Moodles2

Is it see-through plastic (looks like silver paint on it?) like this: http://www.boostcontroller.com/index.php?item=306&ret=http%3A%2F% Then whoever you brought the car off orignally took the EBC out (most likely HKS EVC or another jap EBC that comes with these vacuum line filters) before sale and sold/kept the EBC.

I agree with above, that blue hose isn't factory, and I have no idea what that thing is between the 2 lines.. it kinda looks like a wierd ass hose joiner. Looks like no mac valve (EBC solenoid) or a bleed valve or the factory boost controller. 380-420 mmHg is 7-8psi which sounds like actuator pressure.

I'm not a fan of mixing gear oils either, I've never once read anyone on here mixing shockproof with another gear oil. It's always straight shockproof.

Do you have both Nismo clutch cylinders or just the Nismo slave + Nissan master? Also did you know Nismo/Nissan only recommend the Nismo clutch cylinders for single plate clutches? (they go to the effort on a Nismo coppermix to say to not use Nismo cylinders)

+7 on the factory gauge is 13.2psi

Have to remember an RB25 has +500cc of displacement, as well as VCT. Cam gears are a cheap mod and adjusted right can help increase response and bring that turbo on sooner without losing power

I've seen another cracked stock exhaust manifold on here, but it looked like a casting failure

A stock turbo has the benefits of.... failure of the ceramic wheel and ceramic dust taking out an engine.

EPA victoria will apply to you: http://epanote2.epa..../$FILE/1031.pdf Bare minimum fine looks like $1000 (1 penalty unit). If you knew how many penalty units having a decat would give, add 3 zero's on the end. If I had to guess, you would get 1 penalty unit for every exhaust gas (nitrogen, water vapour, carbon dioxide, carbon monoxide, hydrocarbons, particulate matter, sulfur dioxide, nitrogen oxide, ozone?, lead?) which a cat converter would otherwise have dealt with on some scale. So it's easy to see where the $10,000 fine can come from.

A highflow at 7psi (depends on the highflow profile) shouldn't trigger R&R, it might on a very very cold night.

Never tried it sorry.

I use ECUTalk (http://ecutalk.com/ecutalk.aspx), it's free and will show you what the ECU sees as the coolant temp. but you will need a consult cable though.

Check the clutch pedal support bracket isn't snapped or have any massive cracks through it.

Personally I would only use a turbo timer on cars fitted with either a oil-cooled only turbo (70s/80s turbos generally weren't water cooled) or a journal bearing turbo (especially a ceramic turbo) as they have afair amount of oil sitting inside them at any time so more likely to 'choke' the oil vs a ball bearing turbo which uses restrictors (they literally really only needs drops of oil)

It's not going to bolton a skyline so don't even bother.

HKS is probably the most copied/faked items out there, don't even bother with ebay.

How did he clean them? I hope he didn't use a blowtorch

I think I've heard of Fuji coilpacks before, someone else put them on and they were misfiring straight out the box or soemthing. Although I just found the link, the person in question actually had one of their new coilpacks die: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/407220-help-r34-rb25de-changed-coil-packs-ran-well-for-approx-40kms-then-started-misfiring-again/

If the wire to the rear of the cluster to the rpm tacho is soldered (I don't know with skyline clusters), then it's probably cracked and needs resoldering

Yep if I recall correctly, the radiator water temp sensor and the air temp sensor are the same part number.

Putting someone elses stock (ceramic) turbo on your car is taking a big risk, you don't know how it's been treated or how high boost they put through it. You're better off getting a turbo shop like Hypergear to highflow it and replace the ceramic wheel with metal ones.

All Nissan 5 speeds crunch when shifting extremely quickly at high rpm (3rd to 4th mine used to do before fluid change), solve it either by shifting slower or if that doesn't help, fluid change. If that doesn't help then the gearbox needs to be pulled apart.

5w30 is way too thin. Any RB you want 5w40 or 10w40 minimum. If it is burning any oil (and how many KM it has done), then 10w50 or even 10w60

A Stagea for example will be harder on the pads than a GTR would, just from the sheer weight of the vehicle. Red stuff is really for casual street driving, completely wrong pad for mountains/track driving. It's really a low dust economy pad, you're better off with yellowstuff if you're sticking to EBC

Ignitor module might need a better ground (clean it up etc)