Moodles2

I'm curious as to why the spark plugs were regapped, if they weren't misfiring, why change the gap?

Sounds like an electrical connector is loose, I would start with the ECU

It may start, but I don't think you'll be able to go anywhere as the auto shifting logic is within the ECU

Is there such thing as making the oil drains too big?

It's a RB26DET (not RB26DETT as it only has 1 turbo): Twin MAFs, stock intake manifold with stock fuel regulator (doesn't look like its hooked up). From either a R32 or a R33 because of black valley cover and rocker covers

75w90, 80w90, 85w90, 75w85 all 4 will do as they are pretty much sameness. As long as the gear oil conforms to at least GL-4 (GL-5 is fine too). If i recall correctly GTST's have a viscous LSD which means the LSD component is sealed and don't need an LSD specific oil, whereas GTRs have hypoid LSDs which require a LSD compatible oil.

+1 mmHg = 2.8psi (you probably mean +7 mmHg which is about 13.2psi) 1 bar = 14.5psi

I wouldn't touch that AFM, looks too cheap to be true, and who the hell is "AIP Electronics". There's no gaurantee has the exact same calibration as a genuine JECS made AFM.. I would only go with genuine AFMs made by JECS

Go Nitto gaskets, alot cheaper than jap ones and just as good. I think I paid about $170 for my metal inlet manifold, ITBs and exhaust manifold gasket kit from CRD ages ago

If you are smelling fuel, check for fuel stains near the injectors, and check that you haven't blown any hoses off the charcoal canister (does happen)

R32 common problem is with the servo actuator motor near passenger kick panel, the cold solder goes in the pins inside the plug causing it to not receive power unless the plug is physically pushed in. Wherever the last position the motor had power determines whether you are stuck with hot or cold air, Search for the R32 service manual, it has the method on how to put the climate control into diagnostic mode so you know exactly what isn't working. Have a read of this thread: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/236745-r32-airconditioning-not-working/page__view__findpost__p__4143375

R34 V-Spec II's (maybe other late model R34s like the N1, Nur etc might too) have a larger rear rotor (322mm vs 300mm). otherwise they are pretty much identical setup. Pointless swap if trading the non-322mm version.

5 seconds is 4 seconds too long

Contact GSL Rallyspot a forum sponsor on here for pads and rotors, not hard to find as he has his own section. I would say an educated guess would about 400-500 (I might even be wrong) for new front rotors and pads to suit. As for labour it shouldn't be more than 1-2hrs

I've read superlight has been recommended by redline for getrag 6 speed, it's yellow though, light is blue (aka smurfsblood)

It's not the problem of high revs, it's the problem of the hard fuel cut causing stress on the oil pump gears when they smash together. As long as you aren't using something stupid as a Bee*R limiter which is guaranteed to destroy the oil pump, otherwise the odd trip to redline shouldn't hurt the engine unless you are holding it on redline.

2 sensors in the radiator, upper one is for the ECU, the lower one is for automatically triggering the A/C fan when the coolant temp reaches 95C+

A driver that understands to shift gear at peak power, not redline.

As far as I understand, the fluid is only for actuating the mechanical ATTESSA pump, it's not actually lubricating anything.

ATF is closer to engine oil than it is to a gear oil, ATF is anything between 10W to 10W30, gear oil is closer to 75w-90 to 75w140 (shockproof light which is effectively a 75w140)

Put it on a dyno, it shouldn't loose power at high revs (at least until 6800-7000rpm) unless there is some kind of problem like a blocked cat, or a boost leak, or fuel surge etc.

Using gear oil in a box that requires ATF fluid, do you want to ruin your getrag?

The aim of that cable I think is to draw power from the USB slot rather than the CONSULT port to power the cable

With an R33 GTR ECU you want Zirconia-based oxygen sensors, and with R32 GTR ECU you want a Titania-based sensor. NTK OTD2F == titania NTK OZA395 == zirconia Don't put zirconia sensors with an ECU that expects titania sensors and vice versa

I agree with above, hi-flow job with massive loose tolerance on the exhaust wheel.. i'd even guess there was 3-4mm clearance