Moodles2

Without the spacing on the cover, you will destroy your CAS superquick unless its absolutely perfect.

Oil had to come from somewhere, turbo (oil seals), or excessive blowby ("rebuilt" bottom end built by a monkey, rings that didn't seal properly etc.) or the intercooler has been full of oil the whole time and wasn't cleaned out when whatever was the cause before the engine needed the rebuild.

Dry solder could be gone in the AFM or the plug, or a fueling issue (faulty fuel pump or blocked filter), or alternator (is voltage dipping when it starts to stop?)

The anti-drain back valve is just a rubber flap that keeps the oil inside the filter on shutdown so there is oil in the filter on startup. I asked which filter came off as you could have the wrong filter (filter relocation kits sometimes need a different filter) or a faulty filter. 2kg/cm2 would be perfectly normal for a unopened RB26 (with factory oil pump) at idle at operating temperature, because the engine is built and has a higher flowing pump (different oil restrictors too etc), it's hard to say what is safe or not.

As far as compliance goes, only oil and filter have to be changed, I know because that's what was done when mine was complianced.

Auto trans fluid can be red yet still need dumping especially if the fluid smells burnt. factory fluids are semi-synths so 200,000km would really be at the end of their service life (redline claim 400,000km on their synthetic gear/trans fluids)

Should really be running whatever the engine builder recommended.

I see 2 problems. 3l might explain why the gauge read 2.5kg/cm2. The other is the oil choice w60 (hot rating) is way too thick for a RB26, w40 is the perfect one (only reason to run a 60 weighted oil in an RB is if the engine tolerances were built for it, or it has massive blowby problems, or perhaps a track-only car)

5kg/cm2 is too high for operating temperature in my opinion unless that's how the pump was configured and something the previous owner did to mask the high oil pressure to make it read 2.5kg/cm2 (running low on oil, oil heavily dilated by fuel etc). How much came out and how much exactly did you put in? What oil and weight did the previous owner use, and what oil did you use (maybe too thick)? What was the old filter, and what is the new filter (might be blocked/faulty)?

I'm not 100% sure, but I thought the problem was only with R32s (fouling on the "twin turbo" pipe)

R33 GTR stockies are 17x9, 255 is no problem for a rim that wide

QFM HPX, cheap and decent for a daily.

In my opinion it's a bad idea to rock up to a tuner with a car that has problems, a tune won't magically fix it.

It's a double edged sword, reduce the gap to reduce a misfire, but at the same time lose alittle power as well. You generally start at the default gap (1.1mm) and gap it down until the misfire goes away (usually 0.8mm)

There is alot of space between the hot mark on the dipstick and the bottom of the crank on RB26s (room for about 1.5-2l of more oil), which is why we overfill to the hump. But when oil does hit the crank from, the crank whips it up like butter and it foams up, also creating crankhouse pressure which can blow the rear main.

WTF? all these mods and your running a basemap. Tow it to tuner before you break something.

Set the boost to minimum and see if it still does it.

As what was said above, just make sure a LSD oil is put in the rear diff as it is a hypoid diff not a viscous diff (found on RB25DET equipped cars). You can put LSD oil in non-LSD's that's no problem if you plan on using the same fluid front and back.

If you want cheap, Castrol VMX (mineral), if you want something better then the Castrol synthetic range If you want the best: If the box sometimes crunches at track conditions then, Redline Shockproof. If it doesn't crunch then Motul Gear 300 or Redline MT-90. In the end the gearbox and diff require a gear oil that meets the GL-4 specification, GL-5 is backwards compatible so any GL-5 fluid at the server manual recommended SAE weight (75w90, 80w90, 75w85 etc). you can use 80w140's for example (shockproof lightweight is an example) but they are more suited for track conditions and can make your LSD lock up in undesirable situations like driving the streets around roundabouts or parking your car. So as long as you choose a GL-4/GL-5 oil at the correct weight you should be right. I've read people who had shockproof in their gearbox and got scared about all the stories going around about destroying their synchros only to put Castrol in and pretty much immediately dump the Castrol and put the old shockproof back in.

The only 2 popular Motul brake fluids are DOT 5.1 (glycol based not silicon, higher boiling point than their DOT 4 but more expensive) and RBF600 (only worth putting in a high powered track car).. Just go with Castrol

Both are plug and play units using the factory ECU harness, it should be as simple as unplugging the E-Manage and putting the PFC in it's place.. but then you need to wipe the tune off and go back to the basemap on the PFC before you start the engine incase the existing tune is completely unsuitable for your engine and mods.

-5's will make about 370-400kw at 19-20psi.. sounds like you got the wrong turbos, -9's is what you really probably wanted.

As far as my quick google check, HPR is a full synthetic by marketing (containing the minimum percent of mixed PAO synthetic), not a true Group IV oil. Which means it belongs in amongst the Group III oils, but the 10 Tenths range is a true synthetic (mix of PAO and esters ) Nulon Full synthetic is another example, not a true group IV synthetic, but it meets the minimum percent of synthetic stock to be marketed as such.

As long as the oil is changed at 5,000km or every 6 months (whatever comes first) anything I listed or others have listed are perfectly fine. Motul 300V and Redline are the best and you said you wanted the best (comes at a big price). Personally anything I listed in the good or better category I would use on my GTR when doing street driving. Better or Best I would use at the track, it's overkill for a street driven car.

I wish people would put up their budget on how much they're willing to spend, would make it so much easier to recommend an oil. Any $ figures I put in ()'s are approximations. Good (Group 3 semi-synths): Motul 4100 Turbolight ($50), Gulf Western Syn-X 3000 ($35), Royal Purple ($50) Better (Group 4 PAO full synths): Motul 8100 X-Cess/X-Max ($70), GW Syn-X 6000 ($60), Royal Purple XPR ($120), Mobil 1 0w40 ($70) Best (Group 5 Ester full synths): Motul 300V Chrono ($150), Redline ($120)