Moodles2

Do you know if the factory fuel pump has been replaced with a Bosch or Walbro fuel pump? If so they don't take too kindly to the fuel levels reaching 1/4 left (to do with the physical mounting position inside the tank and the sock attached to the bottom of the pump). That said, a fuel pump has to work harder when the tank is nearly empty vs a full tank.

I've always waited till Repco do their motul 20% off and grabbed X-Cess for $65 (AUD) for 5L (I haven't done this in awhile as I've still got plenty of GW Suigi S 6000 to use up). From what I can tell about that particular RP product that it might just be a semi-synth (comparable to Motul 4100 Turbolight).. as far as I know only the RP XPR racing oil is fully synthetic (which would be comparable to X-Cess). That being said there is absolutely nothing wrong with a good semi-synth on a street-only driven skyline, as long as it's changed every 6 months or 5000km.

I've seen it mentioned on here before, it's a aftermarket servicing indicator when it's due for a 5k service etc

0.6 is maybe too high, 0.45v is where it should be at idle

Try cleaning up the chassis earth

R32 and R33 RB26DETT genuine filters are/were Z145a sized, but with the R34 the genuine filter was much smaller (same thread etc).

I run a Earl's inline thermostat and it is always open 10% when cold

I run one of those from wrxhoon in my GTR (technically they're designed for uninterrupted power supplies), I've never had a problem with it, never ran flat and always starts first time.

VL turbo alternator, bolts straight in

I had no idea HKS did front pipes in mild steel, I was 99% sure they only did stainless steel.

Whatever you do, don't put that chemiweld shite in to "repair" it.

Telltale of a highflowed stock turbo is the compressor intake, the wall will be super thin.

Sard 700's have the right plugs and are direct fit, but a can be a tight squeeze into the stock rail

Most likely the AFM plug needs looking at.

As far as N1 parts go, I was sure they are still cast like the factory items only stronger. Cast != Forged.

http://justjap.com/store/product.php?productid=18587&cat=&page=1

I agree with the above. Magnatec is the ass end of motoroils. just google "magnatec sludge" If you actually read the thread at all before calling us muppets, you would have known there is a cheaper source for Amsoil... http://performancelub.com/Amsoil%20pricelist.htm

If you're going to get a cable, at least get a decent one like: http://ecutalk.com/interface.aspx I've read so many people having dramas with cheap/poorly made cables.

Disconnect the O2 sensor plug, it will run rich but will confirm if the O2 sensor is the problem.

BOV

Usually it takes 2-3 teeth, 1 tooth usually just makes the engine sluggish and lazy

I know justjap sells them, but they are pricey: http://justjap.com/store/product.php?productid=18587&cat=&page=1

The controller was sending pulses (confirmed by led test light), but the solenoid wasn't responding. Had to send the whole unit (controller + solenoid) back and got a new controller & solenoid which has been running flawless for 2 years.

The MAC valve that came with my unit stopped working after 5-10mins on the dyno, but I haven't had a problem with my MS-IBC since then.

R32s take a sensor with 12mm thread, R33s and beyond take 18mm threaded sensors. It's possible you either have a stock dumppipe from a R33/R34 or it's an aftermarket dump that looks stock?