Moodles2

Watching the video, I did not see positive boost once, only atmospheric pressure afew times... If the gauge is true, then what you have right there is a naturally aspirated rb25det, in my opinion the turbo has lost a wheel (I'm not good with R33s, I believe they have a ceramic wheel with a nylon or was it plastic compressor wheel?)

Did you paint over the engine ground? If so you'll need to sand back the paint

Always use the genuine Nissan Matic-D fluid in GTR transfercases, not worth risking the clutch packs with a non-genuine fluid (and jap tuners recommend the genuine fluid too). As for brake fluid Motul RBF600 is overkill if the car isn't being tracked. The front diff isn't a LSD so a LSD fluid isn't required (wouldn't hurt to run it anyway), rear LSD is a hypoid type so make sure the LSD fluid is hypoid compatible. UK is alot different to Australia, 10w-40 is perfect for a street driven daily Skyline here since it's warm all the time even in winter, you might even want to use a 0w-40 depending how cold it gets in your part of the UK (especially in temperatures <5c)

The factory oil/water exchanger has been known to fail and oil can leak into the coolant this way.

I would first confirm the pump is running at alternator voltage not the factory 6v/12v switching setup as aftermarket pumps weren't designed to run at such low voltage.

Just to keep in mind since the R32's HICAS is mechanical in nature, it shares the powersteering fluid. If you still have HICAS it could be affected by this fluid the workshop recommended

Peak power is made at 6400rpm on a RB25DET iirc, it's pointless to rev past this

7-8psi? what boost gauge, don't tell me it's a cheap supercheap one? Anything lower than 10psi is a misreading if the stock actuators are indeed still on and in working condition.

Lewis Engines has a nice little write up of what they do with crank collars: http://www.lewisengines.com.au/webcontent6.htm

Noticed 45V1 on the housing, I think they're the VG30 turbo

Pete of PLMSDevelopements http://www.plmsdevelopments.com/ has pretty good success with repairing Nissan AFMs if your willing to send them to SA.

It controls the AC fan, switches it on automatically at a set temp range (90,95,100, probably starts at any of those temps)

If you want to find if it's a genuine VSpec2? Get the VIN and put it into Nissan FAST. Brembo's front and back is probably the biggest giveaway, the 17" BBS wheels too (dunno why a VSpec owner would get rid of a good set of forged wheels)

Fairly major if you have problems with it, because if it stops working the car won't run at all let alone start. Know that silver thing attached to the timing belt cover? That's your CAS aka Crank Angle Sensor (also known as a Camshaft Angle Sensor), it's really a simple matter of fetching a second hander or a new genuine unit ($400ish from Nissan iirc), and then with a timing light putting the CAS into the correct position. If it's a mitsubishi unit, I've been told they can be rebuilt (easy to spot as they have a mitsubishi logo on the front) If still not sure what it looks like (a GTR one, probably different to what you need): http://www.rhdjapan.com/nissan-oem-cam-ang...cas-bnr34-58761

It's possible a previous owner drilled a massive hole in the firewall near that location, and it's the heat from the enginebay leaking in

Is the rear turbo the culprit or the front turbo that is losing the wheel? It could be the piping itself making one turbo work harder than the other (in case of GTRs it's the rear turbo that does more work since the angle of the twin turbo pipe forces both turbos to fight against each other)

Fuel pump is the likely suspect, it being close to 15 years old now.. the symptoms sounds like the pump dying, but not completely dead (yet).

Not a good idea to use a NEO thermostat as they open @ 82c (cooling system at about 88-92ish celcius) while the genuine non-NEO opens @ 76.5c (cooling system at about 80-84ish celcius), NEOs by design like to run alittle hotter which is why they have the different thermostat.

Switches on automatically regardless if using the aircon or not at I think 100c, maybe earlier.

I was in local Repco today getting 2 stroke mix oil for my lawnmower and X-Cess was still $69 or $79 (one or the other)

Definitely bypass it as the "active speaker" system was only really meant to be used with the factory tape deck.

I think by law, when they come off the boat from Japan (or possibly even before they get on the boat in Japan) they have to be degassed, but that was ages ago when I did research back in 2004ish under the 15 year rule not SEVS

Pete of PLMS developments http://www.plmsdevelopments.com/

All about marketing: http://www.1st-in-synthetics.com/is_your_s...y_synthetic.htm I'll just quote the relevant paragraph. Pretty much describes the North American market and how they are allowed to market a blended Group III oil as synthetic Last year, Castrol (Swingdon, U.K.) and Mobil (Fairfax, VA) brought the debate over what is “synthetic” into view, as Mobil challenged Castrol’s replacement of polyalphaolephins (PAOs) with hydroisomerized waxes in their synthetic formulations. Exactly one year after the National Advertising Division (NAD) of the Council of Better Business Bureaus’ ruling in April 1999, upholding Castrol’s position that wax isomerates could be called synthetic, Petro-Canada (Toronto) advertised it would be referring to its very high viscosity index (VHVI) basestocks as a synthetic in the North American market. These products fall into the same API group (Group III) as wax isomerates, but could vary significantly in quality from wax isomerates. This market roar by Petro-Canada has carried a quiet undertone of moves from PAO to VHVI technology by several engine oil marketers.

Skyline's have surprisingly decent aircon systems, well my R32 GTR does anyway.. was actually blown away on how well it works when I took ownership of it after compliance was done, I was expecting a sauna not a ice blizzard in summer