Moodles2

Dexron III is just a specification, Transmax Z meets the Dexron III specification amongst others.. transmax is fully synthetic, The Castrol Dexron III fluid is most likely just some cheap shitty mineral or semi synth fluid.

All R32's the MBC flexes, the ones that have hit the track alot or used in the mountains will tend to have the most flex, I put a Cusco Master Brake Stopper on my R32 GTR and it did wonders for the pedal travel (alot less before engagement point)

Isn't Chrono abit extreme for the OP (roughly no more than 200kw with the mods listed), I'd probably recommend it for 300kw, but for a engine putting out approx 200kw a very good semi synth or a full synth (like Motul 8100) will do imo. What's the story with full synthetics, is it true they don't protect all that well after a fresh oil change, takes about 1000km before they're fully effective?

Just Jap have told me they run a ceramic Catco in one of their 300awkw GTRs.. Just don't get Metal Cat confused with other companies "metalcats", Metal Cat is a Australia company that makes cats with metal castrates, The X-Force cat (copy of Metal Cat's cat) with the metal castrate isn't EPA approved (none of their cats are, its just X-Force trying to cash in on the metalcat name).

Nothing wrong with the JJR cam gears, just switch out the hex bolts for hi-tensile versions for peace of mind.

GTR by any chance? Might be the ATTESSA acing up because of the different width rims front and rear

TweakIt have braided clutch lines if thats what your after: http://www.tweakit.net/shop/product_info.p...e6kk70ua0nj6kl2

I'm not sure what struts are, could be Nismo S-Tune coilovers?

Open up the air bleeder (near the pressure regulator), turn the heater to max hot and jack the front up so the radiator is the highest point again. And are you using a fan shroud on the radiator?

It's quite illegal to vent refrigeration gas to the atmosphere (can lose your refrigeration license if caught doing it), and does alot of damage when exposed to the atmosphere (depletes the ozone layer)..

Just make sure you get it properly de-gassed instead of venting it to the atmosphere. Personally I wouldn't mess about taking a working aircon apart, I believe compressor/condenser rebuild kits aren't readily available and I don't want to know how much a genuine replacement part costs (condenser, compressor, seals etc), I'd be most worried about the innards of the aircon bits being exposed to atmosphere and internally drying out... heck I remember being quoted over 1k to get the aircon working in my pulsar (previous owner was a hippie who never used the aircon, thus it never got a chance to self-lubricate itself)

Is there any details on the course that is after the one we did, the track one? or is it still being organized

Should be fine as long as the belts are still there, usually squeek when theyre getting old just a wear indicator

Really need a consult device plugged in, should be getting about 1v at idle on each AFM.. I can't see O2 sensors as the culprit, as the ECU runs closed loop while the engine is warming up. Could be a intake manifold leak, If you have a spray that is alcohol based like brake cleaner or aerostart (WD40 should be suitable too) just spray it around the throttle body gaskets and the intake manifold gasket, if the engine responds then you've got a leak there. How long have you had the car? and when did this start happening, was it something you did mechanically or someone that developed on its own?

There's something I always hate, having to topup unknown existing coolant risking a reaction between the 2. The best you can do is Genuine Nissan Long-Life Coolant (LLC), from a Nissan dealership. 1 litre of concentrate cost $10-$15 and makes 2-3litres (depending on a 50:50 or 66:33 mix of water:concentrate). The cheaper option is Nulon concentrate that meats the Nissan specification (Nissan LLC I think is the technical name)

Boostworx installed my oil cooler for me (custom job), I provided a 2nd hand R34 drivers side GT-T kit I got pretty cheap (all earl's fittings and hose, 19row earls core and earl's filter relocator), a inline B&M thermostat and some extra speedflow fittings + hose for the thermostat. Shaun ordered some extra -10 braided hose and speedflow fittings (much cheaper than I could get them from Outlaw Speedshop) to facilitate running it from the passenger side (can't run on the drivers side because of the stock twin bov's). If I had to do this again, I would choose the core I wanted, and relocator (with or without thermo instead is a better choice than using a inline thermostat because of the need for expensive speedflow bits to suit the inline jobbie), and just leave it up to Shaun to work out which fittings and how much hose he needs to mount it wherever, should work out alot cheaper and of higher quality than a jap kit (some of the higher tier kits just use Earl's bits anyway).

Out of the jap cam gears, do not get these new HKS cam gears, the old HKS ones on the other hand are well made. I'd say go for the OS Gilken cam gears, I've never read anyone having a problem with them.

Check all pipes, you might have blown a intercooler pipe off.

Just double check the ignitor has a good ground.

Off the top of my head: JJR have silicone replacements for the intercooler: http://justjap.com/store/product.php?produ...=323&page=1 (black aswell i believe) also hard pipe: http://justjap.com/store/product.php?produ...at=0&page=1 Samco do a silicone intake pipe: http://www.nengun.com/samco/silicon-intake-hose Trust kit (not sure if you need their intercooler to use this): http://www.nengun.com/trust-greddy/aluminu...take-piping-set Miscellaneous pipe kits on greenline.jp: http://www.greenline.jp/catalogue/bccatpar...p;subcat=Piping i think I've seen a kit with silicone joiners for the intake/turbo area but can't remember where.

Carrying more dead weight of unused disc braking area, disc might be too big that your cant clear your wheels etc. to name the first things that come to mind.

R32 GTRs have been known to blow the stock brake hoses off at the track, usually the master brake cylinder seal is the culprit, or the rubber seal on one of your calipers pistons has blown

I dunno why you would want to scrimp on the EBC, Gizzmo MS-IBC is simple and cheap which does the job (6 different boost settings you can't go wrong). Don't bother with a N1 pump (just search), the stock pump should be fine as long as you do keep it under 7500rpm, but in your situation I would go with a Nitto pump or a external wet sump oiling system (cost works out to be the about the same as a jap pump). If keeping your sump, I would put a jap baffle plate (Tomei, Nismo etc) or a similiar trap door baffle plate. I think I've read somewhere on here the stock sump can take half a litre or more of oil if the paint inside the sump is removed? Trust make a nice sump extension+modified oil picked+baffle plate kit, Hi Octane Racing do something similar: http://hioctaneracing.com.au/eshop/product...products_id=972 As for oil catch can I recommend either the Mine's type triple flow cam covers (if the mechanic is going to look at the head) or a autech type oil/air seperator, oil starvation is the RB's biggest enemy. If you still have the stock airbox, put a K&N high flow filter in there. I would go with -9's too.

Xforce just copy other companies, and none of the Xforce cats are actually EPA compliant, Xforce's own website says "for race use only"

with such vague description it's hard to say, could be worn ancillary belt, issue with the viscous radiator fan