Moodles2

Skylines have a 6v/12v regulator on the fuel pump, Walbro pumps work ok'ish at 12v, and hate 6v even more (idle/low load). Give it direct alternator voltage and see if it still happens.

I've been told shifting through gear with the gearbox oil dumped helps get off what remaining fluid is still on the synchros

Mostly from what I've gathered reading the engine failure thread over the years, is usually one of the following: - turbo failure, ceramic exhaust wheel is jettisoned into the catalytic converter and ceramic dust makes it way into the cylinder bores via the exhaust valves. (it may have been mentioned by a builder or tuner that they've seen this happen 25% of the time) - spun bearing, poor choice of oil or poor maintenance or not overfilling (sump emptied, resulting in oil starvation or due to no upgraded oil sump baffling) or just plain unlucky (or all 4) - oil pump failure. limiter bashing (hard ignition cut). early short oil drive crank more susceptible to failure than the long oil drive due to smaller oil pump <-> crank surface face. Newish N1 oil pumps are considered junk (it's speculated that manufactoring process different from early N1 pumps) - poorly assembled "built" engines that go pop easily. pays to have a engine builder who has built hundreds of RBs (red r racing etc), not a shop that is learning as they go on your engine. Personally I would take an unopened factory engine over an RB put together by a random shop.. common thing with "built" engines is bearing clearances completely wrong - 100,000km service gone wrong. wrong belt tension (belt skips teeth and pistons meet valves), or balancer not torqued to spec and working itself loose (which the oil pump relys on) or even not bothering to do the full service and leaving the factory fitted tensioners etc fitted which then seize. - Poor tune, especially Jap ECUs, often brought off ebay and put into cars without checking it on the dyno, especially Mine's... completely unsuitable for australian fuel/conditions

cost $200 for a genuine sensor (maybe $100ish for an aftermarket one): http://www.kudosmotorsports.com/catalog/nissan-lambda-oxygen-sensor-genuine-nissan-skyline-r34-25gt-25gt4-25gtt-stagea-wgc34-rsv-stagea-wgnc34-rsfour-series-p-187.html how hard to replace? fairly easy as long as you have a oxygen sensor socket like (or can borrow one): http://www.kudosmotorsports.com/catalog/lisle-socket-oxygen-sensor-lisle-22mm-p-640.html

Gizzmo make a phenolic intake gaskets

R33 N1 and R32 Nismo are both an old turbo design and are journal bearing and really should be avoided altogether. Spool time, laggy as. Better off with Garrett -5's if you want 340kw+ http://homepage.ntlworld.com/tbroom/Turbos.htm

Diesel oils are very detergent heavy, possibly why people run Delvac in petrol engines?

^ No, but there is a IQ sensor near the driver in the cabin that could prompt that light

You're not going to be able to build any positive pressure at all in neutral anyway. If it's being rev limited @ 2500rpm then in all likelyhood the car is in limp home mode and I would be getting the error code from ECU, will confirm if it's the AFM or not, and if It is the AFM it could be something as simple as the solder joints in the AFM need to be resoldered.

I would guess maybe electric windows, pull the fuse and find out what stops working.

Has the piping between the AFM and turbo been changed? Possible AFM reversion if so. Try unplugging the AFM to see if it does the same (will go into limp home mode and be rev limited to 2500). Are you sure a rag or something wasn't left in the piping or the intercooler?

Where are you taking the timing from, the loop at the back of the engine or coil #1? And what timing light is it (cheap, decent etc)?

I know a R33 GTR owner that took off a bar underneath the car that goes from the passenger to drive side, claimed it weighed a fair bit and didn't affect handling (well that he noticed anyway)

I guess with an adapter using the RB25 sump is do-able, just the pickup will require findling to get right, check (although it seems cutting off the front diff is a better option): http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/358496-sump-adapters-rb26-block-to-use-rwd-sump/

OEM sensor is very accurate, the conversion from digital signal to analog the cluster gauge displays isn't.

Which "electronics parts", ignition or battery: http://www.psiparts.com.au/downloads/R32%20Fuse%20Box.pdf

As far as I'm aware, N1 pistons are cast. There shouldn't be a difference between Nur and N1 pistons, since the Nur R34 GTRs have N1 gear (block, pistons etc)

Nismo injectors are made by Denso (custom ordered). Sard, HKS etc. injectors are Denso injectors, but repackaged. Those aftermarket repackaged injectors tend to be single hole, whereas I have yet to see a single hole Nismo injector (always at least 2 holes, usually 4). So physically they will look the same, black body with a colored top.. the big difference is the spray patterns.

Another thing with the RB26, you need to mess around with sumps, as you can't just drop an RB26 in (with a AWD sump) attached to the the RB25 driveline.

I have a MTX-L as well, I haven't got around to welding a wideband bung into cat (pre-cat) yet

1. the sender or the gauge is malfunctioning. 2. you were ripped, air/fuel gauges run off narrowband sensors are useless.. there are only 3 possibilities.. stoich, rich or lean

If you insist on 5w30, probably best to use it in winter, and use a 10w40 in summer.

Has the gearbox had an oil change anytime in your ownership? I used to get a similar crunch changing from 2nd to 3rd at the track which was solved with redline shockproof lightweight (the oil which came out was completely black)

Could try rapidly cooling the ignition amplifier with some ice cubes on top to test it, when they are worn out they tend to only do it when hot.

Genuine Nissan hoses is the best way to go, cons of cheap silicone kits is most people have complained that they develop pin hole leaks, even when replacing that hose with another. Gates hoses on the Upper and Lower radiator are cheaper than genuine, and come with decent clamps.