Moodles2

Any reason why VCT isn't being used? Will explain lack of midrange

Looks exactly like my frontpipe, 3" and all rusted up (mild steel), even bottomed out in the exact same place. When I brought it ages ago I was told it was a Nismo frontpipe, but there isn't any Nismo branding on it. So it's either a old-style Nismo, Nismo copy, or Fujitsubo (looks identical in my jap GTR parts list catalogue, even the position of the flex pipe)

Wrong section, this is engine oil. These is a thread dedicated to driveline fluids in the Drivetrain forum section.

Don't skimp out on the cam and crank seals, they're standard as part of the 100k service. Might as well change the transfercase (only genuine Nissan fluid) and ATTESSA fluids too if you're doing the gearbox and diffs. Coilpacks, completely unnecessary and a waste of money unless the car is misfiring. As for gearbox oil, only use the proper Getrag stuff (Toyota V160 or genuine Nissan fluid etc). You will see recommendations like redline shockproof but these are for nissan 5 speeds, getrag boxes use ATF fluid so thorough research is needed if going with another brand like RP syncromax etc otherwise you will could damage an expensive gearbox if brand shopping.

How did you check the timing and are you sure the light wasn't reading double. As for the turbo glowing red, maybe the coolant line to the turbo is blocked. Since it is a stock turbo, maybe the ceramic exhaust wheel is missing a blade(s) that could account for the laggyness.

It says it's for a RB20DET but those cam breather hoses look the same to me as RB25DET's as well (confirm the part # to be sure). http://www.kudosmotorsports.com/catalog/nissan-hose-blowby-genuine-nissan-skyline-r32-gtst-rb20det-p-581.html

Well it's not a full kit, but it's 3 of the o-rings instead of the 1. http://www.kudosmotorsports.com/catalog/nissan-fuel-injector-seal-kit-individual-genuine-nissan-ca18det-rb20et-rb20det-rb26dett-sr20det-rnn14-p-972.html

Standard stuff, check spark plugs, replace if old. Check cam timing. Change oxygen sensor. Don't put anything put 98 in, unless you want it to run like crap.

10w60 would be perfect at the track. No so much as a daily, hot rating is just too thick.

Front diff and transfercase might be overdue for a fluid change. I have a feeling it's one of the above, front diff might be seized and the transfercase (attached to the gearbox) is shaking violently as it trying to force power to the front. Or a problem with the clutch packs in the transfercase. Or something simple like a bent/loose driveshaft that drives the front etc.

To answer the question about -9's being outdated. Garret -5, -7, -9, -10 all use exhaust wheels cast from Inconel (mix of nickel steel etc). To get better response from these same turbos, titanium aluminide could be used to save about 30% weight vs inconel. The Garrett GTX range use steel billet wheels, they should be stronger (vs the casting process) and have better flow (updated wheel design) but billet steel doesn't do much for weight, they may even weigh more than the old Inconel wheels.

It would be an advantage if the shaft was ceramic (I'm not sure, I've never taken one apart), as it wouldn't transfer heat from the exhaust wheel to the compressor where a metal shaft would.

Either a vacuum line to the master brake cylinder is split/blown off or the MBC itself is leaking air, could explain why it's stalling.

Battery voltage might be too low to turn the starter motor. Or you've overheated the starter motor, given time it might cool off and work again, or trying unseizing it with a whack or 2 from a rubber mallet or a piece of wood and a hammer. At least you have the $12 you saved by not changing the spark plugs.

Ideally you want to see a range of minimum 13.0v to 14.4v maximum with it running. Compare the HKS turbo timer voltage readout with a multimeter @ the battery, the timer could be wrong. Sounds like the voltage regulator on the alternator needs replacing, that or the alternator isn't grounding properly and needs a seperate ground.

Ticking on the exhaust side is usually a gasket, either on the manifold or on the turbo or even the dump

The absolute best awesome alternative is part number by Nissan: "14483-05U00"

My 17x9's (+20 from memory) clear my front sumitomo calipers by like 2mm.

Only GTR front pipes really have flex pipes, maybe putting a piece of flex pipe on the frontpipe might help prevent this in the future.

Anything that complies with Nissan Matic D, either genuine fluid or go an autotrans fluid that meets Matic D or Matic J specs. It's alittle overfilled at the moment so it doesn't need any topping up for a long while, it only actuates the ATTESSA system so you won't need to top it up unless the system is leaking

Slipping clutch perhaps

You're going to have issues with 9.5 and 10 wide at the front, clearing the front brake calipers is the big problem.

I think your cat looks old, need to replace with a new one.

Probably overdue for a gearbox fluid change.