Moodles2

I think the bottom one is used to switch on the AC fan automatically once the temp reaches 90-95+, while the top one reports the engine temp to the ECU

If it's coming from the front, it could be anything but I'll make a list of possibilites: CV joint, warped discs (since the front does all the braking basically), worn out suspension bushing (any suspension part is a possibility), wheel bearing on its way out, front diff low on fluid, sticky/seized caliper piston, clutch (throwout bearing on its way out for example), there are probably others but that's all I can think of. Front drive shaft (or ATTESSA for that matter) is unlikely since under deceleration ATTESSA would be driving the rear wheels

Hope this helps (just don't get a R32 GTR one as its a Titania sensor): http://members.pcug.org.au/~jdeakins/facts.html

Sounds like stale fuel, use something with alcohol (wd40, brake cleaner etc) around the intake manifold and the intake piping (joins etc).. if theres a intake leak the revs will respond. The intake manifold gaskets are paper for example and can crack due to age.

Agree with the above, AAC is most likely, give the AFM a clean with contact cleaner

Yup I wasn't sure about the external ignitor being on R34s, seems it was indeed ditched for individual ignitors in each coilpack On that note, try running without the coilpack cover on

Hmm redtops? Sounds like S15 or was it RX7 injectors (480cc)

If the fan ripped your belts and hoses apart, it's likely the CAS has either rotated left or right (advancing or retarding the base timing), and the symptoms sound like the timing is off. Find someone with a timing light and confirm the timing (in base idle) is where it should or shouldn't be

100% untrue, they have the same AWD system, if you ran ATTESSA full time on the GTS-4, the transfer case gear oil would boil and the transfer case's clutch pack would be farked in no time.

No, Titania and Zirconia sensors are completely electrically different, a stock R32 GTR ECU will most likely run like ass with R34 (Zirconia) sensors.

Pretty sure R34 V-Spec's have an active diff (I think it's a viscous type?) versus a mechanical LSD (hypoid type), if the active diff is a viscous type I'm pretty sure the LSD part is sealed and that why they list non-lsd oils for the rear.

If you are going to drive about with the space saver on, pull the AWD fuse (only because it's a R32) otherwise you will burn out your transfer case.

Most likely it's air in the head causing the overheating, RB's are notoriously known for their difficulty to completely let the air escape out the head.. requiring the front end to be jacked up really high, or by parking on hills, or hacking up soft drink bottles to get the air to escape out the highest point in the system (rad cap) As for oil/water mixing together, it could be the factory oil/water heat exchanger near the oil filter has failed, common place for failure and how oil and water can mix together

As far as I know the V-Spec factory LSD is the same as the non-V-Spec BNR32. From the looks of it EPX is for for regular diffs (suitable for front diff) and LSX for limited slip diffs (suitable for front & rear diff), both are mineral oils. If you want something more suitable for the track or will last longer, Castrol make a full synthentic called SAF-XA

Might want to look into the ignitor, heat brings it out if its a dodgy one.

As above what's been said, different tread levels front and back can make the ATTESSA system apply power to the front all the time (even if its a tiny bit), if that happens try switching the back wheels to the front and vice versa. To be safe it's best to have the same brand & type front and back.

Better off buying a RB25DET. NEO RB25DE has a compression ratio of 10:1.. too high for a turbo application, to put it simply I'd be worrying about ALL 6 pistons. http://www.skylinesa...pression-ratio/

A vacuum hose has probably popped off/split, it's possible its the one to the waste actuator and giving you unlimited boost

Does it look like this: http://www.gizzmoelectronics.com/Product_GasketNissan.html

Yep R32s have mechanical HICAS which is powered by the PS pump

I had 91 sitting in my motorbike for over 2 years (hadn't been started in alittle over a year), it started and idled but i didn't dare to do anything else till it was completely drained.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Toluene Look at the list of things it will dissolve, and ask yourself what are all your fuel hoses made out of.

The Inlet manifold gasket?

If you have a multimeter, try probing a working cylinder to see what the normal output is to its coil plug, then try 6th coil plug and compare the 2, it might not be getting power/spark/whatever to it

A stock 2.5l ECU powering a 3.0l engine?