Moodles2

I'm going to take a big guess, and what you're seeing might actually be injector duty cycle %?

Stock GTR advertised as having 280hp at the flywheel, this would mean 280hp at the flywheel on the entire planet except the US. In the US a stock GTR would have approx 364hp (hp + inflation of 33%) at the flywheel. The inflation is because it's cold and shit, plus because the dyno sez so.

The spring that belongs to the parkers inside the headlight switch might be stuck

Check vacuum lines to the charcoal canister, I know on R32 GTRs it's on the passenger side and mine used to blow hoses off when I hit 10+psi

Cold start in the PFC tune might need attention.

What motor to begin with, might help

You've obviously hooked it up wrong, 9-10psi sounds like actuator pressure (ie. the boost T is doing nothing)

The shockproof lineup is actually a little confusing since redline lists 2 different numbers for film thickness and fluid friction. Redline shockproof lightweight is an effective 75w140, shockproof heavyweight is an effective 75w250, shockproof superlight is the 75w90 one. People on here have used shockproof lightweight with success in the factory GTR LSD. I use the regular Redline gear oil (non-shockproof) 75w90 in my factory LSD, personally I wanted a quiet diff, didn't want any locking up around roundabouts or chirping while trying to park. Although I did talk to my mechanic about this in the past and when servicing the Aus delivered GTRs at the dealerships they used a straight SAE 140 in the front and rear diffs.

Cheap fix first, try electrical taping your coilpacks, the spark might be arcing. Does it happen even when cold, or only when the car is at operating temperature (10+ mins of driving), if it only does it while warm then you might have a faulty ignitor module (silver thing on the cam valley cover, always work fine when cold)

Where do you start... If you want the AWD system, I won't even bother mentioning everything, just get a GTR or a drop a RB26 into a GTS4. A RB25DET or a NEO RB25DET is the better option. If you have your heart set on the RB26 (a whole +70cc of displacement over a RB25) in RWD and willing to screw around, then you will need the engine obviously (with the front diff cut off) and at least a RB25 gearbox or a RB26 gearbox (with transfer case cut off) as a RB20 box can't take the power, new fuel pump, new turbos.... I'm not even going to bother continuing.

Any LSD oil that meets GL-5 specs. The Nismo LSD oil is 75W-140: http://www.rhdjapan.com/nismo-lsd-gear-oil-75w-140-1-liter-62152 . It really depends on how you want the LSD to engage, 75W-90 will probably be the best for purely street driving, the second number (90) is how the LSD will behave when it's reached operating temperature, a higher number like 140 will make the LSD engage more aggressively at slow speed (roundabouts, parking etc).

Tell him next time to forget the brakes and just dump the clutch.

I may be completely wrong, I'm looking at the exhaust wheel and it's triangle nut which makes it seem as they are actually stock ceramic turbos. Looking at: http://homepage.ntlworld.com/tbroom/Turbos.htm There's only one turbo that has 0.42 compressor A/R and 0.48 turbine A/R which makes it seem like these turbos started out their life as 270 degree journal bearing ceramic turbos from either a R32 or R33 GTR. If they are high-flows then it's probably been converted to 360 degree journal bearing at least.

As above, sounds like a slipping clutch that's well and truly foobar.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/410426-r32-climate-control/page__view__findpost__p__6557064

Every now and then Gizzmo sells brings the price down to 200-250ish, I brought mine in a similar situation afew years ago.

That's why you need a shift light with twin turbos, even with 200kw it was suprising just how often i did hit the 8000rpm limit at the track (without the shift light)

Jesse Streeter. But this was when the exchange rate was good (no idea how it is now).

It's a Mine's copy, depending on the exchange rates, I actually found genuine Mine's cam baffles were cheaper delivered than the Hi Octane ones delivered.

Follow the self diagnostic here: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/93814-r32-ac-not-cold/page__view__findpost__p__5645981

Does your ECU have an anti-lag (rally style) feature?

All a split does is create more problems, cheap ones almost always have the internal wastegate flap getting jammed against the splittter you can see in the photo that seperates the 2 streams of gases

1 bar is 14.7psi. 17psi is more ideal since you want to get as close as possible to the target 23-34psi with the actuator and get the rest of the way with the EBC.

R32 GTR snorkel is behind/below the headlight, R33/R34 are over the radiator

The new shockproof seems to climb out of breathers, afew people have reported this. I think ERD mentioned it and did everything Redline recommended by extending the breathers etc but still didn't help.