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Moodles2

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Everything posted by Moodles2

  1. If you have a N1 waterpump, they can leak out the elongated hole if not sealed properly.
  2. Can the sump be cut out with the k-frame still on, and welded back on (I think that's what the Trust sump extension does)?
  3. Choose your tuner, then choose the ECU they prefer. It's as simple as that. You can use a R32 ECU + Nistune but you won't have VCT control (will need to be done by a external window switch), whereas Z32 ECU + Nistune will have VCT control.
  4. They are a tight fit, I have the same except repackaged (black body, blue top) by Sard.
  5. I think green-label RB25 AFMs max out at 200kw, I'm not sure if that's a theoretical max or a proven max.
  6. Possibly previous owner had some sort of triggered air/meth injection or intercooler spray kit that triggers at high rpm but ripped it out when it was sold?
  7. It's a fully synth fluid by Redline, Shockproof Lightweight, effectively a 75w140 gear oil. Uses some special additive to prevent gear crunching (teflon, ptfe who knows) Personally I only use it because the previous fluid I was using (genuine nissan fluid) had a gear crunch between 3rd and 4th at the track, shockproof lightweight got rid of that crunch.
  8. My bad I didn't notice it was a RB25, I thought we were dealing with ITBs
  9. Don't clean that stuff off the throttlebodies, unless you want idle problems
  10. Oxygen sensors hate fuel additives
  11. They are self cleaning, when the engine is shut off the sensor wire burns hot to get rid of oil and crap that has accumulated on it. Not a good idea to excessively clean them manually.
  12. The factory oil/water exchangers is around that location, it deals with engine oil and coolant.. the coolant side of it might have failed.
  13. Explain this ECU chip, Nistune, mail order chip, ebay chip?
  14. I've read people complain about the X-Force Varex being a restriction even with the butterfly open, swapping it out with a different muffler and gaining power
  15. Best to follow the manufacturers method of bedding in, whether it's the rotor's or the pad's manufacturer. What I do on empty roads is, get up to 40, lock it up to full stop, drive around for acouple minutes to let things cool down, again but 60 this time, finally at 80 and drive at least for 5 minutes to prevent thermal shock.
  16. From memory the RB30 alternator needs a wire switched
  17. Most likely the locator half moon key.. does the exhaust camshaft still have the key on it, or is only the CAS' key broken?
  18. Haha bendix ultimates at the track, they won't last the day, maybe 3/4 of a day if you're lucky. When I change my pads at the track, I just drive normally and take it easy (but still hard on the brakes) the first few laps, then they're completely bedded in.
  19. Not a good idea, as it is under vacuum and can suck unfiltered air in
  20. It could be the crank angle sensor making the noise indicating it's on it's way out. I killed my CAS when i changed to a clear cover without using the washers from the old cover, acouple mm can make a big difference.
  21. Does your cover have genuine nissan fasteners holding it on? They should be thick around the body, I dont know the technical name, its like a thick rubber jacket around it
  22. -5's used to be part of the GT2860 family, but recently Garrett decided to move them into the GT2560 family. the 500x thing is a new thing as well. My -9's (barely 8 months old) came labelled as 707160-5009.
  23. The circlips that come with the cheap short shifter kits are almost always useless.
  24. Nismo one is just the standard bracket with some more spot welds
  25. Bits of ceramic in the cat converter if it's indeed lost the wheel
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