Moodles2

Better yet, a 250cc motorbike

Copy and paste from earlier in the thread, you will have quite alot of shockproof left over if only doing both diffs: Front final drive (page CH-125) - Nissan gear oil hypoid GL-5 85W-90 [approx. 1.0 litre] Rear final drive (page CH-125) - Nissan gear oil hypoid LSD GL-5 80W-90 [approx. 1.5 litres]

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/379620-putting-r33-gtr-into-rwd/

I had same problem when I had my Nismo lines fitted, I didnt notice a leak but I noticed 24hrs after my fluid was about 4mm below the max line. Mechanic tightened up all 4 corners and since then I haven't lost a drop

You can't do the R32 RWD fuse trick on a R33, R33 transfer cases have preload which will damage the transfer case if the fuse is pulled. When A R33 or R34 is put on a dyno either the front drive shaft is removed or the driver's air bleed trick is used to put it safely into RWD mode. Also pulling the 4WD fuse, you loose ABS as well. Even with a R32, pulling the fuse while in motion is a recipe for disaster.

General rule of thumb is for each 1cc supports 1hp, so 270cc being a theoretical max of 270hp.. in the real world it will be more likely 240-250hp

You can't track 320kw without an oil cooler, especially in australian weather, well you can but it will only take afew laps at that power to get the oil to 110C+. As for protecting the oil cooler, you could use a duct in the bumper and use intercooler mesh in front of the core.. or alternatively mount it between the intercooler and radiator.. but obviously this isn't the most ideal place with the hot air coming off the intercooler, and in turn the hot air coming off the oil cooler and finishing on the radiator, but people still mount it there.

I put shockproof light in my front diff (only because i used it in the gearbox), and redline gear oil 75w90 in the factory LSD (didnt want shockproof to tighten up the LSD at low speed) cheapest for redline oils is from performancelub.com

iirc Redline doesn't recommend putting any additives in their gear oils.

Nismo AFMs 0kw, only when you max out the stock AFMs at approx 300kw will Nismo AFMs be necessary. Cams don't add power, they shift the power further up the RPM range while losing low to mid response, if you intend to use using higher revs (4-5k+) a majority of the time then cams are what you want. Cam gears will only add power if they are specifically set to that while ignoring response. Most people prefer to use cam gears to improve midrange, but can gain 5-15kw I guess.

VCT won't function until the engine has reached a minimum temperature, is the coolant temp sensor functioning?

Heavy IMO is for gearboxes that crunch every gear no matter what.. the type of gearbox that needs replacing or a rebuild ASAP but you want to mask the problems (ie. don't want to hear the crunching anymore). Heavy will mask the crunch, light will prevent it happening (did in my case)

Heavyweight is for gearboxes that are f**ked already, lightweight to fix existing crunching

I have a Feb 1994 build non V-Spec and I have the same as early GTRs, sumitomo calipers (ie. not brembos).

Stock ECU?

310kw with -5's at 17.5psi..... it should be making more power than that, you would expect 330-350 If there really is a "19 psi map", that means the owner put 350-370kw of power through a pair of stock AFMs that will only support 300-310kw max. Sure you can tune around them slightly, but not that much

Transfer cases have been damaged by GTR owners running mismatched tyres/rim sizes, it wouldn't take long at all to ruin the clutch packs with a permanent 50/50 split.

I know with RB26 TPS', the ECU expects the voltage when 0% throttle is approx 0.43 and roughly 4.4 with 100% throttle. Try adjusting the TPS with the engine off until it reads 0.4x volts with no throttle

Best to read this: http://books.google.com.au/books?id=uqjTj_6z6cQC&pg=PA133&lpg=PA133&dq=second-generation+HICAS&source=bl&ots=hBHyO2z7UA&sig=9uQ6fhKO2OjzZIP7MPtb3gkdEJI&hl=en&ei=S7-WTvmGNMaYiAfzqLjCBQ&sa=X&oi=book_result&ct=result&resnum=3&ved=0CDoQ6AEwAg#v=onepage&q=second-generation%20HICAS&f=false R32, R33 and R34 each have different HICAS system, which all behave differently.. Since you list R33 in profile, you would want to read the third-generation HICAS aka Super HICAS.

When working correctly does help handling, for an average driver can be the difference between putting the car into the kerb or avoiding it. But the counter-steering effect is most noticable at the track, and for experienced track drivers this can interfere with their counter-steering. Or if you are purposely making the back end slide out, HICAS will attempt to straighten you out. When not working correctly is actually quite dangerous, and instead of trying to fix it people just buy a lockbar to stop HICAS from being able to counter-steer.

Depends who built the 32's motor, I personally would take an unopened Nissan RB over a engine a random engine builder has put together, unless than builder has successfully put together many RBs

The split design everybody has ripped off from HKS. The culprits being X-Force, CES, OBX, autobahn888 etc.. unfortunately they all have ripped off a flawed design. The split is just too short at approx 5-6" (I can't find the info I've read in the past, but Garrett's research has said there is no benefit to rejoining the wastegate and main exhaust gases until at least 12-18" down the main exhaust pipe)

If the CAS isn't put back on perfectly (flush and with the correct spacing), it will prematurely wear out the bearing inside the CAS ultra quick

Not changing the oil for that ammount of time is bad, but it's even worse when there is a turbocharger or 2 involved, it's quite common oil seals (rear main being one of them) have deteriorated and all that is holding those seals together is the sludge from the old oil. If you do the timing belt, do the whole 100,000km service (belt, tensioner + idler pulley, both cam seals and the crank seal, water pump). Since the previous owner didn't GAF, I think these 2 are important: brake and clutch fluid. While these should be done for peace of mind: front and rear diff, transfer case and gearbox too if it's hard to shift gears or crunches gears. As for oil go with something very detergent heavy, it might even be worth getting some cheap oil in the correct weight (10w40) and using it to flush out the crap before putting a good oil in. It's very lucky the engine hasn't spun a bearing actually.

It might be possible it will chew through more fuel when running 91 running on those said knock maps, than 98.. even on 91 I wouldn't dare go up a hill or put any kind of load whatsoever on the engine (even beyond 4000rpm on a level road)