Moodles2

aftermarket jap gear is always pretty good, check out your local jap wreckers they will have buckets and buckets of them I would guess

The R34 GT-T sidemount intercooler is alot more efficient than the R33's, it's a decent upgrade if you want to stick with a sidemount.

stock o2 sensor is narrowband, 0-1v.. only useful to know if the engine is running lean/rich, but not by how much, which is where an exhaust tip mounted wideband comes in handy.. no need to have it connected to an ecu yet, download the Nistune software (enter "trial" in the username and registration boxes but wait until you've installed the rom pack first.. trial only works once) and the ROM pack (will have the basemap you want) for yourself and have a mess around with the fuel maps etc and then ask yourself, do you really feel comfortable about tuning the car yourself.

Well supports most if not all widebands, but not as a O2 sensor source, though you can get wideband sensors that have both the wiring for narrow and wideband voltage ranges.

All these mods on a stock R33 ECU hilarius

Each car is different when it comes to idle TPS voltage, mine is exactly 0.46v at idle

I was thinking as well, your AFM just might need a clean, a dirty AFM could report incorrect air flow into the engine. Check DIY for how to clean a AFM properly

Who told you that you needed a wideband sensor? Whoever told you that ignore any future advice from them, wideband sensors are used by workshops to tune cars on the dyno where they attach it to the end of your exhaust. Windband sensors have a range between 0v to 5v, Narrowband O2 sensors have a range of 0v to 1v.. even if you did put a windeband sensor in the place of the narrowband sensor, the ECU just isnt setup to deal with 0v-5v wideband range.

Only way to adjust the fuel ratio is with a SAFC, but If you don't know what your doing you will most likely cause more harm than good with it. Better off with Nistune (either use a R32 ecu + nistune or a Z32 ecu + nistune to keep the VCT) and taking it to a workshop to dyno tune it.

What's the compression like across the cylinders? What turbos and how much PSI are you putting through them? Got cam gears, and what are they set to?

If you ever read electric and supercharger in the same sentance, assume scam.

I think Nistune (well Z32 ecu + Nistune to keep VCT) is the better and cheaper option.

Drain the transfer case asap, transfer case fluid is ATF fluid and shockproof is gear oil.. i dunno what that shockproof + ATF (Matic D) would do to your transfer case's clutch packs.

Probably a Japan-only thing, much colder climate, harder to start I'm guessing.

depends on the milage and health of the engine, a tired engine with blowby issues, -50 or -60 which is the hot rating. A healthy engine -40 is the way to go, the 0w40 will protect better when cold than the 10w40, but Turbolight only comes in 10w40 (still nothing wrong with it 10w still protects very good when cold).

It's possible the Cam Angle Sensor is making the noise because it isn't perfectly flush against the timing cover, or the timing cover itself isnt flush against the backing plate throwing off the CAS.. it's also possible the screws that hold the CAS in place might be nicking or coming very close to the slider bolts (hard to tell without a clear cover) on the exhaust cam gear causing a resonance noise.

Try the Queensland section as well for recommended workshops

Might have a boost leak, could explain the lower reading

One has a inbuilt ignitor, the other doesn't. I'm not sure which is what though.

^ the way to go I think, and also get the tuner to set the AFM correction to factor in the Z32 afm

Are you sure your tuner is recommending driving to his shop with a Z32 ecu that has a stock basemap to run a V6 of 2l/3l (VG20 or VG30, I don't know 300zx's at all) with a inline 6 2.5l (rb25det)?

ECU pulls current speed from the wheel speed sensors, not the gearbox.. dash gets it from the gearbox. That's what I'm sure of anyway.

Gizzmo MS-IBC uses the same solenoid the AEM kit does.

Is the tuner going to install the Nistune daughterboard, or will you be driving there with it already installed? In my opinion it's dangerous to drive it to the tuner, unless you've set in the Nistune software to factor into the Z32 AFM. I'm pretty sure it's the other way around, the Z32 AFM without the AFM correction, the engine will run super lean. Don't hold me to it, but I'm fairly sure auto/manual doesn't matter as you'll be loading the R33 GTS-T basemap into it anyway.