Moodles2

How much meat left on the front left pads?

Look at the level when cold (ie. wait at least 10 minutes after shutting engine off). Sure it's not an oil pressure warning? because if it is you definitely do not want to ignore that edit: If it is indeed oil pressure, I'd hate to say, but you may haee brought yourself a lemon.

I contacted the Australian distributor of Motul recently about my R32 GTR and using 8100 X-Cess (100% synthetic) at the track. Basically said 130c is safe but not for prolonged periods of time. Tuners are correct, above 120 you want to back off. Typical Australian performance cars, can't handle the conditions of the country they were built in. What oil do HSV+FPR recommend? 150c would be hilarius recommendation from that HSV dealer if they're running on shitty oil like magnatec, GTX etc.

Does it sit perfectly on 0? If so the it probably doesn't have a vacuum source connected up especially if it has a A/M gauge or a electronic boost control. If the needle stays down with the engine on, either the gauge cluster is buggered or the map sensor (the black box mentioned above, on the firewall on the drivers side) is buggered

Definitely worth it, will extend life of rotors and pads, and help prevent the brake fluid boiling.. nothing worse than going off the track when the brake pedal is pressed to the firewall.

Do you plan on running your RB25 on 4 cylinders?

Don't hold me to this, but I think I've read valves can be replaced without taking the head off.. though it might be a engine out job.

I got my Sard 700's from Greenline.jp, worked out to something like $760 delivered 6 months ago.. i think RHDJapan.com is even cheaper delivered for Sard injectors. The only difference between the 600cc and 700cc injectors really, is that the bigger injectors will make it harder to get the idle right but a good tuner can easily overcome this.

deleted: sorry thats clutch

Water expands when it gets hot, if it's at the max mark while cold, it's not suprising some is flowing out the overflow

Nismo 555cc bolt straight into stock fuel rail as far as I know (Nismo also make 740cc injector that's also a direct fit but overkill for your application). GTR injectors are top feed (not to mention low impedence), RB25 takes side feed injectors. You would have to convert to a top feed fuel rail (would open up alot of top feed options), but someone else will have to answer if it's feasable to do or possible at all without alot of messing around.

When you fill up the coolant resouvior tank, are you filling to the indicated max line when cold, or filling halfway (between min & max) or lower?

R33 S2 what? GTS-T injectors are 370cc. If GTR, the stock injectors (444cc) are good for up to about 280kw. If GTS-T, Nismo 555cc injectors are probably the way to go, they are direct fit on. There are other cheaper options like Sard have to mess with collars etc There are some 2nd hand options like the S15 SR20 injectors are 480cc, I'm sure there's others

Samco sell all kids of different colored silicon hose (heck even pink), justjap.com has red chinese hose kits but don't know if they have a set to suit your car.

5w50 is just the cold/hot rating.. is it a full synthetic or semi-synth?

Not necessarily, though helps to have the car on the dyno and adjusting them there and then to see if the adjustments made any difference or made things worse.

Keep the stock cooler, pretty sure the ATCC spec GTR from the early 90s was putting out 600hp+ with the stock GTR cooler.

Only restriction I can see in the exhaust would be the cat (noticed you haven't listed it), 300awkw will be easy with the -5s even if the cam gears are dialed in low/mid response.. but how many psi to run through the turbo to achieve that, not sure. I think at 20psi your setup would make 350awkw, with cams this would bring it up to 400+.

Anyone know the ID of the R34 dumps?

Best asked in the victorian section.

Early R32 GTRs had a small oil drive on the crank and needed crank collars, late R32 GTR's (94s did, not sure when 93's started getting it) got the same crank as the R33 GTR (with the bigger oil drive and no longer needed collars)

Depends how much you want to spend, the Walbro GSS-342 (I think it's the right part number) is the cheapest from Slide (forum sponsor here) at $155-$165 delivered, check the Slide and other forum sponsors for Bosch 040 pump (DIY guide for it's install in the DIY section), they're about $190 delivered. Just don't get suckered into buying one of those Walbro or Bosch chinese copies off ebay etc.

It's possible the wiring (whether it's a weak ground, or can't supply the amps) isn't up to the task of powering the pump (when tank gets lower I think the pump has to work harder), a rewire might solve the problem. If you do run a 2nd pump, the best pump to use inline with the surge tank is the probably Bosch 040.

Oil temp should ideally sit between 75-90c, when you really push it, it can go over 100c easily depending what you're doing (hill climb, track work etc). As for oil pressure:

WTB 17x9, 17x9.5 or 17x10 rims all 4 corners the same. PM me with what you have.