Moodles2

Everything you need to know about the PFC: http://paulr33.com/powerfc-faq/powerfc-faq.htm

GTR badges?

Probably be worth looking into geting someone decent at micro-soldering to do the nistune install, could be cheaper than getting the workshop do do that part (especially if you can get a friend to do it).

Crank angle sensor can do it if it wasn't put back on properly.

RHDJapan have a special going for all coppermix clutches, even Jesse Streeter could only do it $50 cheaper than them.

Since SARD just repackage Denso injectors like PE: 63566 (6 X 800cc) Nissan SKYLINE (BNR32, BCNR33,BNR34 RB26DETT) - 800cc - Top, Low Impedance, 2 Hole, Yellow - Green (Pic 6 ) Time 1.10 msec Taken from: http://www.nengun.com/sard/injectors

QFM HPX or Remsa (Remsa pad sits inbetween HPX and A1RM) for a purely street driven car, QFM A1RM for a car that sees light track work, check GSL Rallysport's subsection on here.

Nur engine bits are still cast (just stronger than standard cast bits), if the engine is being stripped then you may as well go with forged items.

Before the car is started with that Nistuned ECU, it would be best reverting back to a RB20 basemap (effectively overwritting whatever is loaded), then there is really 3 things you have to modify. #1 MAF translation (I believe just a matter of selecting Z32 from a dropdown box). #2 Resizing the injectors from stock to 550cc #3 Finally injector lag time in microseconds ( http://www.nengun.com/sard/injectors says 0.85 millisec for your 550's, old Nistune required you to double this valve so you would enter 1700 microseconds or 850 microseconds if using a recent version of Nistune where you don't need to double the value). In this state it would be drivable to the tuners, I just wouldn't drive it around like that unless AFRs were checked.

4 things I would check. - Air flow meters (unplug them to confirm if it is or not) - Faulty crank angle sensor - Faulty coilpack ignitor (possibly has a poor ground) - Faulty fuel pump (maybe blocked fuel filter)

Bright blue full synth is most likely shockproof lightweight aka smurf's blood

Probably R&R at 10psi (rich and retard), as for not getting 7psi you might have the hoses on the wrong way

The water/air heat exchanger is in that area (factory oil warmer/cooler), deals with coolant and oil.

The revised Shockproof lightweight seems to like to climb out of the gearbox breather.

Don't bother with piggyback's. Just get another stock ECU, R33 ECU's can't be Nistune'd so demand isn't very high so should be cheap to replace. If you ever did go Nistune you would need a Z32 ECU (VCT support) or a RB20 ECU (no VCT support) anyway. I wouldn't go ahead and put a PFC in just incase what fried that ECU might fry another, until I was sure it was the ECU that was faulty and not something else electrical that caused it (water etc).

Engine Control might be the ECU, check if your passenger footwell is damp. If it is damp you might have a leaking heater core or heater hose

You mentioned (by a double post) that the car was sitting in some dudes backyard for ages... the fuel no doubt stale and octane booster wont do crap for it (only destroy your oxygen sensor). If it still does it with fresh fuel then read the sticky about the 4500-5500rpm misfire thread

http://www.kudosmotorsports.com/catalog/nissan-sensor-water-temperature-genuine-nissan-skyline-r33-all-r34-excluding-gtr-p-906.html

Good gearbox with no know issues: Royal Purple Syncromax, Redline MT90, Motul Gear 300 (most expensive) Good gearbox with minor crunch issue: Redline Shockproof Lightweight (very popular, I use it myself) Rooted gearbox: Redline Shockproof Heavyweight I'm not sure about Castrol to be honest, I've read people dropping their current oil for Castrol and it was worse than the old oil (some even putting the old oil back in)

Goes to show it's worth port matching the stock manifolds to the turbos, and here I was laughed at in a recent thread when I mentioned doing it in 350kw+ applications.

No, since the original ECU is still retained.

I think they are made by Oz Racing (Italy), the 2 piece design look alot like my 17x9's.. how much do they weigh?

Solid lifter conversion for starters, depends which RB26 cams too as the CAS key on the exhaust cams are different with R34s at least

I think the one at the bottom is the one for the A/C fan when it reaches 95C+

Pretty sure it's the same sensor, the factory water temp gauge is useless anyway. I've seen mine go over 105C at the track and it was still in the same position as 80C daily driving (needle in the middle).