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Moodles2

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  1. The Tomei website lists the BNR32/33 stock dump pipes as 58mm, and BNR34 as 55mm: http://www.tomeiusa.com/recentmail.asp?mid=106 Confuses the subject alittle, as I assumed the stock R32 dump pipes were 50mm because that's what the stock front pipes inlet's (internal diameter) i measured were.
  2. I've got my Earl's 19 oil cooler in the passenger side there, but having trouble finding a vent for my inner guard to vent the hot air. I understand the GTS-T passenger inner guards have the rear vent for the sidemount intercoolers, will I be able to use the inner guard on my R32 GTR, or will I have to cut the vent out and rivet it to my stock inner guard?
  3. After a pair of R34 GTR dumps
  4. Perhaps you have a leak between flanges, like between the cat <-> catback, or front pipe <-> cat.. or it's possible the the flexi-pipe on the front pipe is leaking
  5. AWD sumps are different to RWD sumps
  6. If you have the series that has the standalone ignitor (ie. not the coilpacks that have ignitors built in), the ignitor could be faulty.
  7. If the manifold has to come off (gtr manifold is approx a 4hr job), might be worth changing the inlet manifold gasket to metal one (the paper gasket have a habit of cracking from old age + higher than stock boost). If it's a heater hose behind the engine, it might be a engineout job.
  8. If series 2 have a Ignitor module, it could be faulty (play up when hot).
  9. Oil change before track day, and then maybe do 2500km max on that oil daily driving before I change it or earlier if i've gone to another track day.
  10. I've read people have had alot of success with the D4/G2 brake kits in their Skylines.
  11. Do you still have the stock pump as far as you know? it could be explained by a 20 year old fuel pump, sometimes it's the wiring, though usually it takes a new pump to expose the wirings in-ability to supply more than 11 amps (I think thats what the stock pump draws max)
  12. Measure the voltage across the terminals with everything off, measure the voltage drop when you try to start it, and once it is started measure the voltage across the terminals again. Might need a new battery (or check the levels if its a lead acid), alternator rebrushed, or find the power drain (boot light etc).
  13. Is the CAS plugged in?
  14. Most radiator guides only refocus air above the radiator, will a full sized rad guide help at all with getting more air onto the exhaust manifold etc?
  15. Worst thing you can do, is roundoff those rusty old nuts and bolts that are holding the current pipes on.
  16. Just grab a bunch of genuine items from a dealership and change them whenever you do a oil change.
  17. Does the pedal sink all the way towards the firewall when it stalls, or does it stay consistant? Might be worth looking through the workshop manual, even the R32 one in the Brake diagnostic section.
  18. With R32 GTR's if one headlight is working and one isn't; it's almost always the headlight switch in the cabin that's at fault ($200 genuine item from nissan), maybe R33 is the same.
  19. How long has this been going on for?
  20. Ideally you don't want spacers on there, but you will most likely need to get your guards rolled depending how wide you want to go on the front and rear. Great tool, to work out how different offsets will affect inner clearance and the outside clearance. http://www.1010tires.com/WheelOffsetCalculator.asp
  21. Just picked up a set of 17x9s so don't need wheels anymore
  22. N1's were basic kit needed for teams to use them in racing, first things they probably did was dump the brakes for better ones.
  23. The non-gtr sumitomo's take a 30mm rotor, workshop manual I think specifies they replaced once they're worn to 28mm. Only way to know for sure if they will popup is be a guinea cop
  24. I did a 180 accelerating on the ripple strip that exits onto pit straight
  25. R32 GTR stock injectors have a yellow top (444cc), I'll assume R33 GTR stock injectors are the same.
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