Moodles2

WTB: pair of -9 or HKS GT-SS turbos, PM please.

After a pair of -9 or HKS GT-SS turbos, newer the better.

1. Could be a hydralic lifter 2. I've read a faulty coolant temperature sensor or loose TPS or dirty/faulty AFM can cause similiar problems you mention. 3. Belt could have skipped a tooth, if the noisy belt was a Gates belt it's quite normal for them to make afair bit of noise. 4. Lapstone Hill is a race track? Sounds to me like a pretty bad boost leak, as for heat affecting it, I would say it's quite normal for the stock sidemount intercooler, they heatsoak up easily.

What car, if its a 89-94, it's likely it takes R12 gas, I believe there is a universal gas that can go in it but is not as cold as old-school R12 (the current gas, R143a or R134a isnt compatible in R12 systems). I would guess the seals would have long dried and might need replacing.. if it's just a straight regas looking at about $100 (assuming the compressor still works)

Find someone with a wideband oxygen sensor and check your AFRs, especially 14psi and beyond

Best value for money, I would probably say. Dump/front pipe: JJR 3" bellmouth dump/front pipe (mild $179 or stainless steel $199) - http://justjap.com/store/product.php?produ...=276&page=1 or http://justjap.com/store/product.php?produ...=276&page=1 Cat converter: Catco 3" hiflow cat $175 - http://justjap.com/store/product.php?produ...=275&page=1 Catback: head to a bunch of different wreckers, im not sure how much 2nd hand catbacks from jap wreckers cost, but I think they are the way to go as nothing beats the sound of a genuine jap catback (apexi, hks etc). JJR/X-Force catbacks start from about $600, I think noise wise and cost wise to go with a 2nd hander. XForce do make a complete turboback for the R33 GTS-T, but have no idea what it costs (nor sounds like): http://www.xforce.com.au/cars/view_car/3 edit: $1450 it seems on the UAS website

Shell say their fuel doesn't go stale for 6 months (if i remember it might), could be stale fuel, or maybe the oil has sludged up

1 bar (14.7psi) is the most you want to run safely through ceramic turbos in bursts (ie. not at the track), the stock ceramic turbos are just handgrenades waiting to happen and can take an engine with them with ceramic dust. Never used a jap boost controller, but you want to modify the duty cycle option slightly (leave gain alone as it's already tuned).

Depends, do you mean 1kg/cm2 by the stock gauge, or do you have a aftermarket oil pressure gauge that reads in bar? You'll have to do some converting to bar with this chart:

How long hasn't it been driving, fuel might have gone stale

Dump the castrol magnatech for a better semi-synth, something in the $30 range like Pennzoil, Penrite etc. Motul Turbolight 4100 10w-40 is probably the most popular with street driven skyline owners. Nissan specify their Matic D for auto gerboxes and powersteering, using Dexron 3 in the powersteering is fine, in the autobox you want the genuine fluid or something that meets Matic D specs. If you're willing to change them every 5,000-10,000 km, NGK copper plugs are the way to go, gapped down to 0.8mm (done most of the time with turbo models to avoid missfiring), otherwise go with iridiums/platinums. Other than that the engine & gearbox shouldn't really give you problems for awhile, for peace of mind it might be worth doing a 100,000km service (timing belt, water pump, idler & tensioner pulley, cam oil seals etc) if the service history is unknown (especially when the previous owner put magnashyte in)

What kinda exhaust, starting from the turbo back, or from the cat back?

How wide were your tyres to need some DIY guard rolling?

Cheapest option is probably the yellow jacket coils, check the forum sponsors

Not familiar at all with RB30s so this might not be any help at all to you, dodgy ignitor modules malfunction when they get hot, though usually it results in misfiring, might be worth also finding a better ground for the ignitors ground wire.

80-94c is healthy range for a RB26, NEO run alittle hotter.. though you want to keep coolant temperature under 100c

yep cover the gasket areas, throttle body & vac lines and double check the lines to the carbon canister, ive found the hoses to mine have blown themselves off the canister

With my R32 GTR, when I pull my 4WD fuse, my ABS and 4WD warning lights light up. Do you know if the fuse is in place to power the ABS?

carb cleaner works too, has alcohol in it. genuine nissan paper gasket costs about the same as a aftermarket metal gasket, rb26 metal inlet manifold gasket are about $70-$90

Spray some brake cleaner or aerostart around the inlet manifold, focus on the inlet manifold gasket areas and see if the engine responses. If you get a response you have a inlet manifold leak

Try putting the ECU into base idle mode and adjust the idle rpm again and its worth trying brake cleaner/aerostart around the inlet manifold gasket to search for a inlet manifold leak.

Nistune Rom Pack probably has it

A melted/blocked up cat might explain the turbo lag and oil high temperatures (if the turbo is oil cooled). Also skyline water temperature clusters are really vague, the dial will indicate halfway but in reality it could be 100c+ without a consult program or a consult LCD (see ecutalk.com) to tell you what the temperature actually is. Factory oil cooler uses coolant to to cool the engine oil down (or warm it up), so keeping the water temperature down is a must (radiator guides, redline water wetter etc) As for understeer, lots of different things you can do; play with tyre pressures front and rear, wider tyres up front, if you have coilovers, soften up the front damper setting alittle, while stiffening the rear damper setting alittle, adjustable swaybars. Was the oil changed the day before the track day or had you already done a fair ammount of street kilometers on it? Exposed pods are useless on the track, shielding it is necessary, stock airboxes are preferred, CAI will help, every little bit helps. 130c is a good point to backoff, temperatures are quite normal for a street car without a oil cooler.

Might have an active LSD, was an option for R33 GTS-T's: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/R3...or-t268134.html

The normal Royal Purple has been mentioned to be a Group IV (full synthetic), the XPR is a Group V (100% full synth double ester like Motul 300V).