (and getting the same as the front you have now), you can try switching the tyres, rears on the front, front on the rears. If it still happens, you can try tweaking the tyre pressure so there is different pressure front & back (40psi front, 25psi back or vice versa) in an attempt to get the rolling diameter into what ATTESSA deems an acceptable rolling diameter variance. Ages ago I had the same tyres all around (brand and model), then I went to the track and ripped my rears apart. I got new rears (Kumho KU36's) and it did exactly as you describe, constant front wheel engagement. I immediately pulled the 4WD switch to save the transfer case (driving around with it constantly engaged will just damage the clutch packs, in your case the damage might already be done). So in the short, shitty re-treads on the front + new Kumho KU36's on the back = what I experienced, exactly as you described (even though they were 225/50/16 all around on my 16" R32 GTR stockies)

Need way more info than what you are sharing. Tyre brand, model and profile on the front, also the same question for the back? You mention the tyres on the front were changed so I will assume they are new, but how many kilometres have you done on the rear tyres? (try putting the rears on the front and vice versa) What brand of wheels and what model do you have, and how big are they (16", 17", 18" etc) and what widths are front & back and also what offset(s). When is the last time the ATTESSA system has been properly bled and fluid replaced? When is the last time the transfercase has it's fluid changed? Have you taken out the centre console around the gearstick area? (damaged geforce sensors) Does the ATTESSA pump prime for about 10 seconds and then stop when you turn the key to ON in the morning? You shouldn't be getting anything on the torque gauge while cruising, there is an obvious rolling diameter issue.

Print out the street commodores oil review, and then use it to wipe your ass. Regular RP is a Group IV oil, XPR is Group V. If you can get RP cheaper than Edge, go for it. People seem to have alot of success with RP on here with their skylines, no negatives that I can remember.

ECUTalk for readouts of every sensor or fault codes. http://www.ecutalk.com/ecutalk.aspx There isn't anything you can change on a stock ecu, you can change ignition timing by advancing or retarding by X ammounts of degrees, but it doesn't get saved on shutdown. Need Nistune board installed + nistune software to actually change things as mentioned.

If it's stuck in coldstart as you say, then the coolant temp sensor that runs to the ECU might not be functioning

Front HICAS? HICAS is rear wheel steering. You can just loop the lines that would normally run to HICAS at the powersteering pump

GTR coolers are mounted fairly well back, well behind the reo bar iirc

Atmo Blow off valve + stock ECU (without tune) is a recipe for disaster (running rich, stalling etc). Without a functioning cat, you will find alot of black soot on your bumper, I hope you look forward to cleaning it regularly.

Yes GTR dumps all fit on each other, only difference is R32 GTR dumps have 12mm oxygen sensor threads and R33/R34's use 18mm oxygen sensor.