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Moodles2

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Everything posted by Moodles2

  1. Moodles2
    GTR ECU can take 1 bar, I'm not so sure about a RB20 ecu.
  2. Moodles2
    Sounds like R&R past 10psi, aftermarket ECU or Nistune is the solution I think
  3. Moodles2
    You didn't use both factory lines did you?
  4. Moodles2
    Could be the coolant temperature sensor at fault
  5. Moodles2
    sorry double post
  6. Moodles2
    Whatever you do, don't blindly cut the wires, the ignition power always runs through the turbo timer whether it is on or off, effectively you wont be able to start your car.
  7. Moodles2
    Doing it my way will only give you 5psi, if you use the factory boost solenoid you will get the factory stock boost of 7-8psi
  8. Moodles2
    Since you said manual boost controller I assumed a bleed valve. Locate the bleed valve, unplug the 2 rubber vacuum lines and join them together with a hose joiner (measure the inner diameter of the hoses so you know what size joiner you need, it will be either 6mm or 8mm) Something like this (metal or plastic is fine): http://www.allensperformance.co.uk/images/...0line/j0404.jpg
  9. Moodles2
    If you can hear it in the cabin, do you have a electronic boost controller or a aftermarket gauge in the cabin? The vacuum line to either (if they exist) might have split or come loose
  10. Moodles2
    kg/cm2, 1kg/cm2 is equal to about 14.2psi. Generally the colder the startup engine temperature, the higher the pressure before operating temperature is reached.
  11. Moodles2
    I would recommend something like a Catco 3" (instead of the XForce one), $175ish from justjap, I run one on my GTR
  12. Moodles2
    I doubt 193kw, 193hp I would beleive
  13. Moodles2
    If your friend had a different AFM or different sized injectors, there's no way you can use that ECU
  14. Moodles2
    Yep perfectly normal
  15. Moodles2
    It's just if you got Zirconia-based sensors it might explain the gremlin as the 2 types are electrically different to each other, and the R32 GTR ECU expects a pair of Titania-based sensors
  16. Moodles2
    Do you know if the new O2 sensors were Titania-type (not Zirconia-type)?
  17. Moodles2
    You can generally get 280kw with GTR injectors (6x 444cc) without sweating (without using an FPR), so I don't see any problem getting 300kw from those 480cc injectors, there is always the option of a FPR down the track to squeeze the extra 15-20w out of those S15 injectors (but generally not recommended as the extra pressure affects the spray pattern)
  18. Moodles2
    I don't think the stock thermostat opens till 76.5c, try getting to 80c and jacking the front up as high as you can, can also help things along with a improvised coke bottle + tape to bleed air from the radiator cap
  19. Moodles2
    If you connect the 2 hoses together, you should get turbo actuator pressure (5psi if memory serves me right, or is it 7psi?).. don't by all means leave these hoses exposed to the atmosphere as you will get unlimited boost
  20. Moodles2
    That's for normal LSDs (R200), you would have to look it up in the service manual for the active LSD, it probably only needs a GL-4 or GL-5 API rated fluid in there.
  21. Moodles2
    Boost leak probably, only opens up with the higher pressure
  22. Moodles2
    Possibly AFM upgrade as well, if this turbo can max out your current AFM
  23. Moodles2
    WTB: pair of R34 GTR stock dumps (with heatshields if possible as well) PM me
  24. Moodles2
    80-140 i would use on a track car, 80-90 for a street/track car. Nissan specifies 80-90 for japanese conditions iirc for rear LSDs
  25. Moodles2
    -18 is vacuum, normal when idling or crusing, if it's the same as the R32 GTR stock boost gauge, 0 = atmospheric pressure, +7 is 13.2psi on that gauge
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