Moodles2

Testing resistance on a O2 sensor will actually damage it, possibly even kill it.

Possibly related to worn engine mounts or gearbox mounts

I've been told the VL alternator will bolt on, but I can't remember about the wiring though

I can't remember the date exactly, i just remember roughly about 12 months ago.. awhole bunch of people started to post about shockproof exiting out their box's breather

White is a telltale sign of coolant. It's either coming from the radiator, the turbo water feed that goes across the timing cover (this might be GTR specific, I don't know if RB25's have this or not) or a pinhole leak in the upper or lower radiator hose.

Are you bleeding each corner their in the correct order? (I can't remember the actual order, would have to check the service manual)

I read maybe 12 months back, there was a bad batch of shockproof. I've been running shockproof lightweight for 2 or more years and it's never spat a drop out the breathers

bigger turbo, virtually no response at all, no difference in engine stress. 300kw from a medium sized turbo and 300kw from a big turbo is the exact same stress on the engine. big turbos flow more air than a smaller turbo at the same pressure.

Edge is a semi-synth, Edge Sport is supposed to be a group 4 synthetic.. but there is a catch, some of the ones labelled Edge Sport arern't actually what they appear to be (25W50 is suposed to be one of them a basic mineral oil, 5W30 is supposedly a group 3 semi-synth)

If the rev limit is 8500rpm, the factory limiter is 8000rpm on GTR ECUs, so I would imagine the RB25DET would be the same or lower. It most likely is a Mine's ECU, or a jap aftermarket chip at least.. jap tuners set the rev limit high to avoid the hard cut smashing the oil pump gears.

As far as factory injectors go, I thought R32/R33 injectors had a plastic body, while the R34 injectors had a metal body? I'm not 100% on this though.

Garrett uses Inconel wheels on their BB turbos (-7, -9, -10, -5, and most likely R34 N1's), pretty sure Inconel is a heck lot lighter than whatever grade of steel the "N1 spec" kits use. "N1 spec" with thrust bearing + steel wheel + even with the smaller housings, the genuine R34 N1 would easily outflow them and most likely even be less laggier.

Gates hoses (upper and lower) for the radiator, and genuine Nissan for others

Big difference is the plenum, GTR being a forward facing plenum has all kinds of wierd hoses specific to it, like coolant running to the ITBs so they dont freeze shut etc. Those cheap silicon hoses people tend to report they develop pin hole sized leaks

Power Enterprise and Sard repackage the same Denso injectors.

Don't bother with Tomei mainfolds, the stock manifolds can do 400kw (port matched to the -5's). I used stock manifolds on my -9's but didn't modify them (left the lip there for response) due to my installer and workshop recommendation. More ideal setup for 350kw+, is 70mm dumps, 2x 70mm to 3.5" frontpipe, 3.5" high flow cat (100 or 200 cell), and 3.5" catback. If you have stock R32 dumps on you might want to upgrade to aftermarket 70mm dumps or stock R34 dumps at the very least. Aftermarket frontpipe is definetly recommended, I've measured the stock R32 frontpipe has 55mm inlets and a 70mm outlet. Same thing as the HKS adjustables actuators, a-heck lot cheaper: http://gcg.com.au/index.php?option=com_virtuemart&page=shop.product_details&flypage=flypage.tpl&category_id=39&product_id=556&Itemid=1

These come in handy: http://ecutalk.com/consultlcd.aspx

Check the group buy section, last I checked there is an ongoing groupbuy for RDA rotors and pads etc.

Gates and OEM rubber is different (even with cam and crank seals), Gates use a hard rubber (explains noise) while OEM is much softer. In the end what matters the most is the installation of the belt itself, do it right first time and you won't need to worry about it for another 10 years or 100,000km. When it came to do my 100,000km service, I went with what my mechanic recommended (ex Nissan Foreman), genuine Nissan belts and seals. He has genuine Nissan gear in his 32 GTR and tracks it with a built motor.

At the factory they use a black sealant (maybe it starts off a different color and turns black who knows) on the ITB butterfly shafts to stop air being sucked in.

The balancers main function really in my opinion is to protect the oil pump (the gears in particular), N1 balancers are an option on a budget (middleground between a stocker and a aftermarket balancer)

Take it back, either cold start or hot start aren't quite right.

I wouldn't bother topping up whatever oil is in there, I would do a oil change + filter and put new oil in, a decent 10w40 (is what you want for any RB) semi-synth like motul 4100 turbolight (lots of people have success with this one) or the cheaper gw syn-x 3000 and keep an eye on oil use. Only then if it's still burning through oil, it might need looking at (compression tested etc), going up to a 15w50 or 10w60 might prevent the oil use, they just aren't ideal for a street driven RB.

Z32 ecu should plug straight in, some wires will need to be switched (injectors 4 & 6 iirc)

800's will need new plugs, 700's have the right plug