Moodles2

I've seen another thread on here somewhere, Nissan want I think it was $300 for a new "Pollen" filter (the price supposedly because its been treated with charcoal).

Lights, stereo etc are all powered by the alternator when the car is running, so I think it is that.

Simplest possible answer, its most likely a cat did piss down your windscreen or something and it went into the vents that the incabin system uses to draw air in.

Written off VN commodore with lpg equipment, just want to get rid of the piece of crap asap

Actually you are completely right, I only had 13hrs sleep over the past 3 days... I think what I meant to say was its alittle big for the rim, sidewall wouldnt be as strong as the one on the 9" rim which would give slight difference to overall diameter... Bees dick does make a difference with ATTESSA, I had Potenza G3's 225/50/R16's all around on my 32 GTR stockies and tore up my fronts at the track (if anyone remembers the private track day, I even considered running that tyre in reverse rotation... for about 30 seconds), I had Kumho KU36's on to replace those front ones in the exact same profile while keeping my rear G3's (tyre place only had 1 pair, and I couldn't drive around with outright defectable front tyres). The rears still have about 50% tread left... but the tread difference alone is enough to make my ATTESSA put power to the front wheels 24/7 (even if its just alittle bit)

^ +1, 255 is a huge stretch on a 8.5" inch wheel imo unless the tyre is a semi slick... i havent done any calculations, but i estimate the rolling diameter difference to be anything from 0.25% to 1.5%

You know that black box in the enginebay on the firewall on the drivers side, thats the MAP sensor that feeds the triple gauge boost reading, I tee'd in there as the pressure source for the PSI reading. You can tee off at the FPR directly, it will technically be less laggy than tee'ing into what I used. The stock MAP sensor gets pressure reading from the FPR anyway, it just enters the balance tube first, and a hose comes out the other end to it, then connects to that black box. With the engine pressure source (stock one is the bled source), I can't remember if mine is before or after the throttle bodies.

How many degrees is 2 teeth?

Sticker is a 100,000km reminder, if it doesn't have kilometres or some sort of date etched/scratched/written onto it (some japanese go by their imperial calender), then it's a good indicator the belt hasn't been done. Or the sticker could have been put on it when the belt was changed, when you buy a genuine Nissan timing belt, you get a silver sticker with it, to stick on somewhere and write the km/s done when it was changed.

With the EBC, you can use the existing wastegate actuator hose that goes to the stock boost controller, but you can't use the manifold pressure source the factory hose uses as it's from an already bled location at the rear near the clutch, need a new hose ran from the intake manifold to the EBC (and the bled source one blanked off). It's how Boostworx did the piping to my Gizzmo MS-IBC's actuator.

Skyline ECUs are fairly efficient at making power (a touch on the rich side). But it's a N/A engine with turbocharger-like compression, unfortunately all you can do is supporting mods, high flow panel filter, exhaust, cold air intake etc for small gains. unfortunately you can't just magically pull power out of your hat, unless you go forced-induction. I've looked into these magic chips in the past when I owned a commodore, I concluded they are just resistors to make the engine think it's running colder than it actually is, permanently making your engine run alot hotter than it was designed for.

I've got a set of R32 GTR stockies (been lazy and left my track wheels on), I'm not using (+30 16x8 225/50/R16's, one set has questionable tread left)

I think the transmission control might be for auto boxes

What kinda specs on those pads? might just be crap when cold

Did you put the ECU into base idle mode when doing the rpm adjustments?

Possible they are tensioned too high, might just go away over time when the rubber expands like with timing belts

0w-40 or 5w-40 are preferential in my opinion, though 10w40 is ideal for summer. Sin15 is fine though, 15 is a a much better cold rating than 25. The smoke might simply be solved with a oil catch can, if blowby is recirculating lots of oil through the breathers

^ Great if you live in QLD, anywhere else no

http://www.fsport.com.au/fsport_siteroot/home.html

Code 13 is coolant termperature sensor, Code 43 is TPS (throttle position sensor)

Although the rolling diameter difference is 0.24%, to put it into perspective I get ATTESSA problems when I have new 225/50/R16s at the front, and well worn 225/50/R16s at the rear. Will you have ATTESSA problems, I would say it's a 50:50, and things will only get worse as the tyres wear down. And to make things worse narrow tyres at the front will just make the understeer worse

R32 GTR Nissan service specifies 121psi is the bottom limit for RB26 cylinder compression, RB20 would be close by but not sure of the exact figure. It could just be the oil you are using (never heard of Lubrimaxx before) or the oil + oil additive combo. What weight is the oil anyway?

TPS aka throttle position sensor needs to be calibrated, every car is different. With no throttle Nissan TPS' register around the 0.5v mark (im guessing yours is 0.537v, mine is 0.46v) when off throttle and anywhere from 3-5v volts (mines 3.7v or 4.7v ive forgotten) with wide open throttle.

Sounds like HDi only checked the gauge was working, not that it was calibrated. Really need an aircompressor set to 9psi supplying air through a hose to the HDi gauge to prove its calibration is way off.