Moodles2

Pretty sure knock isn't a variable reported via CONSULT, knock control is just something the ECU does internally to pull timing (or switch to a knock map). I know Matt from Nistune has worked on reporting a knock value in the past, but that was Nistune specific.

Aircon

Coolant thermostats usually open fully at about 82c, without an aftermarket oil cooler, the factory oil/water seperator would normally keep the oil temp at about the same as the coolant temp (in japanese street conditions anyway) since it links the temperatures of the 2 fluids anyway (and acts as a warmer when cold). I think 70-80c is perfectly fine oil operating temperature, but then are you trusting the factory gauge or a aftermarket gauge for that readout?

Did your ATTESSA resouvoir have a 5cm'ish air bubble near the bottom, I know it's normal for it to be there, just don't know what it would mean if it's not there?

Yep 5 clicks is the full adjustment range, my S-Tune coilovers have numbers 1 to 5 around each dial to indicate position

Actually they do make exceptions, it depends on who you speak to and the said exceptions like having a CAMS license etc.

Could also unplug the CAS and crank it that way to get oil pressure.

Nismo edition is just the normal GTR but with the aircon system removed correct? I'm guessing it doesn't come with the Nismo clutch slave (it's 15/16 iirc) & master

Sure you didn't drain the auto transmission fluid?

Black is Signal (Out), both Whites are the Heater

Wastegate actuator has nothing to do with the ECU R&R boost cut. I reckon you should source out an aftermarket ECU and get a proper tune.. or a piggyback to tune around the factory R&R if the AM ECU options are too expensive. 12psi+ through the stock turbo? What you really need to be sourcing is a new turbo, because you're going to blow that one putting 15psi+ through it.

Do you have one of those Nismo or aftermarket radiator caps that increase the cooling system pressure? If so put it away and put a normal cap on (1.2bar iirc). Infact it might be worth changing the rad cap anyway if the spring isn't working and causing excess pressure. Which hose (upper or lower) and is the hose bursting or just blowing off whatever it's connected to? I hope you bled the air properly out of the cooling system each time the hose popped off?

Nissan, but they are expensive. I'm not sure about the 34 sumitomo calipers, but R32/R33 sumitomo share the same shims as the 300zx. http://www.cazracing.com.au/catalog/produc...products_id=105 Just check Nissan FAST if possible to confirm the part numbers and see if they match up to: http://www.thenismoshop.com/catalog/300ZX-..._Clips_Z32.html

Switch the AFMs, if it still happens you might have 1 turbo that's doing more work than the other. Or perhaps a boost/inlet leak somewhere between the turbo and AFM #2

^ +1.

Sard & Power Enterprise and just some of the many jap aftermarket companies that just resell Denso injectors anyway.

My 94 GTR (non-vspec) runs the sumitomo setup: Diameter 296mm x thickness 32mm - Front Diameter 292mm x thickness 18mm - Rear Is it possible that a non-vspec got the Brembo brakes? no, because they simply wouldn't fit under the stock 16" wheels, there's a reason why the V-Spec has 17" wheels.

With GTR's ITB, I've read you're not supposed to clean them as you are stripping away the seal on the butterfly shaft which lets air leak in. Perhaps something similar happened.

Put me down for one

Because it uses the factory rubber jacket insulator thing (very unlikely to be aftermarket Bosch or Walbro), leads me to believe it's a Nissan pump of sorts, possibly a GTR pump.

Trackday and HPX do not go together, it's a hard lesson but next trackday actually come prepared with track friendly pads not street pads.

R32 GTR uses Z145a, R34 GTR uses Z442 (i think thats right).. both are same thread, just the Z442 isn't as tall and has slightly smaller width. Ryco recommend the Z145a for the R33 anyway iirc.

Sounds like a a cooler pipe off has blown off

If it's a sensor that connects to the cat itself, most like an EGT sensor not an O2 sensor, just brings up a red light in your dash when the cat itself reaches i think 700 degrees c or more. Check the Bosch O2 sensor catalogue, I vagually recall both sensors you describe being in there for your application.

Safe limit, are we talking about a stock ECU? All front mounts, even jap kits aren't an exception to this rule, all require some sort of modification to the reo bar, and usually the bumper requires trimming too.