Moodles2

A Z32 AFM has resolution up to 500PS, which is a max theoretical of 373kw (in the real world is more like 350kw). Whenever you play with the AFM (cleaning, resoldering etc), it's a good idea to reset the ECU (don't know how it's done with PFCs) so it forgets everything it's learnt so far and starts from scratch.

Did you reset the ECU? You need to disconnect the battery, and keep pumping the brake pedal to discharge what power is left in the system.

Regardless of price. Motul Chrono 300V (10w40) is the best possible oil for skylines. Trans and diff anything fully synthetic really, I like Redline gear oils for this purpose

First thing to do, check the connector to the AFM is firmly plugged in, if that doesnt solve it, then buy contact cleaner or MAF/AFM cleaner (please don't use brake cleaner!), take it off and give it a good clean. If it still problematic then it could be the dry solder inside the unit, it can be repaired though, search the DIY or General Maintenance section for the guide on how to resolder it (or take it to someone you know who can do basic soldering)... if that still fails, buy a AFM to replace it.

For that price, you could have gone with KU36's per corner for maybe alittle more (forum sponsors!)

If it's the coolant temp sensor, it tells the ECU when the engine is warmed up.. and since it's not reporting the coolant is warm, ECU assumes engine is still cold and it will run like crap.

About the BNR34 transfer case as well, the chain is physically smaller (less surface area) than the ones from the transfer cases of the previous models.

Check the NSW section for reputable workshops, don't just take it to the nearest shop that has a dyno. $500-$750 for a full tune roughly

So many variables, I've read X-Force cheat and don't attach a catback to the end of the cat when they test, to get those high values. Also Metalcat and Catco cats actually pass EPA emission tests, while X-Force and the other ripoffs don't.

When RB's run like shit when hot, it's usually either the ignitor module is on it's way out, or it has a bad/dirty ground

Vacuum leak definitely, check the black box on the firewall, the line to it is probably split at it, or at the other end, behind the balance tube. Though it won't explain the hard gearchange though.

Should do, cat size is pretty much the same for every skylines

If I recall correctly, RB25 NEO are high imp injectors? Typically they are 12ohms, so Volts (14) / Ohms (12) would mean they need 1.166 amps to operate. If you run low impedance injectors on a ECU that expects high impedance, has been known to fry an ECU in minutes. Tell us more about your ECU, injectors etc

Once you've decided on one you want. Get it checked out by a reputable workshop (check your State's reputable workshop sticky, each state has one on here) that has experience with Skylines, as you don't want to buy a GTR only to find the 4WD system is rooted, or the engine is in dire need of a rebuild, or one of the stock turbos are missing their ceramic exhaust wheel, or HICAS is screwed etc.

I think it's the CAS, try taking it off and checking if the key locator still freely spins. I know from experience if it's not absolutely perfectly flush when you put it back on you can ruin a CAS.

Oil pump service life? probably forever as long as the drive gear is in good condition and you keep the revs under 7k. Signs to look out for when an oil pump is on it's way out? Seized engine, or bits of engine (bearings etc) in the oil pan. Aftermarket oil pump? Looking at least $1200 for a decent pump (Nitto for example), and engine out job, means the engine has to be physically taken out which is pointless for a RB20.. Everything is severed, piping, hoses, wiring. However long it takes to take an RB out, and back in depends on the workshop, workshop rates are usually $100 per hour. How long do you think it would take? You may as well do a RB25 or RB26 engine swap honestly.

Just remember that the stock RB26 AFMs only have resolution up to 328kw (and then again, in the real world about 290-310kw max), those genuine OEM ones will do as you want (at a expensive price), plug straight in and nothing will need to be done tune-wise, except for maybe a ECU reset. If you ever want to go above that power level you will need Nismo AFMs or 80mm AFMs (Z32, RB25 etc) anyway. If you are willing to upgrade to 80mm piping, try a pair of 2nd hand RB25 AFMs, as a pair they support 400kw.

Check the hoses to the charcoal canistor (big black thing), one might be split or blown off.

oil pump is a engine out job, unless they are willing to drop the entire subframe and take the oil sump out (may as well put a sump baffle in while its out) either way it's going to be very expensive.. although $760 isnt bad if they are supplying all the parts, ridiculous if that's just the labour cost though.

Were they direct plugin O2 sensors (genuine Nissan, aftermarket etc), or did you have to re-wire the new sensors with the old plugs (possible that a heater and voltage reference wire were mixed)? Really strange behaviour, as you should see 0v until the engine is warmed as they're heated sensors (should be seeing 0v when theyre dead)

Short answer yes, retune needed.. but if you have Nistune you could just change the AFM in the Nistune software and it will do all the voltage corrections. AFM lesson, volt range 0v = no airflow, 1v = approx idling, 5v = maximum airflow the MAF can handle. The stock RB26 AFMs handle 440hp (absolute max) as a pair. While the Nismo AFMs handle 775 hp (again absolute max) as a pair. For the sake of argument, your stock AFMs are maxed out at 5v, which means your making up to 440hp, the ECU/current tune is mixing in the required fuel to make that power. If you put the Nismo AFMs in, and don't touch the tune, the engine will try to make that same power (440hp), but will only be reporting about 3-4v to the ECU, which the ECU is then mixing in the fuel to make about 200-300hp.. which means the engine will run super lean and destroy itself. My advice, get rid of that Mine's chip, Nistune it, and get a full proper tune. Z32's are cheaper, but they are a 80mm shell vs the stock/Nismo afm which is a 65mm shell. If you have pods, you will have to sell your current pods+elbows and buy 80mm compatible pods+elbows.. if you have the stock airbox, you'll have to get rid of it and go 80mm compatible pods+elbows.

Titania narrowband is 0v to 1v, Zirconia narrowband is 0.1v to 0.9v. I don't understand how a narrowband O2 sensor can give readings above 1v though. Can you confirm you have a PFC specifcally for a R32 GTR and are running Titania based sensors, and are both sensors reporting the same voltage, or is one showing normal range while the other is showing the wrong range (should have 2x O2 readings, the front and rear turbo)? Titania and Zirconia are electrically different too, is it possible you have aftermarket dumps and the previous owner put Zirconia O2 sensors in?

The harmonics of a straight 6 gets worse as the revs climb, I would imagine revving while stationary wouldn't be putting the load onto the crank you would normally get while driving. If I damaged my harmonic balancer in any way, personally I would have binned it and replaced it with a aftermarket balancer. The worse thing that can happen is the oil pump gear breaking in some way.

Was the balancer damaged when it was taken off (notice any cracking?)

I'm just going to use 444 cc injectors as an example (stock GTR injectors). 100% duty cycle means each injector is pushing 444 cc's of fuel per minute which is 26.64 litres per hour (0.0074 litres per second) each.. since you have 6 injectors times that by 6 and you have 159.84 litres per hour (0.0444 litres per second). I admit it's not exact but it's a good idea.