Moodles2

Factory setup switches between 6V and 12V, 6V at idle/low load and 12V for higher load. Aftermarket pumps don't like 6V, and don't perform very well at 12V (infact might be worse than the factory pump). It's only when aftermarket pumps are running at alternator voltage will they deliver what they advertise (255lph for walbro pumps etc)

If you filled to the hot mark while cold, the difference is probably sitting inside your oil filter now.

Turn the boost down (retarding the timing you will just lose power anyway) or get a tune. Is it a R32 ECU? I've read someone on here say that only R33 and beyond ECUs have R&R

0.5v is actually what you want at idle (ideally 0.44-0.46v but as long as it works at 0.5v), 2.35v is practically about 50% throttle so I'm not suprised it went into limp mode.

Is the HKS 2530 the one that sits between, or is it the old name for the GT-RS?

English please.

Doesn't the HKS GT-RS sit inbetween -5's and -10's

The 20 degree figure you see is the ECU assuming the base timing is 20degrees, it has no way of knowing mechanically what the timing is set to. If it's a cheap timing light you may actually be seeing double taking the reading from the wire loop, confirm with coil #1.

The money you paid for compliance should be covering those things (cv boot, brake light, headlight adjustment, wiper blades etc) as far as I remember. Only tyres aren't covered in compliance (only if the jap tyres won't pass)

A good timing light, there is a wire loop at the back of the engine to the left of the cam cover hoses. If it's a cheap nasty timing light you will need to plug straight into coil #1, otherwise the nasty timing light will just read double at the wire loop.

Get yourself an good oil filter removal tool, I can't recommend a type (there are many different tools, hammering a screwdriver into the oil filter should always be a last resort) as I've never had to change a filter in the standard position on a skyline (I have a filter relocator). Ryco Z442 oil filter As for oil, any semi-synthetic that is rated 5w-40, 10w40 that costs more than $25 that also isn't Magnatec. Try Gulf Western SynX 3000 ($20-$30ish, Repco is supposed to be cheapest). If you're willing to pay more, check Penrite HPR 10, Motul Turbolight 4100 (these 3 people have alot of success with and have positive feedback). Castrol Edge (just not magnatec!) is worth a mention too, Nulon not so much (my opinion is it's overpriced for a "full synthetic" which it actually isn't)

Advice coming from someone who owns a R32 GTS-T, the expert on the ATTESSA system.

If it's a R34 CAS, even though it bolts straight on, 2 wires are switched (will need to be switched over if it is indeed an R34 one)

Sounds like your problem is with Nissan, having no confidence in their OEM gear. The whole thing people get suckered into the Gates racing belt is that "300% stronger" spiel... if the factory belt will last 100,000km... are you expecting 300,000km out of the Gates belt? The difference between Gates cam seals and genuine OEM cam seals in the rubber quality is massive, the OEM is a soft rubber that looks like it would seal well while the Gates was hard as rock. Not to mention the Gates RB cam gears are the same flawed design as HKS with the 3 sliders instead of 5 which every other cam gear has. The point I'm making, is everything Gates make great? no.

I'm suprised you would even get dash lights, I know I don't with 10v

I've flattened my battery so many times (sealed lead acid type) by leaving my lights on while parked, I always keep a charger in my boot. I've found I need at least 12.4V (12.6V ideally) at the battery terminals for the car to start, anything lower and there is no chance of the starter to even turn once. 11.92V there is absolutely no chance, even my motorbike wouldn't start with that much voltage.

Ride will get slightly bumpier as tyres absorb alot of the bumps. Bigger the rim, the less tyre profile. R32 GTR V-spec rims are 17x9, R33 GTR rims are 17x9 and R34 GTR rims are 18x9 (compared to R32 GTR rims which are 16x8). Just don't make the mistake of buying staggered rims (different widths front and back, 17x8.5 on the front and 17x9 on the back for example) as this will just introduce ATTESSA problems. I use a set of 17x9 Oz Racing rims myself, they are my track rims while I keep my stockies as street rims.

GTR is an awful drift car choice, ATTESSA adds abunch of weight at the front (diffs, transfer case etc) causing them to understeer. The point of twin turbos is response not power.

CAS could be in the wrong position (retarded or advanced), need timing light to confirm it's set right. I wouldn't trust fuel that's been sitting around for 1 year, I would barely trust it with my lawnmower.

Confirmed with a timing light?

Did you actually set the timing?

With R32s it is completely safe to pull the 4WD fuse (or those "looms" that do the exact same thing but are more convenient). It's just with R33s and R34s it isn't safe to do this, must either drop the front shaft or do the procedure from the service manual to release pressure as there is preload on R33 and R34 GTRs (R32s don't have preload)

The factory plug doesn't fit a Z32 AFM, so a Z32 plug needs to be spliced into the existing wiring. scotty is just suggesting to look at the splicing, whether it was properly soldered or wires just twisted together with electrical tape wrapped around is the question. At the splice 2 (or more) wires that shouldn't be touching might be touching (especially if just twisted and taped). You might have to do some poking around with a multimeter at the splice and at the plug. If the mesh was screwed, it might have even been a fake Z32

You could go to all the expense in the end and find that power is still going to the front when it shouldn't or you might be lucky and it works out for you. I've seen people here complain when they tried running identical rims front and back (stockies for example), but different tyre brands front and back only to find power (even a slight ammount) going to the front wheels fulltime. ATTESSA just wasn't designed or meant to run full time.