Moodles2

Need a pair of rear brake caliper clips pictured here: http://www.users.on.net/~herus/Cressida/IMG_0686.JPG

Personally I wouldn't be messing with the plugs if it's not misfiring.

DOT4 is backwards compatible where DOT3 is specified (correct me if im wrong), just don't put DOT5 in as it's silicon based, DOT5.1 is another story though.

The only issue with the big injectors really, is getting the idle right on the tune

I've read that with the filler bolt off, shifting into each gear afew times cleans out the fluid on the synchros

Mine put out 199kw on the BW dyno at 14.7psi on a 40 degree day, pretty much dead stock exhaust for nistune, cam gears (adjusted for response), catco hiflow cat, nismo front pipe and 3.5" catback

Pretty much mine has a 4mm air bubble around, think that's normal

Are they the coils with the builtin ignitor or the ones with the single external ignitor? If you can borrow a working ignitor and see if it fixes it

Just oil and the oil filter as far as I'm aware with SEVS

Try greenline.jp perfectrun.com.au nengun.com etc if your willing to import from Japan

Bleed the air out

Oil light and oil pressure are from 2 different sources, it's possible you unplugged the oil light source somehow (dont ask me where it is or what it looks like)

I do the exact same thing, in summer i push that plug up to do to full cold, in winter i do the same to get it to full hot position. Ive got long enough arms to be able to do it while driving, though i prefer doing it at lights

Mine splits alot, I brought a silicon hose to replace it

I thought the series 1's were supposed to be the pick of the litter, while the newish ones are rubbish china quality units.. or was it the other way around?

2nd post in that forum link

Are those HKS gears?

Since you get cool air in summer, and warm air in winter, I think the servo arm (i call it the actuator rod) is stuck in-between, neither cold or hot. Try the paper trick and see if you can hear the servo motor moving the rod to full hot or full cold position.

Tried pulling the HICAS fuse? also is the steering wheel stock or aftermarket?

At idle revs when the oil is completely up to temp, 1kg/cm is about right for oil pressure.

It's possible the actuator rod isnt completely opening up, do you get cold air in summer or only cool air?

The stock pump is what, 12-15 years old by now? I would change it anyway, no guarantee it will take the extra power your asking from it. A new (I stress brandnew) stock GTR pump can handle about 260-280kw max, GTS-t's I would imagine the figure is abit lower. Don't get a Mine's ECU, they are tuned for 100 RON jap fuel. All Skyline sidemounts heatsoak up badly, I wouldn't put more than 200kw through a R33 one. It's not a matter of how much power the side mount can handle, it's how much your stock turbo can handle, which is not more than 10psi. I hope this answers your questions.

Change the gearbox fluid and check how much metal shavings are on the gearbox sump plug, might want to try Redline Shockproof as it does wonders for gear crunching

I hope you aren't going to drive around with the BA steelies on the back? I'd be more worried about ruining your transfer case

20100-RNR40 is the Nismo stainless muffler that suit 2dr ER34 while RNR41 suits the 4dr ER34 (2d and 4d are different lengths) 20020-RNR40 is the nismo stainless frontpipe to suit the ER34