Moodles2
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Everything posted by Moodles2
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For a run of the mill RB20DET, I'd run a decent semi-synth (not magnatec, basically anything $30+) 10W-40 and change it religiously at 5k or 6 months
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If you haven't read this thread already, you might be interested: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/332068-help-me-install-my-new-hicas-controller/
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Designed to leak yes, at idle. Reason? I can't remember
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I've read somewhere (maybe a tuner on here mentioned it), someone did a expensive buildup and got it tuned etc. Replaced all the rubber vacuum hoses with blue silicon (cheap or decent silicone i'm unsure).. well anyway the one on the fuel reg blew off and destroyed the engine.
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Should be in a black bag, in the boot check the spare wheel area under the carpet or the little compartment (plastic panel with a lift up tab) on the passenger side (where the jack will be hidden)
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Yeah right. Don't come back and post on here after you fit atmo BOVs while still running air flow meters and find your car is stalling when the throttle is closed (stopped at lights), black spark plugs, blowing lots of black smoke and running like crap.
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What 33Gtr Parts Are A Straight Fit To The Gts-T?
Moodles2 replied to ausdrift's topic in General Maintenance
Rad cap is a direct swap, oil cap too i think, oil sump plug as well. R33 gtr oil should fit straight into a gts-t with no problems, hard part is finding a GTR owner willing to drain their 5000km oil and give to you. -
I noticed I had abit less pedal travel when trying to mash the peddal to the firewall with the cusco stopper, depends on the age and how far travelled the car is.
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I've noticed my A1RM's are pretty abrasive on my RDA rotors as well (slotted), 2 or 3 track days and the slots are about 2-3mm deep from the face of the rotors
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If an oil cooler is going on, you might want to do a accusump while your at it to help keep the stocker alive.
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Clean out the AAC valve if you can
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RHDJapan.com will be cheaper than getting one from a Nissan dealership
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Put an aftermarket oil pressure gauge in, relying on the stock gauge will just give you a headache and might waste money when other oils just indicate the exact same thing on it.
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You may have the common problem with cheap chinese silicon kits, they weep and develop pinhole leaks
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As for installing, it only takes 5mins max to get the ECU out of the car, same ammount to get back in. To do the daughterboard install inside the ECU probably didn't take Matt (Nistune owner) more than 15mins to solder it in, someone competent with micro-soldering shouldn't take more than an hour. As for how long the tune will take, depends on the tuner (just a max power tune, or taking the time to do low/mid cruise etc)
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more than 10% variance between ajoining cylinder's is generally bad for RBs, I would be perfectly happy with comp results like that.
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Can A R33 Gtr Intercooler Go On A Gtst?
Moodles2 replied to zachurley's topic in Engines & Forced Induction
Nothing a afew zip ties can't solve... although you will need to cut a hole in the chassis on the cold side of the intercooler which might cause issues down the track if the car is defected and a full inspection required, GTRs have this hole done at the factory -
I have 2 different globes, one is 4500k (white) and the other is 3000k (yellow)... as far as visibility goes, the 3000k (left headlight) has more range, about 1/4 more
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The further you go away from white/yellow (around 3000-3500k), when you go whiter (above 4000k and beyond), the worse vision will get.. 10000k is asking to be pulled over and defected
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My battery is about 400cca, the BMW one mentioned was about 900-950cca
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When I had my 100,000km service done, we used a breaker bar against the chassis. My battery wasn't enough to do the job, but his big ass BMW battery (I think from a 4WD) loosened it first try
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The frontone should have the most abrupt bend from the front turbo's exhaust attachment, so to clear the compressor cover of the rear turbo.
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Choose a tuner, ask what ECU or ECUs they prefer, buy that ECU. Cheapest option is Nistune: www.nistune.com In the end the tune (and tuner) is more important than ECU selection. Don't bother with a mapped ECU (especially Mine's), unless you want to destroy your engine, although we are quite happy to provide contact details of engine builders to rebuild your engine.
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http://www.streetcommodores.com.au/news/01_oils_aint_oils.php You may want to edit out the link to that oil test article that even street commodores admitted that it was irrelevant, unless you like looking like an idiot.
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Why 60, is it a track only car or was the engine built for that tolerance (loose)?