Moodles2

As I said before, MV Automatics, they are in SA and if I had any auto box problems I couldn't diagnose/fix I would be taking it to them.

This is really all I could come up with. Pod (in comparison with airbox + good filter) Pros: - Sound. (can be a con if you don't want loud intake noise) - Ever so slight power gain at best (non-GTR airboxes I've read and I'm remembering from vague memory aren't a restriction till around 330kw, GTR owners even keep the stock airbox beyond the 400kw mark) - Ever so slight response increase Cons: - Unshielded will draw in hot air, negating any power increase. (Require additional CAI ducting to stop enginebay air being used) - Filtration can be non-existent with some brands (HKS mushroom pods aka rock stoppers for example) FMIC (in comparison with SMIC) Pros: - Virtually no heatsoak (in turn can help prevent the engine knocking) - Cooler charge, more power at the same boost level Cons: - Slightly less throttle response (some people report no response loss, sometimes even better response) - Might need reo-bar trim to install (can be a can of worms with roadworthy-ness)

My voltage will sit around 13.1-13.4v (idle) and I don't have any problems, but I've never seen it dip into 12.x before. It may be worth cleaning out the AAC valve (R32s it's not as easy to do as later generations), since when the heater or aircon is turned on, the ECU will compensate by opening up the AAC to let more air in.

12psi on a stock ECU? try turning down the boost

They're $1850 on rhdjapan, add $187 for shipping ($2040 all up). Although that's no guarantee you won't get strung by import taxes as jesse streeter pointed out to me:Q. Does the final price include VAT or any import tax? A. We are a registered company here in Japan and cannot charge these taxes. Please familiarize yourself with your local import rules and regulations to see if there are any other taxes when you get your items delivered to your door.

RB25's have hydraulic lifters, it's possible the previous owner used something thick like 20w50 to mask the noise before you bought it.

-9's

www.performancelub.com for Redline (or sprint autos)

It's a fake, if you look at the below link, you will notice it doesn't have the "Nissan" stamp (near where it says 'flow') nor any mention of it being made by Bosch or JECS. Read: http://forum.nistune.com/viewtopic.php?f=12&t=1431 To quote "The USA's got a dedicated counterfeit unit to weed out these companies - now they've taken NISSAN off the body and it's sold as a non genuine part."

When people put aftermarket fuel pumps in (Walbro, Bosch etc), those pumps tend to not like the tank being down to 1/4. This is to do with how the pump is physically mounted inside the tank, can explain why the car "ran out of fuel" with 1/4 left (on the assumption the gauge is 100% correct).

Measure each filters dimensions and search through the K&N catalogue (or contact them with the dimensions in hand)

Were the standard manifolds port matched to the turbos? Usually it's recommended to keep the lip (for response) with -7's and -9's but to remove that lip for 350kw+

Check out MV Automatics, best place to get jap autoboxes looked at. I would be suspecting the transmission service, what fluid did they use, was it Genuine Nissan fluid or wasn't genuine, if it wasn't genuine did it conform to the correct fluid that autobox requires (Matic-D, Matic-J etc)

Stock cover or an aftermarket cover (clear etc) ?

It sounds like the engine had a rebuild, and the engine builder just left the old crank, pistons, bearings, rods, head gasket, rings, restrictors, head bolts, oil pump, collar etc sitting on the bottom of the sump.. might account for the irregular oil capacity

My sards didn't come with collars, I think only the side-feed applications (RB25 etc) need collars

Sard 700's have the correct plug and will fit straight into the stock rail. Sard 800's have the wrong plug (but they are included) and might fit straight into the stock rail

I assume it is getting tuned at the same time the chip is being installed?

Sounds like you need to hookup a fuel pressure gauge and see what if pressure is dropping when this happens. (will rule out fuel pump and the FPR at least)

Define "tuning", are you doing it with the stock ECU? If so I'm guessing you're adjusting the CAS? then that is laughable and I wouldn't be going back to that workshop.

If it's any help, from what I remember the 4 bolts that screw the ignitor to the coil cover, the ground wire uses one of them

Clean out the AAC valve, and look for a aftermarket BOV

Gearbox fluid change perhaps.

Under the steering column should be the fuse area (fuse cover pulls out), inside will be the CONSULT port.

Injector sizes are different that's the obvious part, but the injector latency will be completely different. The aftermarket injector having a completely different lag time vs the factory injector, those 550cc's might be injecting too early or too late than the factory ECU is expecting which will most likely explain why it can't idle.