Moodles2

it will sit on 0 because it's vented to the atmosphere, 0mmHG is 1 atmosphere

Shockproof got rid of my high rpm 4th gear crunch completely

After a set of either 17s or 18s that at least 9" wide, (prefer the same all around, but 9" wide at the front and 9.5" or 10" wide at the rear in ok too) in GTR offset. Cheaper the better. PM.

Motul Turbolight 4100 (10w40) is by far the most popular, or a cheap full-synth like Castrol Edge or the Nulon 10w40 full-synth.. 0-10 is the ideal cold rating (15 is starting to get too thick), 40 is the ideal hot rating (50 for a older engine): have a read through "The Goods on Oil": http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Go...ils-t22458.html

I've seen 250kw can be made with stock turbos at 1 bar & cam gears with an agressive tune. I only recommend Nistune is because it's a cheaper solution, it's a daughterboard that is installed inside the stock ECU which unlocks realtime tuning. You could sell the PFC and the money you got from selling it can go towards getting Nistune installed and dyno tuned and still have some money left over for others things like cam gears etc.

No other choices than the above 3 (I'd probably chooce Shell or Havoline, hate lowspec Castrol oil)? If 25w-60 and 15w40 are the only options, then 15w-40 I would choose, 25w is just too thick when cold.

5w-30 will protect better when cold, but depending on the condition on the motor the hot rating might be too thin, you'll only know you have blowby issues is by going ahead and trying it.

15 is too thick a cold rating, 5w-40 is perfect.

I had same problem, new A1RM's up front lasted 80mins with the big UAS GTR brake air deflectors: (more details: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Pr...&p=4903262# ). This is what jetpilot had to say on the issue: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/-t...t&p=4909159

I know my R32 GTR stock turbo's wastegate actuators are set for 10psi, 0.68bar = 9.9psi. With the restrictor removed, you should be seeing 1 bar with the factory boost controller, if you want more you are going to need to get a manual boost controller or a electronic boost controller. To get 330-350hp is fairly easy, just get that PFC tuned and you'll make 350hp with 18psi or less with those N1 turbos (might even get away with using the stock ECU at those kinda power levels, personally I would sell the PFC and go Nistune). Stock Injectors are good for 375hp+. I would recommend a hi flow cat. Dump the FPR, only put it on when your injectors are maxed out.

~13.2psi (700mmHG) through a cold engine, there's the problem. Nissan ECUs tend to try to protect the engine while warming up.

What oil do you use in your RB20 and does thicker oil help reduce the blowby? 10w50, 20w50, 10w60, 20w60 etc

rb26 is 4.6l (0.5l of that is filter), rb25 is similar. Check the drivetrain forum transmission oil sticky

No mods, or supporting mods were mentioned, just assumed you had a stock pump. I'd be checking for error codes/sensor failures. AFMs dry solder might have deteriorated on one of them. Should be able to disconnect the bleed valve, and hook up a air compressor in it's place (wastegate source).. Even with all the intake piping in the way should be able to get a view of both wastegate actuator rods moving at whatever PSI the actuators are set to. Do you have HKS style split dumps? The wastegate flap could be fouling on it if so.

Try putting the dipstick in upsidedown, see if it still pops out

Could possibly be the fuel pump if it's the standard one.

The RB26 ones are part number 16600-RRR60 (purple), never heard of black Nismo injectors before.

Change the gearbox fluid, might be as simple as that.

Nismo S-Tune coilovers left on medium damper setting, would have changed to hardest setting but I don't have the tool to easily change the rears.. need to take boot trim apart to attack it with pliers

Looks like I'm getting some body roll in the pictures while im turning into corners, think it's worth upgrading from the factory swaybars to cusco/whiteline ones?

If you've upgraded from the factory swaybars to whiteline/cusco swaybars, did it make a noticable difference with your R32 GTR at the track?

Do R32 GTRs come with factory sway bars front and rear?

Sporting Car Club of SA (who I've been with) is $40 per year for an Associate membership (under 28s), I hear SAU is the same but for any age?

If you don't mind me asking, what fluid were you running in the transfer case, Genuine Matic D, Transmax Z etc ?

Possible there's a split somewhere on the breather hoses at the rear of the engine, especially on the turbo side