Moodles2

So I'm doing a turbo swap on my R32 GTR, the old ceramics are going and -9's put in place, I'm also replacing the stock dumps with Tomei's (new style), Nismo frontpipe (60x2 -> 80) for a HKS frontpipe (70x2 -> 85). It is mainly my daily, but I want to hit the track acouple times a year and want the underbonnet temps down. I was thinking about getting the stock manifold ceramic coated (outside), dumps (inside & out) & turbo housings (inside & out). While wrapping the front pipe with exhaust wrap. Would it be overkill to also wrap the dumps & manifold too, and how much many metres would I need (to do manifold, dumps & frontpipe)?

Probably worth checking the front shafts for damage, usually they get disconnected to run GTRs on a 2WD dyno but because you can use the R32 fuse trick it's unnecessary to do that to the R32s front shaft. I would be looking for straightness and any possible accident damage on both front shafts (both left and right)

I thought VCT was purely based on RPM input?

Haven't mentioned much info on the exhaust, can the cat have collasped and is causing an exhaust restriction?

I think Repco are running a 20% off all oils at the moment, Motul 8100 X-Cess 5w-40 is my favorite (full synthetic), next best thing to Motul 300V

Someone has mentioned they use a re-usable washable fuel filter when using E85, but can't seem to find the author.. I'm after a link to this product.

I believe the seat buckle completes the circuit and turns off the warning sound, it might just be a matter of joining 2 wires (best to probe this out wiht a multimeter)

Make sure the ABS unit is being bled, also are you bleeding them in the correct order (Nissan specifies that all 4 corners be done in a certain order)

They ask for ecu number incase you have an ECU they haven't seen before or can't use (R33 GTR ECU for example), the stock map is pre-loaded (100% the same as the factory map) and will be exactly like driving with an unmodified stock ECU.

The sealed batteries I've recharged all had a 1 way valve that releases any pressure builtup in the cells, any charger will do

I was thinking of port matching my standard manifold to match -9s, but everyone I've spoken to have said it's not worth it as response will be lost, but for -5s and bigger it's generally recommended to do the port matching

If the CAS is too close to the exhaust cam's key, it will destroy the CAS' optical sensor and believe me I've destroyed a CAS (not used the spacers from the stock timing belt cover when I put a clear cover on)

Cheap catch cans are pretty much just tanks with 2 outlets, they don't actually catch anything.. usually have to fill them with steel wool to actually catch oil, most good catch cans use some sort of internal baffling

I'm not sure if I would trust either's voltage output, when fully warming up at idle you should see 0.4-0.6v.. but if they are indeed working then the first 3 cylinders are running rich (assuming o2-1 is the front sensor), while the last 3 are running lean

If you want to destroy your engine, by all means keep using it..

Mods, ECU, last serviced, factory fuel pump still, did it start acting funny when you last filled up (dodgy fuel), is it hunting while idling etc

Searching on Google helps I find, when you limit the sites to pages from australia

Fairly certain the oil pressure switch (idiot light) is independant of the oil pressure sender

I think 89CAL is right, I would be using that 4WD mode very very sparingly (ie. never)

Try Kudosmotorsports, usually has genuine nissan bits cheaper than dealerships

WTB: GTR dumps, R34 GTRs ones would be great, otherwise aftermarket ones will do. PM me

Any ideas which brand they are?

The way I understand it, the air intake sensor (exact same sensor as the temp probe in the radiator) that is on intake manifold (well GTR ones anyway) takes the physical temperature of the plenum where it's attached to, not the actual temp of the air.. the temperature of the plenum can be much higher than the temp of the air because of heat transfer from the head.

Check if it's the same sensor in the link for the $77 NTK one. $77 NTK http://www.kudosmoto...25det-p-42.html $209 Genuine Nissan http://www.kudosmoto...1997-p-787.html

What's involved with port matching a stock exhaust manifold? Is it something that can be done in your backyard with an angle grinder or do a workshop/machine shop need to do the work (matching port to -9s)