Moodles2

People on here drive around with a stock RB20 ECU powering a 26/30 for example.. don't know why though.

More boost does not mean more strain, a big ass turbo running 20psi is going to put aheck load more strain on a engine than 2 little dinky GT-SS's pushing 20psi.

Garrett boltons are a tight fit as they are, good luck trying to make those Kinugawa's work. Custom intake, custom turbo dump-back, custom water lines, custom oil lines, custom exhaust manifold. And in the end they might just suck as a pair, shuffling, surging etc.

I don't know if i've converted it right, but +1 on the stock boost gauge is alittle under 2psi. The line to the factory map sensor (black box on the firewall on the drivers side) has probably cracked and is bleeding air which could explain the low reading.

If being tracked, consider overfilling to 6 to 6.5L. Only put redline shockproof in if the box has existing crunching problems, otherwise Motul, Royal Purple or Redline (non-shockproof) are recommended.

Might need to clean out the cooler piping and intercooler, maybe install a oil catchcan to see if you've got excess blowby etc.

In the R32 GTR service manual, each corner must be bled in a specific order (as well as the ABS unit)

This is just a special mention to prospecting GTR owners who might read this thread. Filling through gearstick fills up the transfer case not the gearbox

Maybe there's a loose vacuum hose somewhere and a small object (rock, ball bearing etc) was sucked in

Apexi filters aren't oiled as far as I know, only K&N are.

90mm OD or ID?

Skyline's are not meant to misfire at all, contrary to popular belief. You have more problems than a Mine's ECU. 2 things might have happened with the octane booster 1. Destroyed either 1 or both oxygen sensors (I don't believe for a second when they advertise 'safe for oxygen sensors'). 2. Spark plugs are blackened. You're not going to be able to diagnose the problem until you get a stock ECU in there and confirm it's not the Mine's ECU causing it. Otherwise I would be looking at the crank angle sensor, coilpacks, spark plugs & coilpack ignitor.

Genuine Nissan fluid or nothing in a RB transfer case, other driveline parts a non-genuine fluid is fine but not for the transfer case. Jap tuners recommend genuine for a reason. 2 possible explanations for this 1. Your tyres are mismatched (brand or tyre wear) causing the ATTESSA system to think the rear wheels are slipping. 2. Whatever fluid you put in there is screwing it up

R33 GTS-t are the same size as R32 GTR (non v-spec) except the GTR uses a rotor that is 2mm thinner. R32 GTS-t calipers are smaller.

Higher rev limits too

Some octane boosters generally do bugger all, check this link for the ones to avoid: http://www.elanfactory.com.au/pdf/technical_information/Octane%20booster.pdf The best way to help in the mean time, is not to drive it hard. It's that easy.

Nylon compressor wheel is what R34 stock turbos have, what you have there is a bog stock turbo, if it was a highflow it would be metal.

Shell phased out V-Power Racing in 2008, it was the only 100 RON fuel that I was aware of, even then it was regular 98 + 5% ethanol to bring it up to 100. Apparently United have 100 RON (haven't seen any in SA), but it's 10% ethanol.

100 RON is available in Japan, 98 RON is available in Australia. Higher the RON, higher the knock resistance. In simple terms, the Mine's basemap at the most basic level will be based about the knock resistance of 100 RON and what can be safely done with it. Put in a lesser fuel (98 RON) and it's obvious what is going to happen.

How much fuel is left in the tank when this happens, 1/4 by any chance?

What fluid did you put in the transfer case, genuine or non-genuine?

GTR injectors (444cc) support 280kw close to max duty cycle of 100%. 850cc you have plenty of headroom, you could easily run E85 at that power level and still have headroom. Adjustable FPR will be a waste of money.

No. But we can recommend good engine rebuilders in your area if you want to keep using the Mine's ECU.

I agree, worst idea ever. Maybe the carby cleaner left in the injectors took out the oxygen sensor and now it's stuck in full lean mode (0V). Or you've damaged the injectors somehow internally and now they're in fire hose mode.