Moodles2

Car will run very rich (double the fuel it would normally get with the stockers), the spark plugs are guaranteed to be fouled. Depending on the lag time of the Nismo's vs stock injectors, it might not even idle.

If the ECU was tuned for the atmo BOV, then it might make things worse putting the stock one back on (re-circulating type). What kind of "tuned" ECU? The cold start might need tweaking, especially if it was tuned in the warmer seasons or you live in a area which is cooler than where the owner lived.

Very healthy engine, more than 10% variance between cylinder is generally a bad sign but not here. Nissan service manual recommand a rebuild at 120psi and brand new about 172psi (not sure if this is wet or dry).

The difference between HKS GT-SS and -9's is nothing. GT-SS used to come with HKS stamped front compressors but now they have the same cover as Garrett -9s (and have had it for ages now). GT-SS come with adjustable actuators, -9's don't come with any actuators (Garrett do make bolton adjustable actuators to suit though that can be brought seperately).. although if you wanted standard actuators on -9s then you would want "-1's". For more info: https://www.turbobyg...oductCd=GT2859R

Check engine light. This will tell you exactly how to find out what the problem is and what needs to be fixed: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/266512-reading-nissan-fault-codes-ecu-fault-codes-how-read-them/

I don't know what a stock RB25DET enginebay looks like, but is that a trumpet on the BOV? It almost looks like a factory.. if it is a atmo BOV then there's the problem.

Intake and exhaust take the exact same gear (but not RB25's which use a completely different gear to suit VCT on the intake side otherwise the exhaust one is the same as other RBs), it's just the chinese ones they decided to put the holes there so you could use them either side. The markings for advance/retard on some ebay gears have been the wrong way around. Whereas say the Tomei IN gear will only fit on Intake, and EX on exhaust.

R32/R33 plastic, R34 metal alloy. Otherwise they are exactly the same.

Alot of SAU people run china cam gears, the only problem is the fasteners that come with them that are junk, best replaced with hi-tensile bolts. Plus china gears are just intake gears, which means to retard the exhaust side, you need to advance what is indicated (and vice versa). But if you can get genuine tomei gears for $110 each, then do it.. maybe even organise a groupbuy through rawbrokerage to help save postage.

RB26 run a IAT, 2x oxygen sensors, and 2x AFMs so it won't be plug and play

The Bosch one I quoted from memory is like $200

More info required, non-factory mods for starters (BOV etc).

Re-read what DEV JEZ has written, then read it again. Solution, sell the Z32 AFM, you DON'T need it. Replace stock AFM with the money. Or else you could keep going as you are now and blow up your motor (which I guarantee WILL happen). A wrecker-spec RB25DET will cost approx 3k (at a rough guess), then there's the labour of putting it in. But please when you do blow up that motor, please post the result in: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/46581-report-that-engine-failure/

Behind the radio/climate control and to the right of the glovebox (closer to passenger side footwell than the drivers side), it moves forward and back (depending on hot or cold).

It's actually a nice vintage video, nothing I didn't know already

How much fuel pressure will the check valve hold if left for awhile? I'm curious what kinda pressure they keep engine startup

GTR? It's best to use the Apexi elbows with the Apexi pods.

From what I remember our hitachi alternator's can't be rebuilt. Try a Bosch RB30 alternator (from VL commodore or R31 skyline), slots straight in and might require alittle wire modification (depends on car).

On R32's it's the servo actuator arm that controls the flap which looses power due to it's dry solder joints cracking so the flap gets stuck in whatever position it last had power (hot or cold)

Wouldn't 2l be impossible to get out of a 2.5l engine? Most of the pistons would have to be at the very bottom of their stroke and at least one or 2 would be near TDC, unless the fuel got past the rings?

Oil pressure sensor (near the oil filter) might start working properly again with a good clean

I'm curious why everything has been addressed except for the cams, you can't run bigger cams on a basemap and expect it to idle. Personally I would put the stock afm and injectors back in, modify basemap and confirm its running (with the cams), add the 550cc injectors, modify basemap again, then finally the z32 afm and finish off the basemap

Oxygen sensor probably needs changing by the sound of the fuel economy (I'm guessing that's what the engine light is indicating). You need to get the error codes from the ECU: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/266512-reading-nissan-fault-codes-ecu-fault-codes-how-read-them/ It's possible the safeway 98 is dirty or their 98 tank was and blocked up the fuel filter (though it wouldn't trigger the engine light unless 34's have a fuel pressure sensor I'm not aware of).. heck you might have even filled up right after a tanker came and stirred up all the crap on the bottom.

I can't believe the belt was changed, but not the bearings as well, and by the sounds of it the crank and cam seals weren't done either.

Helicoil is an option