Moodles2

Watch the torque split gauge for activity, ATTESSA can feel like a rubber band effect when little bits of torque in quick spurts are sent to the front wheel when it thinks there is traction loss. Even try driving around with the 4WD fuse pulled to see if it still happens.

GTT doesn't have a front diff, unless you've done a 4WD conversion. The above quote is from the R32 GTR service manual, gearbox fluid capacity is very hit and miss, GTR boxes seem to take the full 4.1l, but non-GTR boxes can be anything from 2.x litres to 3.x litres

R32 or R33 ecu?

White is Japan's national racing color, so I wouldn't be suprised if there were alot of white ones floating about.

As far as I can tell, the only difference between the two, is the Selby swaybars are finished in charcoal and Whiteline in silver.. do either make a better product than their counterpart? I've read Whiteline swaybars are solid tubing, so I'm guessing Selby is the same, compared to say Cusco whose swaybars are hollow.

Did you use the shims that came with the pads (if they came with them), or used your existing shims and used copper grease on the shims? Lack of shims can explain the noise

Only see some slight issues, the un-used port on the solenoid needs to be facing down (doubt it's causing your problems though). Is the solenoid close to any heat sources (turbos, either manifold, intercooler etc) ? edit: just read my manual, originally said un-unused port facing up, it's actually facing down

ARC make one, but it's probably the most expensive option

Using something like this, it will: http://www.cazracing.com.au/catalog/produc...products_id=101

Cigarette lighter is a popular source for power for boost controllers, gauges etc. Could be something wired badly leeching power or from that source

Not a fan of Nismo or aftermarket rad caps that bring the pressure up to 1.3kg/cm2, just puts more strain on the hoses, increasing risk of them popping them off for afew extra degrees before the coolant boils.

Using the G clamp method, can you do it with the calipers still attached, or do they need to be unbolted?

Got before and after shots by any chance?

Before going with into coilpacks, worth checking the usual, gap the plugs to 0.8mm, problem persists go with a new set of copper plugs and gap them down to 0.8mm, check existing coilpacks for cracks etc

I had a absolute nightmare with my MSIBC initially, worked for 5 minutes on the dyno and the solenoid just stopped responding to the controller, and was given the syringe test as well.

I didn't know about the sidewall height was a percentage, but yeah the poster after me is correct. The mix of 235's and 255's is the most likely cause of the ATTESSA issues, it might even just be something simple as mismatched tyre pressures front and rear. Even though the rolling diameter difference is marginal, it's enough give issues as ATTESA expects the same rolling diameter all around. From http://www.1010tires.com/TireSizeCalculator.asp: I have 225/50/R16 front and rear, front are new and rear were very 2nd hand and I had front torque issues just because of the difference of tread between the newies and the 2nd handers.

The ATTESSA ECU in the boot has a red light that flashes when the 4WD dash light is on underneath the ATTESSA ecu itself, can get the error code from the it. Didn't know you had engine light flashing yesterday otherwise i would have lent you my laptop + consult cable to get the error code(s) from the ECU. If you live up north you can grab it from me. Idle hunting is usually loose intercooler piping, but since it's a N/A, AFM or IAC might need cleaning or it's related to the engine dash light somehow.

^^ both are narrowband

Not familiar with the IBC, i run a MSIBC myself, does the IBC have the option of open or closed loop boost control?

Best was only 1:27, didn't really get a chance to put out a decent lap on the new QFM A1RM pads i put in after lunch, the shitty QFM HPX pads gave me no confidence at all while braking, was so focused on braking with the HPX pads I wasn't able to use the cones at all. Though in the future I'll try and remember where the initial turn in cones were

I'll get some G Clamps I suppose, never thought of using them before, been using a shitty $9.95 piston spreader that is difficult to use

O2 sensors can be tricky, but as long as you know the R32 ECU is designed to use titania based o2 sensors, and R33/R34 use zirconia based o2 sensors. If you have a look at: http://members.pcug.org.au/~jdeakins/facts.html there are cheaper alternatives from NTK you can use as long as you reuse the plug from the old o2 sensors.

Are you using 235/40/R17 at the front, and 255/40/R17 at the rear? As long as the profile (used to determine rolling diameter) is the same (which I used 40 in this case, would keep the speedo accurate at least), ATTESSA shouldn't be putting power to the front, the different widths shouldn't be an issue though understeer wise you should have the same width all around... GTRs have natural understeer, which is made worse less with narrower tyres at the front. Are the wheels staggered offset (front are different than the rear) by any chance? Which set of tyres are newer? because the difference in tread can alter the rolling diameter and make the ATTESSA system think the rears have lost traction. As a precaution I recommend pulling the 4WD fuse until the torque split issue is fixed (only do this with R32 GTRs), ATTESSA was never designed to transfer power full time, it could overheat the clutch packs in the transfer case.

Sealed batteries don't require the breather hose