Moodles2

How much are you willing to spend on an oil change?

Good will be something full synthetic, depends how much you want to spend max on the oil itself?

I've read Redline recommends not to use additives with their gear oils. It's not really a great idea either as I think the Nulon additive is PTFE (teflon) which shockproof already contains

www.performancelub.com for redline in little bottles

PFC is probably the way to go, Nistune is a good cheaper option but there wouldn't be any tuners in Japan comfortable with it (let alone the english only interface).

The wobble at 80km/h sounds alot like HICAS when the steering wheel wasn't aligned perfectly straight when people put aftermarket steering wheels on, I only mention it as the stock steering wheel has been taken off.

Shouldn't have any problems taking it out, charging it and putting it back in. Unless it has battery backup?

Nissan 5 speeds seem to take power fairly well assuming good fluid has been put in (redline, motul etc) and has been treated with respect. Quick shifts that put lots of shock on the box tend to destroy synchros and short shifters don't help either. I've read big "singles" (JB full monty etc) with lots of clamping force tend to put alot of shock on the gearbox where a twin or triple plate would be more progressive. I've never heard of a broken drive shaft, I have heard front diffs exploding at the track with lots of power though (possibly via 4WD controllers putting more power to the front than it would normally or excessive 50/50 splits).

If you are going to just whack a stock turbo on, then the R34 would be the choice, it's ball bearing and will be less likely to eject it's ceramic wheel due to age vs a R33 one.

Just make sure they are willing to declare it under 1000 AUD.

Aftermarket steering wheel by any chance?

If it is a stock turbo and the bearings are already on their way out, there is no telling when the ceramic wheel will start hitting the housing and the ceramic wheel ejecting itself from the shaft and taking the engine with it via ceramic dust (GTRs more susceptible) or the wheel safely ending up in your cat converter.

ECUTalk will report the ECU part number, just a matter of google'ing that part number.

When the coolant reaches 95C+ it automatically switches the A/C fan on.

Titania and Zirconia can both be 3 wire. Zirconia will have 2 white wires (heater) and 1 black wire (signal) while a Titania sensor will have a black wire (reference), red wire (reference + heater) and a white wire (heater): http://www.lambdasensor.com/main/mcolours1.htm Are you using a R32 ECU with a R33 motor? If so R33 GTR ecus wont work with titania sensors, and R32 GTR ecus wont work with zirconia sensors. I like ECUTalk, it's free (and will show seperate values for both sensors): http://ecutalk.com/ecutalk.aspx

With that link, those clearances were only checked while cold. The metal will have expanded at operating temperature, so heating up the metal to operating temp and then checking the clearances would make it more clear.

The clutch pedal bracket has a tendency to snap due to lack of welds, old age and heavy duty clutches don't exactly help either. It is worth a look to see if that pedal bracket is still in good condition or not.

With Nistune anyway, the default setting for the RB26 basemap with O2 feedback is 30C (the minimum temperature which the ECU will use O2 sensor readings) so I'm guessing the stock ECU has the same behavior. You really need a CONSULT cable to see what both sensors are outputting when cold, and hot, will also help to see what the ECU thinks the coolant temperature is. Are you sure you have the right O2 sensors? BNR32 ecus expect titania sensors and wont work very well (or work at all) with zirconia sensors. I have 2 sensors in my GTR, one is a Bosch the other is NTK (both titania). The NTK one tends to report 0v while cold (still warming up) while the Bosch one seems to report 0.4-0.6v straight away so the ECU would try to trim fuel while still cold. With O2 feedback defaulted at 30 it would run sluggish until the coolant temp was over 55C so I changed O2 feedback to 70C in Nistune and it's been running smooth since.

Tomei + standard sump is insanity. The oil pump gears on the Tomei pump are massive, I wouldn't be suprised if the increased flow from the pump drained the sump completely. http://www.tomei-p.co.jp/inf/pdf/22_ae_Letter.pdf

Declare them as sex toys on the shipping thing "big black dildos"

Factory fan + no shroud, has been proven to be the source of overheating for most people who have problems with overheating (having no shroud)

They stop rocks.

I think it might be intake related, in particular AFM reversion if the stock "accordion-style" intake has been replaced.

Z145a: http://www.rycofilte...l+GQ/part/Z145A Z445: http://www.rycofilte...tiida/part/Z445 Z442: http://www.rycofilte...ULSAR/part/Z442 Z145a and Z442 have the exact same thread "3/4-16-UNF-2B" while the Z445 thread diameter width is the same, but has a longer thread "M20-x1.5-6H". I think also (from vague memory) the Z442 doesn't have a drain-back valve but someone else can correct me on that, while I'm pretty sure the Z445 does have a drain-back valve. Because the Z445 has the longer thread, I've read of instances where it has popped off, but I would be checking with that particular kit if it recommends an Z445 equivalent.

this discussion has been done to death, check the N/A section.