Moodles2

The problem with ebay specials is the fitment, the provided circlips are garbage which won't keep the gearstick in place

The difference is, the Mine's ECU might blow up the engine via over aggressive timing which even our best 98RON isn't suited for, while the stock ECU won't. Standard ECU will be fine for those mods (assuming stock turbos are fitted).

I bet the original owner blew the factory engine with the Mine's ECU. Then rebuilt it with the listed parts, and kept using it.

Compressor wheel chips I've seen from shitty chinese turbos, and also shitty highflow jobs.. the compressor material was questionable.

Aftermarket pumps don't like the factory 6v/12v switching, ideally you want them to have alternator voltage.

Genuine's C's or Nismo. Ebay specials are junk

Just noticed this on facebook: http://www.sapolicenews.com.au/component/content/article/4-news/9648-bottle-shop-hold-up.html

I recall someone on here fitting a aftermarket GTR LSD (trust IIRC), one of the GTS/GTS-t (unsure on exact one) halfshaft's were too short. I couldn't find the exact thread, but this is something similar: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/304674-what-diff-do-i-have/page__hl__lsd+halfshaft+short__fromsearch__1

It was actually NYTSKY: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/210351-nytskys-engine-build/page__view__findpost__p__6259366 But it looks like it was the Earl's fittings not the oil cooler?

I recall another report of a an Earls oil cooler cracking on here, but it might have been the OP's original report on the first core.

Rear is the issue (75mm = 3inches), general rule of thumb with exhaust is 3" for 300kw, 3.5" for 350kw etc

I have an aftermarket oil cooler which is controlled by a thermostat, but I still have the factory oil warmer/cooler fitted. Once the coolant is fully up to temp (85C) takes about 15mins of driving in summer, or 20+mins in winter, my oil will sit on approx 85C (factory gauge). But the oil temp always lags behind the coolant temp by about 5C, if my coolant temp is 75C for example, my oil temp will be 70C (which I'm assuming is the work of the factory oil warmer matching the oil temp to the coolant temp)

Middle of the coolant temp gauge means nothing on GTR clusters. It can be anything from 50C to 90C, the needle doesn't start going towards red till well over 120C.

Might want to look at brake ducts for the front, UAS make some.

Probably not working, they aren't known for their accuracy anyway, it should read the approx same temperature as the coolant temp (-/+ 5C) because oil and water both go through the oil/water separator (factory oil warmer/cooler). You should be seeing the needle starting to rise above 70C about 10 minutes into a trip. I can think of 4 things it could be. #1 Gauge isn't working #2 Oil temp sensor isn't working (might work with a good cleanout) #3 The wiring between the above 2 is damaged somewhere #4 Thermostat is stuck open or you have a Nismo thermostat (opens at 62C) which isn't allowing the coolant (and oil because of the oil/water separator) to get up to temp

Genuine Nissan Water Pump, don't bother with N1 unless it's a track car. Genuine Nissan belt. Since the belt is coming off, you may as well put adjustable cam gears on, but leave the adjustment down the track when you get a tune. Do a search for gates racing belt on this forum and you'll understand why I don't recommend them. Oil pump is a engine out job, leave it alone unless it's a car that sees the track alot, then look at Tomei, Nitto etc. Don't bother a N1 pump, quality issues in recent years is hit and miss, many N1 failures reported on newish pumps but not older ones. Cam cover seal is completely unneccessary. I don't even know what a timing belt bearing stud is, perhaps they're for the cam gears? Is so it's unnecessary. Cam/Rocker cover bolt washer kit sounds unnecessary as well. Spark plugs, either coppers if your willing to change them every 5-15k or iridiums for 15k+ (only stock power though) Engine oil, depends how much you want to spend per oil change. Motul 300V is the topend at $120ish per change, while other proper 100% synthetics are half the price (Edge, GW SynX 6000, Motul 8100 etc) Brake fluid, if it's seeing the track then one with a high boiling point (280C+) such as Motul RBF600, Castrol Response Super Dot4, Motul DOT 5.1 etc otherwise regular DOT4/DOT 5.1 is fine for street driving. Gearbox fluid, since it's a Getrag 6spd, you must put the proper fluid in (genuine Nissan or Toyota V160 since it's the same box in Supras). Beware the fluid is expensive. Radiator coolant, genuine Nissan is recommended. Diff oil (LSD oil to be exact), any good synthetic 80w90/85w90/75w90 GL5 for street driving or for the track/want the LSD to lock up more then 80w140 or a straight 140 All GTRs come equipped with 2 grenades from the factory, you'll find them on the exhaust side clearly marked Garrett. Ceramic turbo's are not something you want if doing drag racing, especially 11.99's with a big fat heavy R34. It has been reported over and over if a turbo loses it's wheel it can and will take the engine with it. Know that standard injectors can only support 300kw max (310-320kw with adjustable FPR), I don't know if 300kw is enough for a R34 GTR to do a 11.99 pass, so cleaning them might be a waste of money down the track as you will need bigger injectors for whatever power level is needed to do that 11.99 you want.

Restrictor in the wastegate piping (between boost controller and wastegate actuator) should bring the pressure down and make the wastegate open much later. Pretty sure that's how GTRs are setup from the factory.

When I contacted Jesse Streeter awhile ago, I found RHDJapan was still slightly cheaper.

You cannot reduce boost lower than the wastegate is set to, period. Only way is by physically restricting the lines

If you didn't want a lag monster, then you've got the wrong engine. A RB20 needs to rev to create power, the only way to get the response you want, is to put a RB25 engine in.

Nissan used a restrictor inside the vacuum piping (one going to the wastegate actuator IIRC) to bring boost down on GTRs (about 8-9psi with it present, 14.7psi with it gone)

You would get even more nervous if you read the oil control in RBs for circuit, drag or drift thread (in it's entirety): http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/110680-oil-control-in-rbs-for-circuit-drag-or-drift/

With #1, beware of autobahn88 gear, it's japanese copies and can be hit and miss quality-wise.

What I meant were the holes in the chassis for the intercooler piping

GTRs have holes in the chassis done at the factory, non-GTR don't have these and you pretty much make your car un-insurable when you cut these holes in the chassis yourself.