Moodles2

Ideally you would have contacted your tuner way in advance of buying an ECU to find out what they're comfortable with. Sounds like this tuner doesn't know anything about Nistune and even if he got a tune working it'll most likely be crap. In Nistune it's a simple matter of finding the AFM resizing section, accessing the dropdown box and selecting Z32.. if he can't do that then... 2 options. - Change tuner - Sell Nistune and buy PFC.

12psi on a stock ECU will hit R&R (rich and retard), probably hitting the limit of the factory sidemount also.

There has been a group buy of a UK brand kit (can't remember the company) that was in your price range.

Sometimes workshops do the dodgy and use carby hose which is rated at 50psi, just 8psi of boost will start to go beyond the hose's rating.

Actually you are right my mistake, R33 N1's are 360 degree journal bearing while the R33 stockers are 270 degree.

R32: normal GTR and V-Spec are ceramic (N1 are steel), R33: ceramic, R34: ceramic Differences R32's are 270degree journal bearing R33's are the same but ball bearing R34's are the same as R33's but a slightly different turbo design (different compressor housing) R34 N1's are Garrett -7s which use an inconel wheels (mix of nickel and steel which results in a lighter wheel) R32/R33 N1's/Nismo's are old laggy 80s tech with steel wheels

If they are copper spark plugs they need to be changed. You can isolate the O2 sensor by unplugging it. Although it sounds like a boost/vacuum leak

People have reported the ceramic wheel coming off while cruising down the highway at like 1-2psi. The moral of the story is that it can come off, even when not doing something silly. Running ceramic turbos you always need to keep in the back of the mind there is a slight possibility of it happening when giving it a bootfull. Replacement Garretts (-7's, -9's, -5's) will set you back ~$2200 for a set of twins, then looking at an entire weekend if done with mates or approx 8-10hrs for a workshop to do the swap (800+ in labour). New exhaust manifold gasket, various turbo gaskets, oil change, coolant change, oxygen sensors you need to add to the equation as well, maybe adjustable wastegate actuators as well, also an aftermarket oil drain kit for the turbos like GCG sells (the factory turbo oil drains will need modifying, if your modification isn't perfect they will leak).

Plenty of single plate options. NPC, Jim Berry "full monty", Exedy. Organic type or cushioned button is probably the type you want.

Was a actuator from a stock turbo used?

Check/replace the 10A fuse for the 4WD in the cabin fusebox

Check timing is correct

It's not really a electronic boost control, yes the solenoid (mac valve) is powered by electricity but that's it, effectively it's just a manual boost T. The knob will only adjust the duty cycle of the solenoid, all the way to one extreme being 0% and the other being 100%. Any "smart" electronic boost controller does open or closed (sometimes both) loop so no gain control on this "EBC" or any kind of boost stabilization etc

I use Sougi S6000 (still have supply for one more oil change) and as far as it went with replacing my regular oil Motul 8100 X-Cess, I couldn't fault it all. Good oil pressure when cold and hot, built pressure quickly at startup, still looked good after I dumped it at 5000km (no sludge, was black but didn't stink of fuel), idled smooth as it did with Motul (often I had to check my RPM while waiting at traffic lights as I couldn't feel it idling, kinda felt like the engine had stalled). Years before I even heard of Sougi, I had some cheap GW XMP ($5 something at supercheap) lying around I never got around to using as I had a 4 cyl shitbox before my skyline, I offered to do an oil change on my neighbours car (4cyl shitbox). It was a completely different animal putting the oil in, before it violently shook, could feel it through the steering wheel really bad just idling and the loose plastic interior panels sounded god awful not to mention the engine sounded like shit. After the change, engine sounded healthy again and idled smoothly which god rid of that nasty vibration.. I wasn't expecting this at all from what I perceived as nasty $5 oil. Even my neighbour thought I did more than just change the oil and filter. These 2 experiences personally give me have confidence in the GW brand, I only use it in my skyline because others have used it with success. If I run out of S6000 and Syn-X 6000 isn't available nearby, I'll give Penrite's 10 Tenths range a try, if that doesn't work I'll go back to Motul.

In the $30~ range I would only touch GW or Penrite. If you put something in like Magnatec then I would say to swap it out immediately for something better.

bottom of the radiator generally means it's the one that switches the A/C fan on when temps exceed 95Cish

It may be possible there is too much oil and it's hitting the crank when the oil is being pressed against the side of the engine mid-dift? although the oil would look like foam

AFM element burns hot on shutdown, burns off anything attached to it (oil, condensation etc). Shudder can be as mentioned above, firing on 5 cylinders throwing the engine out of balance.

Watch out for The King, he's super fast... here's how you beat him:

I thought Poncams fit without modification, while Procams need modification.

Get that receipt, list everything done. Then we might actually be able to help. RB oil filter changes are notorious for being a complete pain in the ass, a careless mechanic can easily damage a vacuum hose causing the motor to overboost and hit R&R.

An early R32 GTR might be faster than a late R32 GTR due to weight as the early ones lack safety things like side intrusion bars for example which the late ones do.

HKS pods are good at stopping rocks.. but that's it

Oh god enough with the harry potter stuff. Hissing is usually a vacuum leak, if it is hissing near the FPR then you need to check that hose for splits ASAP

If using the RB26 ECU, ABS probably won't work as ABS is built into the ATTESSA ECU which normally resides in the GTR boot.